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Paint spraycan colour match please
#1
Does anyone have a clue as to what spraycan make/colour/code I can use for the factory black used to paint  the engine and alternator/clutch/sprocket covers etc. on 2000 FZS 600 - in other words, the best black colour match (satin/gloss - I'm not sure its matte but could be wrong) - ideally I'm looking for a simple solution such as Halfords, B&Q, or a brand name I can get in a motorfactors.

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#2
I used Plastikote Satin Black


http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,8354....l#msg82143
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#3
Great job mate - can I ask a question please - in your thread you summarise the restoration job and make reference to gunk, sandpaper, brushes ...  but can I tease out of you please more detail as I will attempt this on my bike:

1. Does the masking job cover underneath and front and back of bike - essentially what is the rationale in terms of what is covered off and what is not?
2. Are cables (clutch, throttle etc.) and pipes (vacuum,fuel etc.) removed before painting? also, hoses - some of them didnt appear masked off??
3. What are the detailed step by step procedures for prep and what specific material grades are used in each steps; what kind of brushes, paper, etc. and where was each applied?
4. Any priming needed? what type/make? where applied?
5. What is the method of applying paint , as typically one would move side to side , top down , but clearly I guess this method wont work here?
6. How many cans of spray and what size and specific make (plastikcote make several types of satin black paint - e.g. heat resistant, for plastics/vinyl etc.)

Appreciate your help with this as I have never done this before and truly appreciate your experience and detail response either here or as an addendum to your thread please??
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#4
Please don't use Halfrauds paint, they told me it was a satin finish!!!!. i've just done my engine & ended up have to go buy some more but ended up hand painting it & it looks quite crap.


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#5
That looks like primer on your engine?

Darrsi ... Could you please kindly respond to my questions above, to provide further guidance, thank you
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#6
Yep! But that's not what it said on the can,but hey ho! I will be re doing it soon so hopefully it will look better  :rolleyes :rolleyes :rolleyes

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#7
Any good paint suppliers will make up a spray match can for you. Yamaha colours are available. Do not touch halfords cans they are a waste of money and effort.
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#8
The guy that used plastikote had a good result but I guess a match color would be ideal as I'm not doing a full respray. Does the paint from 'any good paint supplier' not need to be the heat resistant high temp type otherwise it will simply flake off. In that case any good paint supplier won't do... It needs to be a special paint and this was the point of my question... Which paint and where from?
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#9
(30-08-14, 11:57 PM)MC680x0 link Wrote:Great job mate - can I ask a question please - in your thread you summarise the restoration job and make reference to gunk, sandpaper, brushes ...  but can I tease out of you please more detail as I will attempt this on my bike:

1. Does the masking job cover underneath and front and back of bike - essentially what is the rationale in terms of what is covered off and what is not?
2. Are cables (clutch, throttle etc.) and pipes (vacuum,fuel etc.) removed before painting? also, hoses - some of them didnt appear masked off??
3. What are the detailed step by step procedures for prep and what specific material grades are used in each steps; what kind of brushes, paper, etc. and where was each applied?
4. Any priming needed? what type/make? where applied?
5. What is the method of applying paint , as typically one would move side to side , top down , but clearly I guess this method wont work here?
6. How many cans of spray and what size and specific make (plastikcote make several types of satin black paint - e.g. heat resistant, for plastics/vinyl etc.)

Appreciate your help with this as I have never done this before and truly appreciate your experience and detail response either here or as an addendum to your thread please??


There's not really too much to add, i more or less covered everything in my post.


1) I covered what i didn't want sprayed.


2) Only thing removed were the silver parts, which were resprayed, everything else stayed put.
Hoses are black, why mask them?


3) Gunk was sprayed on everywhere, you need to be generous with it, then a brush was used to try and get into all the nooks and crannies.
Wet 'n' dry paper, and thinners were the main things used after the Gunk was washed off.
As i said in my post, i jet washed the bike beforehand and that's what blew a lot of old paint off, it wasn't intentional it just happened.


4) We never used a primer, but i must stress the degreasing part is a MUST.
I used to use an engine brightener spray which i presume had silicone in it, this caused all sorts of shit, like trying to spray on an oily surface.
If it bubbled up and went wrong, thinners were used to remove the spray and to thoroughly clean the area again.
When that kept failing, we used wet 'n' dry again, then thinners, etc.


