BMW S1000RR shock conversion question

[richiomtt]

Yup I certainly agree, unless you have 6 hands


You need to glue the washers to the shock itself. Make sure they're set before you fit the shock as impatient me went for it straight the way and it was still a slippin and a slidin.


Rich

[JayB]

Got it back from my mate last night and he had some washers in his kitchen drawer 

I figured it out as soon as I looked at it, reckoning it would be a swine otherwise.

Going to glue them up tonight and do the change tomorrow.

I don't have a tool for the preload -  reckon I'd be able to wind it up by hand off the bike or wait til I can grab a C spanner?

[richiomtt]

No chance by hand. Spray some WD40 on it and it will help. Best to do it in situ on the bike. If you're careful a large blunt screwdriver and hammer :eek  That's what I did in the end as couldn't get my c spanner in the right position

[JayB]

LOL, I did try by hand aswell, but NO, I'm not He-Man so failed.  :lol

Bit of a pain as I only thought the top mount needed drilling out, had to take it to a bike shop to have the lower one drilled and a new bolt sorted for it as the Yammy one was about 1/4" too short to support it.

All on and done though now, just needs setting up, preload is about half way and there is a bit too much sag, but it now feels a lot better damped, so I think it will be nice once I can wind it up.
Front end is also dropped about 10mm so I will level it back out to normal once I've jacked up the preload some more.

I think it will turn out to be a top mod for the money. 

[richiomtt]

Yep top and bottom need to be drilled but glad you got it on. My forks are also up 10 mm through the yokes and it's also jacked up at the rear (because of the BMW shock). It turns great now and no dog dragging it's bum feel. Also super stable... Enjoy.


Rich

[JayB]

Yeah far better, can't wait to get it set up properly. Looks loads better too!

Very hard on the high speed damping, I set them both to 6, gonna set the spring and set it all properly at the weekend, maybe one lunchtime if I get chance.

[JayB]

pic

[richiomtt]

Did you notice how light it was versus the original rubbish? It's a quality item and I keep thinking that's it's meant to help deal with 180BHP, so should be more than up to the job.


Rich

[JayB]

Yeah, I did actually, nearly dropped the original one as I cupped my hand under it.

I like the fact the BMW one has the rod shrouded too, so it's protected.

Bonus, like the R6 one, having high & low speed adjustment. I probably won't bother going for the Honda spring, I've bust my bike budget for the moment now, with new tyres and this shock, plus the chain is looking tired so that is gonna need doing soon.

[JayB]

Rich, can you do me a favour next time you are doing something to the bike?
Can you pop out the bolt that clamps the top spring adjuster, like a tit I left mine loose and it's fallen out somewhere outside the house!

:rolleyes

Will try and find it but would be great if you could size it up for me please fella...

[richiomtt]

Just to be clear, do you mean the little torx bolt that clamps the pre-load spring?


Rich

[JayB]

yeah that's it mate..!

I tried a BMW fiche for the dimensions but it's not featured.... bloody inefficient krauts  :lol

[JayB]

I need to wind the bike up a bit more as I still have a lot of sag (only measured by eye as yet) but the back wheel is very nearly on the floor while bike is on the centrestand. If I go more, I am worrying about the bike bloody rolling away while on the stand!
I may change the dogbones to give it a bit more clearance and make the front-end bias a little less extreme.

[richiomtt]

My back wheel is very close the the ground too with the centrestand - don't worry about it. It rides just great and i can still spin the wheel to lube the chain no problem.


I'm not sure it's going to help you if I remove the pre-load screw and measure it. I won't be able to tell you the pitch and you can work our the length dead easy from the hole. This will be a £2 part at most, so I'd risk a small selection from a bolt manufacturer. It will be standard vehicle thread anyway.


Rich

[JayB]

Just the diameter would help mate, but I will have a look at home and see if it fell out while I was working. I have a patch of concrete out the back I work on.

Hopefully once I wind it up a bit more as required, it won't deck out the tyre totally.

It is worth it, rides so much better, can't wait til the weekend to do my favourite 60 mile loop! 

[unfazed]

Just to add to this thread about the S1000rr Shock.
I finished fitting the 2012/13 S1000rr shock today and with the settings set to BMW normal number 4 Rebound number 4 low speed compression and number 4  high speed compression. I took it for a spin, what a difference no more wallowing  Must play around some more with the settings, but they are very good at BMW normal settings.
Measurements from Eye to Eye
Standard Fazer 100 shock is 305 mm
The  2012/13 s1000rr shock is 309mm It is easy to tell the difference between the two S1000rr shocks as the fork on the bottom of the 2013/13 shock is silver coloured and the older 2009/10 is bronze coloured like the top. See picture of visual difference in 2010/11 and 2012/13 shocks. The 2012/13 has improved damping control and slightly different standard setting to the 2011/12 shock

You will need the following for fitting:
A 12mm bit
Two 2.65mm thick washers 25mm outside diameter and 12mm diameter centre hole. I made them up as most standard are 2.5mm
A 12mm bolt with the shoulder 41.5mm long.
I used and old shoulder bolt from the top of the 600 shock, ground it to take the shoulder back to 41.5mm, re tapped it to take the standard M10 nut & washer and cut it to clear the dog bones. Original bolt was the correct length but shoulder was to short. The fork of the s1000rr Shock is 2mm wider overall. Using the original bolt was not an option.

Greased up all the linkages and put it back together.

As with previous posts the max preload was giving me 20mm static sag. I measured the thread space at the top of the shock and there is 12mm of  space with the shock on max preload. I will make up a 7 to 10 mm spacer to fit under the spring to allow me add more preload and see how it goes from there. It feels fine at the moment as the laden sag is less than the sag at max preload of the original shock.

[unfazed]

Went for a run with my son on the back today we are both about 13.5stone weight in full bike gear and the shock was outstanding. The spring was a little soft over some exceptionally bad roads (we were watching the West Cork Rally) and some slightly spirited riding but it never bottomed out. Had some fun with a few "wanna be rally car drivers" :rolleyes on the way to some stages. :lol.  A 2012/13 S1000rr shock is definitely a worthwhile investment if you can get it for the right money. It will be fine with my wife on the back as she is only 9 stone in full bike gear. Next stop the North West 200 with a few friends to really test it out.

[bludclot]

zero miles, £40 including postage. i couldn't resist:





going to fit this in conjunction with a forks strip and overhaul. i'll post the results once done. i do my own mehcanical work but know very little about suspension so will be subjective. current shock is the standard fzs unit that i had re-built around 5k miles ago.

[shrekster]

I bid on the same shock from this seller, he listed that he had 2 shocks for sale by mistake. He only had the one, bummer! I already have a BMW shock with a 550lb spring on my Fazer, I've only done a few short runs and the rear end feels brilliant.
Jim.

[NorthWestern]

Check the bottom adjuster on the shock, its a pain to get to from the exhaust side of the bike when fitted. I had to rotate the shock bottom 180 degrees so it was on the chain side.