Wanted: FZ1 (gen2) regulator / retifier

[b1k3rdude]

Evening

Bit of a shot in the dark but does anyone have an FZ1 2006 onwards regulator / rectifier knocking about?

ta

[unfazed]

I have to ask, why specifically a Shindengen Mosfet ? :look

[b1k3rdude]

I have to ask, why specifically a Shindengen Mosfet

• Shindengen - a lot of Jap bikes come with the SH type (bad) but a lot have been updated with the FH type (good - mosfet)
  
• Mosfet - better voltage regulation, runs cooler and is kinder to the alternator.
  

Loads of Info on this Triumph thread and this Honda CBR600/1000RR thread

And today I saw Shindengen 'FH020' R/R on an FZ8, which is the same R/R module fitted to the FZ1 (1D7-81960-01), so am changing the thread title.

[unfazed]

The FZS600 and FZS1000 use the SH type and they rarely give trouble.

The problem as far as I know with the CBR/VFR Hondas was poor location which compounded the heat issue from the SH types causing them to fail.

I suppose the MOSFET versions would give better protection to the electronics in todays bikes due to their faster reaction time and location would be less of an issue once the are away from the heat of the engine.

[b1k3rdude]

• The FZS600 and FZS1000 use the SH type and they rarely give trouble.
  
• I suppose the MOSFET versions would give better protection to the electronics in todays bikes due to their faster reaction time and location would be less of an issue once the are away from the heat of the engine.
  

• Mine is one of those times, with a fully charge battery I'm barely getting 13v @ 5k rpm. Compared to my bandit which is giving me 14v at idle.
  
• A mosfet (FH) based RRs are also better because they don't shunt excess current back into the stator/alternator, which extends the life of that unit,  the RR runs cooler & more efficiently and there have been some reports of getting a tad more mpg into the bargain. The fact Yamaha and other manufacturers fitted it to newer bikes proves that.
  

[unfazed]

I presume you checked the AC output of the Alternator.

Are you sure the FH one you are proposing to use is open type rather than as you call it shunt type?

As far as I know some of the FH models with the MOSFET technology are what you call shunt type

[b1k3rdude]

• I presume you checked the AC output of the Alternator.
  
• Are you sure the FH one you are proposing to use is open type rather than as you call it shunt type?
  
• As far as I know some of the FH models with the MOSFET technology are what you call shunt type
  

• Im getting 10-11v per phase and I have to assume this is with-in spec as there is no mention of what this figure should be in either the Haynes or service manual. I also checked the resistance of each phase and thats showing 0.3 ohms which is within spec.
  
• I believe most of them are 'shunt' type, there are some series(open) type but them seem to be twice the price and half the current output. Also the Alternator on the FZS isnt designed to operate with an open type RR, from what I've read this would cause the alternator to fry itself and/or the ECU.
  

But I just had a thought, if I had another stock FZS RR to hand i could then say for certain wither my RR is on its way out or wither the alternators is. I dont suppose anyone has a spare stock RR I could buy..?

[mickvp]

theres a few reg/rectifiers on the bay at the minute, but the ones for the FZ1 are not cheap at ~£70 used. Still, an option for you anyway

[unfazed]

[quote author=unfazed link=topic=14273.msg161650#msg161650 date=1407444565]

• I presume you checked the AC output of the Alternator.
  
• Are you sure the FH one you are proposing to use is open type rather than as you call it shunt type?
  
• As far as I know some of the FH models with the MOSFET technology are what you call shunt type
  

• Im getting 10-11v per phase and I have to assume this is with-in spec as there is no mention of what this figure should be in either the Haynes or service manual. I also checked the resistance of each phase and thats showing 0.3 ohms which is within spec.
  
• I believe most of them are 'shunt' type, there are some series(open) type but them seem to be twice the price and half the current output. Also the Alternator on the FZS isnt designed to operate with an open type RR, from what I've read this would cause the alternator to fry itself and/or the ECU.
  

But I just had a thought, if I had another stock FZS RR to hand i could then say for certain wither my RR is on its way out or wither the alternators is. I dont suppose anyone has a spare stock RR I could buy..?
[/quote]

They are the same as the foxeye 600s which would widen the search. Was the 10-11V at tick over? What did it rise to at 5000 revs?

[schlumpf]

The FZS1000 has the SH650C-11 from Shindengen. This is a thyristor shunt type.
The FZ1 has a FH012AA from Shindengen, a Mosfet shunt type.
Mosefet types are the more modern ones. Most of the RR are almost indentical and interchangeable, only current ratings have to match (or higher). Staying with Yamaha you might have luck with the connector matching.

I have installed a "compu-fire" 55402 on my bike, this a series type regulator. Those help to cool the alternators as the overage heat is dissipated in the RR (they have large cooling fins), not the alternator.
Positive effect of these series regulators on charging voltage is minor, at best.

At idle the FZS1000 alternator is not able to provide suffcient power for all consumers. Regardless whether shunt or series regulator. It needs at least 2000 revs to contribute signifcantly and charge the battery.

If pricing is an issue you can take a used SH or FH regulator, hoping it still works properly.
Next (better) choice would be to look for a FH012AA or FH020AA replacement kit (e.g. http://roadstercycle.com/). Mostely they come with a cabling/connector kit.
Most expensive are those series type RRs. Company names are compu-fire, cycleelectricinc, roadstercycle or silent-hektik.

Before changing the RR I would inspect the 2 connectors of the 3 wires coming from the alternator. On any doubt I would cut them out and solder the wires directly.

[b1k3rdude]

Before changing the RR I would inspect the 2 connectors of the 3 wires coming from the alternator. On any doubt I would cut them out and solder the wires directly.

I assume your referring to the 2x connectors with the 3x white wires that connect the alternator to the loom..? Both are as clean as a whistle.

[schlumpf]

Exactly. On some bikes they got fried. Good to see them in fine condition.

Besides, no connector is perfect. Even small drops sum up. Best advice would be to relocate the RR (to the frame triangle?), eliminate all plugs and shorten the wires to a minimum. I know it it easier said than done  ...

[b1k3rdude]

Best advice would be to relocate the RR (to the frame triangle?), eliminate all plugs and shorten the wires to a minimum. I know it it easier said than done

There is no space under either side panel, and even if there were there is not enough cooling - even a mosfet RR needs 'some' cooling.

[schlumpf]

Fully right. Was a more theoretical approach.
I've seen this once on a FZ1 with pod air filters and w/o airbox, plenty of space. Not a real alternative..
But at least getting rid of the connectors might be an option. I've never been in the situation to need them. Worst case would be to remove the engine, but then you have bigger problems and it doesn't matter.

[b1k3rdude]

Bump.