Give up balancing my carbs
This 4 gauge setup :rolleyes 8) 8) has air restrictor in so the needles can be settled. Terrible is they stick or jump wildly. Tried to tweak so they twitch , a fine setting , get a balance across all 4 carbs but engine doesn't sound right, so unrestrict then restrict and hey presto the needles are in a different position. Guess that what you get for a £40 eBay kit. Tried lots of things but it's not reliable kit
Are these manometers more settled and reliable. Any recommendations
Edit: is there any one in Blackpool I can lend a 4 port Morgan carbtune from.... Happy to buy you a point or two whilst here or pay cash for the 30 minute loan
Silly!
A PIC isn't going to show you the needles jumping around
Guess i was asking us whether foccers have used dial versus Morgan carbtune and what their experience is
No need for pics for that!!
I'm not really interested in the op, I just like looking at pictures. So, have you got any? Anything will do, doesn't have to be a carbtune. How about a picture of a penny dropping?
Btw, calling people silly isn't exactly going to get them queuing up to help you you know.
(02-08-14, 04:03 PM)dazza link Wrote:I'm not really interested in the op, I just like looking at pictures. So, have you got any? Anything will do, doesn't have to be a carbtune. How about a picture of a penny dropping?
Btw, calling people silly isn't exactly going to get them queuing up to help you you know.
Now sarcasim is a most unfavourable form of wit and tells us more about the source than it does the target
Ta ta
Calm down keratos, its only a balancing act.....the picture everyone wants to see is a picture of your 4 gauge set up, we cant comment unless we know what set up your using ...I use a 4 gauge set -up and never have any problems.....
(02-08-14, 04:19 PM)red98 link Wrote:Calm down keratos, its only a balancing act.....the picture everyone wants to see is a picture of your 4 gauge set up, we cant comment unless we know what set up your using ...I use a 4 gauge set -up and never have any problems.....
Ahem, er, I'm still not sure as to the purpose of the pic exchange ? I have used this 4 gauge setup before and know how to setup and use, and set the baffles to restrict air flow; what I'm suggesting - which requires no need for pics - is that the dial mechanisms are not as reliable as the fluid manometer type gauges , principally because:
1. Dials convert pressure to a mechanical reading thus involving some potential loss of accuracy/consistency and thus requires calibration
2. The dials need to be calibrated and my impression is that on expensive dial setup , each dial (x4) will be individually certified calibrated whereas cheaper eBay type items will not. This means that whilst all needle indicators APPEAR to be reading the same value, these readings would not take into account variations in calibration , resulting in cheap eBay gauges being way off despite all appearing to read the same value
3. Manometers, on the other hand, use direct vacuum to fluid mechanics and thus are more "reliable" - notwithstanding potential for errors due to manufacturing processes - tube diameters, baffle bores, etc. But the simplicity of manometers and the workings of vacuums and fluid are more in concert with each other when compared to a mechanical movement (dials) induced through vacuum ??
So quite why pics are needed for this - I simply dont know - but if you guys insist then I can post a pic of gauges at zero or gauges all at different readings - or the same - but that achieves very little to my simple mind ???
EDIT: I've thought of one good example of pics - one pic of a manometer on all 4 carbs, and one pic of 4 gauges on the same carbs without any adjustment after removing the manometer....is that what you mean? If so I cant do this because I aint got a manometer which was the whole point of this thread
calibrate???? almost as good as pics?
if you want to check calibration of each gauge then connect each one in turn to number 1 & 2 carb.... simples (been doing the meerkat thang today )
People use homemade set ups using pipe and oil, I'm sure they aren't sent off for calibration.
Note: as far as pics helping are concerned surely that is down to the ones u seek help from
Women have chocolate men have bikes.....
including ones who like chocolate....
(02-08-14, 06:15 PM)midden link Wrote:calibrate???? almost as good as pics?
if you want to check calibration of each gauge then connect each one in turn to number 1 & 2 carb.... simples (been doing the meerkat thang today )
People use homemade set ups using pipe and oil, I'm sure they aren't sent off for calibration.
Note: as far as pics helping are concerned surely that is down to the ones u seek help from
homemade pipe versions are - i suspect - reference to home made manometers or "water bottle chain" which operate differently than dials and need little if any calibration
connecting the same dial (one of 4) to all 4 carbs and reading the delta on each of the other 3 is one way - but a pain - for me - so I'm lazy and have ordered a carbtune from Morgan. My dials were from eBay and are not helping
doesnt matter . I wish I didnt start this thread - sorry for being a pain - I do not seem to be making the point in a way it is understood .. its ok now anyway
thank you all the same
I've not used a dial type (always suspected they'd give the sort of results you have), but since the vacuum fluctuates all types exhibit jitter to some degree.
Both mercury and rod-and-spring (Morgan) wobble noticeably, in fact the latter depends on the jitter to overcome stiction. You could, in theory, increase the damping of mercury ones to the point where the movement isn't visible, but it would make them slow to react to adjustments of the carbs. So far as accuracy is concerned I didn't find any problems with either type of manometer (set-up carbs, swapped connections... readings stayed the same).
I did make a (differential) water manometer for the job once when I was too much of cheapskate to buy a Carbtune... and found the carbs were sufficiently out of balance that the 5ft of head I'd designed for was not adequate. Fortunately I'd included restrictions (to cut down on jitter) and that reduced the rate at which the engine sucked the water in so there were no ill effects. :lol
(02-08-14, 06:40 PM)Fazerider link Wrote:I've not used a dial type (always suspected they'd give the sort of results you have), but since the vacuum fluctuates all types exhibit jitter to some degree.
Both mercury and rod-and-spring (Morgan) wobble noticeably, in fact the latter depends on the jitter to overcome stiction. You could, in theory, increase the damping of mercury ones to the point where the movement isn't visible, but it would make them slow to react to adjustments of the carbs. So far as accuracy is concerned I didn't find any problems with either type of manometer (set-up carbs, swapped connections... readings stayed the same).
I did make a (differential) water manometer for the job once when I was too much of cheapskate to buy a Carbtune... and found the carbs were sufficiently out of balance that the 5ft of head I'd designed for was not adequate. Fortunately I'd included restrictions (to cut down on jitter) and that reduced the rate at which the engine sucked the water in so there were no ill effects. :lol
Appreciate the insightful post. Useful info. thank you
...I use a 4 gauge set -up and never have any problems.....
