Datatool Duo Nightmare

[bobjimwilly]

How about this for a first post - need help trying to remove a datatool duo  :'(


To cut a long story short I lost the one and only fob I had for the immobiliser, and datatool said I would have to pay someone to remove the unit, which they could re-programme with two new fobs and then re-install. "Obviously" I chose to do it myself, and being a naive bloke with no real auto-electrical experience, I'm now in a pickle.


Before I get on to asking advice on certain wires that I have left after removing the immobiliser, my first question is why is there an alarm in the haynes wiring diagram for the fazer if they didn't come out the factory with them fitted? Can I ignore any wires that should be connected to the "alarm" if I don't have one?

[keithfzs1000]

http://abacuscaralarms.co.uk/members/for...d&pid=6189

might help

[unfazed]

Do you know what exact model of alarm it is?
Post  a picture if not sure

[bobjimwilly]

it's not an alarm I removed, it was a datatool duo immobiliser.


afaik there's no alarm on the bike? I certainly have never heard it in the years I've owned it, and I don't have a fob or anything for it?

[bobjimwilly]

I've got black 7 wires in total that had been previously wired to the datatool immobiliser - 6 come from the front end of the bike, 1 comes from the ignition control unit.


Looking at a fazer wiring diagram (https://www.dropbox.com/s/mjii9hiitod9nv...wiring.pdf), I'm presuming the one from the ICU is the one that goes to the "alarm", as the other black wire from the ICU already goes to ground. It also gives out 10v, not 12v - if that is relevant I don't know?


From the other 6 black wires, using a multimeter I found that 2 go to ground, 3 are 12v when ignition is on and 1 is neither ground nor powered.


I'm hoping someone can advise what to do/try next?

[Fazerider]

Yamaha offered their own alarm/immobiliser unit as an option, in its absence the link plugs allow the ignition to work normally. Question is, did the datatool plug into the existing connectors? If so, all you need is the link plugs.
Otherwise, if the installer cut the old connectors off so you can't tell which black wire is which, you'll need persuade some kind Fazer owner to trace each one... probably information that shouldn't be posted publicly.

[bobjimwilly]

thanks for the info Fazerider. The datatool installer must have cut the original connectors off 
Reading other threads on this and other forums, it sounds like some of the wires need taping up, where others need looping back together, question is which ones? Am I right in thinking one of the black wires links to the starter switch relay? If so how would I test which one(s) they are?

[Fazerider]

A multimeter on continuity check mode is probably the easiest way, with the connector at the far end unplugged, though wires that loop on to multiple places can still fool you.

[bobjimwilly]

ok found a couple more things out about wires coming from "front end":

1 wire I thought was live with ignition is actually permanent 12v
1 is a ground when ignition is on
1 is a permanent ground
1 wire becomes a ground when starter button is pressed
2 wires are 12v when ignition is on (can't seem to interrupt either of these, no matter what buttons I press or turn on?)

I've also still got the 1 10v wire coming from the ICU

I'm still no closer as to which ones should be connected back together? According to the datatool duo installation manual (http://bit.ly/1jzynnu) there have been two cuts made by the installer - 1 for starter immobilisation (between the starter relay and starter button), and 1 for engine mobilisation (such as the side stand switch, handlebar kill switch, fuel pump relay).

Hmmm......

[unfazed]

Do all this with the ignition off and battery disconnected.

Remove the left hand Side cover and locate the starter cut out relay (the biggest connector) There should be a black wire in the connector block, this is the most likely wire you connect the wire that goes to earth when you press the starter button to. Using the meter buzzer (does the meter have a buzzer?) to trace that wire to one of your black wires at the duo connection point and connect it to the starter button earth wire. That is the easy one and you should now have a working starter motor.

If the installer used the Yamaha alarm connectors then it should be relatively easy to find which is which, but since that is unknown it will require a little more work and it will mean disconnecting the plugs on the ECU to try and find it.

With the wire that goes to earth (ground) when you switch the ignition on, does it go off if you put down the side stand or put the bike in gear?

[bobjimwilly]

The fazer is starting! 


You were right about the switched earth wire unfazed; went off if when I put the side-stand down.


First I connected the wire that became a ground when starter button was pressed to the wire that had 12v when ignition was on. This let the bike turn over but seemed to be no spark.


So then I connected the other 12v to the ground wire that was affected by the side-stand. This results in a blown 30A main fuse  :\


So I thought the "side-stand ground" must be connected to something? So I connected it to the 10v black wire coming from the ignition unit. Pressed the starter button and BANG - I thought someone had fired a shot gun in my garage and my ears were ringing! I'm guessing it was all the fuel in the cylinders that finally got ignited. A minute later, after I dared go back in the garage, she was sat there purring like a kitten. 

[unfazed]

That was my next suggestion , but was at the NW200 since yesterday and just back and did not have internet access. The 10v from the ECU is via electronics in the ECU and requires an earth to allow the ECU to fire the plugs, which is why the Side down stops the engine, it break the earth. The reason I asked about the side stand or Clutch was to suggest you connect it the the 10v from the ECU if it broke the earth.

All is well now I see