Bad weather encourages crap to build up inside the pivot of the rear brake lever, give it a spray with brake cleaner or even WD40 and then drop some 3 in 1 oil onto it and you'll be amazed at how it can improve braking sharpness.
It may not be your actual issue but you should do this every month to keep it clean anyway.
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
That's a good shout actually darrsi, and something that's probably overdue given I've been out and been caught in the wet a couple of times. Likely that's contributing to my troubles as well, as I have found I also needed to flick the pedal back up with my toe as the spring just wasn't persuading it enough.
Best stuff to use is brake cleaner and red rubber grease to achieve the same - there is a risk wd40 and similar can damage the rubber seals although admittedly I've used that and gt85 in the past with no ill effects. See the link for a good guide.
http://www.bikesandtravels.co.uk/biker.a...156&info=1
Once a piston is cleaned, I smear it lightly with red rubber grease before pushing the piston back into the caliper, and wipe off excess which will attract dirt or run off onto the braking surfaces. As the pistons might need more persuading to move this time, you could try wd40 or similar to free them up but would not use too much too regularly - my 2 pence worth. Rest is covered in the guide I think. Back of the pads and brake pins, use a little copper grease not the red stuff.
Thanks for that fuzzy, that's a great guide.
(17-03-14, 11:16 PM)Fuzzy link Wrote: Best stuff to use is brake cleaner and red rubber grease to achieve the same - there is a risk wd40 and similar can damage the rubber seals although admittedly I've used that and gt85 in the past with no ill effects. See the link for a good guide.
http://www.bikesandtravels.co.uk/biker.a...156&info=1
Once a piston is cleaned, I smear it lightly with red rubber grease before pushing the piston back into the caliper, and wipe off excess which will attract dirt or run off onto the braking surfaces. As the pistons might need more persuading to move this time, you could try wd40 or similar to free them up but would not use too much too regularly - my 2 pence worth. Rest is covered in the guide I think. Back of the pads and brake pins, use a little copper grease not the red stuff.
I'm only on about the lever pivot with the WD40, i wouldn't go near the calipers with it.
Calipers are strictly brake cleaner only, as it leaves no residue at all. I've used a normal degreaser spray before and the residue left behind caused the pistons to misbehave, even though i used plenty of red rubber grease.
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
Ah, see what you mean now, that's a good tip :thumbup
Thanks for the tips guys. I popped the calliper off today and there were a multitude of issues.
The calliper had a lot of crud in it and the pads were catching on the sides, so I gave the runner portions a good clean and scrap out with a blunt screwdriver. I also took a file to the sides of the pads to get the crud and surface rust off.
I Then followed your guide for doing the pistons fuzzy, except using brake cleaner instead of kerosene/brake fluid. Took ages to get the pistons to spin to do the back, but I got there 
Put it all back together with some liberal pyroplex grease, then copper slipped the back of the pads and built it all up. Also a fair bit of crap on the pins for the pads, so gave them a wee rub with emery too before greasing.
I did your tip as well punk sting and attacked the brake lever pin with release oil, then oiled it with some light oil.
I've not had a chance to get out and test it yet (but I will be leaving for uni soon so will get a good 30 miles to check everything), however, even just on spinning the back wheel and pressing it is night and day, so it appears to have done the trick.
Thanks again
Actually, "punk sting" wasn't even on this post, but it made me laugh anyway. :lol
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
(19-03-14, 02:50 PM)darrsi link Wrote: Actually, "punk sting" wasn't even on this post, but it made me laugh anyway. :lol
ha! apologies Darrsi, I dont know why I thought it wa punkstig (and of course, punk sting is an autocorrect fail and not even a member on here :lol).
Anyway, 'twas a top tip mate, ill need to keep an eye on that bit and keep it clean and well oiled
(19-03-14, 03:05 PM)mickvp link Wrote: [quote author=darrsi link=topic=12161.msg135483#msg135483 date=1395237003]
Actually, "punk sting" wasn't even on this post, but it made me laugh anyway. :lol
ha! apologies Darrsi, I dont know why I thought it wa punkstig (and of course, punk sting is an autocorrect fail and not even a member on here :lol ).
Anyway, 'twas a top tip mate, ill need to keep an eye on that bit and keep it clean and well oiled
[/quote]
When it's nice and clean and lubed you'll notice how very little you need to tap the foot lever for a good response, and you'll also feel when it clogs up a bit as well in the future, it's very simple but effective.
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
Glad you got it sorted. I don't bother with spinning the pistons, too much effort.
Instead, I remove the metal pad spring insert (know what I mean?) at the bottom of the rear caliper. This allows better access for a toothbrush to clean, or a finger to smear red grease, round the other side of the piston. When you remove the pad spring, it also allows you to clean out any crud caught at the bottom of the caliper. A lot can accumulate there because the caliper has two smallish drainage holes which are then mostly obscured by the pad spring - a design flaw really. Might be worth trying next time - getting the springy thing out can be tricky to begin with but you'll soon get a knack for it.
I know the spring you mean. Does that just pop put then (I.e. there's no screws or clips holding it in?)
I'll try that next time
No springs or screws - It's held in by a lip cast into one half of the caliper. So you kinda have to slide it in and out (ooh er) sideways and maneuver it about a little. Once you figure it out it's easy and is quicker than spinning the pistons.
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