5) Just light coats, mainly side to side i s'pose. Whatever way was necessary. Let each coat dry (it's quick drying) then repeat process until satisfied.


6) One can was all that was used, and after taking a photo of it just now, i'd guess there's still 25% left in it.


You have to remember this wasn't intended to be a pro job, the engine was looking a bit tatty, but it was the greying of the black paint that made it look horrible to me.
This was really intended as a quick fix to tart it up a bit, to make it look a bit more respectable and to put a bit of colour and life back into the engine, but in truthfulness i was pretty damn impressed with the outcome.
Even more so as it was pissing down with rain as we were doing it, and it was sprayed in limited space under a garage door.
It's not perfect by any means but it's A LOT better than it was.
And i also had the privilege of having my friend helping me who has got previous experience of spraying so obviously he was invaluable to me, especially when the paint bubbled up. (Thanks again Steve  :thumbup )
Even now, when we get bad stormy weather, i cover my spark plug area and HT leads in WD40, so from this experience i know that if i was ever going to do this again it would need a serious bit of degreasing before even considering applying paint.


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#10
Hi darrsi... That's great and I really appreciate your detailed response, thank you for taking the time to type that up as well as the image uploads and the spray can label. Brill! . By the way, the job to me anyway.. Looks pro and a really outstanding effort. Well done and I thank you once again
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#11
(31-08-14, 09:23 PM)chunk166 link Wrote:Please don't use Halfrauds paint, they told me it was a satin finish!!!!. i've just done my engine & ended up have to go buy some more but ended up hand painting it & it looks quite crap.


They shouldn't really have to tell you it has a satin finish, if it is it will say it on the can.
That's more like a battleship finish, but is fine as a primer anyway.  Wink


Are they water marks on your engine, or is that from oil contamination?
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#12
One more thing darrsi, please, is the paint sticking only I would have imagined that the high temps from running engines expands metal which causes paint to expand which when coooled will start to fall off? Just wondering
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#13
(01-09-14, 12:48 PM)MC680x0 link Wrote:One more thing darrsi, please, is the paint sticking only I would have imagined that the high temps from running engines expands metal which causes paint to expand which when coooled will start to fall off? Just wondering


Oh, didn't i mention, it all fell off?  :lol


14 months later and all is still well, my bike is used all year round and even with that monsoon season we had it still looks pretty good.
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#14
Okay.okay. was just asking
Well, thanks for coming back mate and if it's 14 months fine, then you've done a far better job than you give yourself credit for
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#15
(01-09-14, 11:12 AM)darrsi link Wrote:[quote author=chunk166 link=topic=14533.msg164527#msg164527 date=1409516632]
Please don't use Halfrauds paint, they told me it was a satin finish!!!!. i've just done my engine & ended up have to go buy some more but ended up hand painting it & it looks quite crap.


They shouldn't really have to tell you it has a satin finish, if it is it will say it on the can.
That's more like a battleship finish, but is fine as a primer anyway.  Wink


Are they water marks on your engine, or is that from oil contamination?
[/quote]


Its water drops,After it had dried i wheeled out so i could see it more!  :lol :lol :lol
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#16
Darrsi mate, just reading this again, what wet and dry grades did you use ?
Cheers.
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#17
No idea, i wouldn't have thought it really mattered if you look at my engine though, just anything that smooths paint out without scratching the hell out of metal.
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#18
(02-09-14, 09:26 PM)darrsi link Wrote: No idea, i wouldn't have thought it really mattered if you look at my engine though, just anything that smooths paint out without scratching the hell out of metal.

which is why I asked. I've got 80 at the rough end and 3000 at the smooth end , with lots of grades inbetween
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#19
(02-09-14, 09:30 PM)MC680x0 link Wrote: [quote author=darrsi link=topic=14533.msg164722#msg164722 date=1409689564]
No idea, i wouldn't have thought it really mattered if you look at my engine though, just anything that smooths paint out without scratching the hell out of metal.

which is why I asked. I've got 80 at the rough end and 3000 at the smooth end , with lots of grades inbetween
[/quote]


I'd try 1743 then.  :lol
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#20
I knew I shouldnt have asked  :b
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