(20-08-13, 11:59 AM)BluprintZ link Wrote: Just got the nut and tab washer, obviously it's the 12mm one but as in the pic above of the old 9mm one, there's a shoulder of about 3mm which i assume locates on the plastic bit on the original Yam sprocket, to quieten things down i believe?
So, my question to those of you who have had to replace the old nut with the new one, what do you consider the best torque setting, after of course adding threadlock to the shaft threads?
I would rather take advice from someone who has done this than rely on the Haynes book of lies, to be honest.
G ; )
From memory i think the old one was 70Nm and the new one was a suggested 90Nm, but i personally had mine torqued at 80Nm.
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
(20-08-13, 01:20 PM)BluprintZ link Wrote: Ok guys, cheers for the info, i'll be gritting my teeth as i tighten it up, the shaft threads didn't look too clever really!
G ; )
It's because other people had said they had a bad feeling about pushing 90Nm that a few of us opted for 80Nm instead.
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
Right then, the nut and tab-washer are fitted.....although, i took it to 70Nm and the torque wrench was clicking away.
The tab-washer and the sprocket were still very loose, so i took it to 90Nm and again, clickety click and the washer etc, were still rather loose.
So i thought sod it, keep going until the washer and sprocket were waggle free, which i did and folded the tab over and put everything back together again.
I'm assuming that the sprocket isn't supposed to be loose?, i'm thinking that the reason the torque wrench was clicking, was because the nut was threading the slightly damaged shaft and it was reaching the specified Nm due to this?
Oh well, time will tell i expect, i put threadlock on the shaft, it's got new chain and sprockets fitted, plus of course the new nut and washer, we'll see how things go.
It's gonna be a nervous ride, the next time i take her out.
(20-08-13, 06:19 PM)BluprintZ link Wrote: Right then, the nut and tab-washer are fitted.....although, i took it to 70Nm and the torque wrench was clicking away.
The tab-washer and the sprocket were still very loose, so i took it to 90Nm and again, clickety click and the washer etc, were still rather loose.
So i thought sod it, keep going until the washer and sprocket were waggle free, which i did and folded the tab over and put everything back together again.
I'm assuming that the sprocket isn't supposed to be loose?, i'm thinking that the reason the torque wrench was clicking, was because the nut was threading the slightly damaged shaft and it was reaching the specified Nm due to this?
Oh well, time will tell i expect, i put threadlock on the shaft, it's got new chain and sprockets fitted, plus of course the new nut and washer, we'll see how things go.
It's gonna be a nervous ride, the next time i take her out.
G ; )
Still loose at 90Nm ?
Oooerr...... :look
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
Gotta agree with you Nick, and also a tad worrying the nut had to be done up so tightly as well.
@freeware, i'm a big fan of copper grease, i use it a lot on my bike, but i'm surprised you used it on the front sprocket nut, i think i would rather prefer it seized on!
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
If it were me, my first port of call would be to a good engineer to see if it could be built up with some kind of weld or something, then recut the thread, preferably with everything in situ. Maybe there's someone on this forum who could answer whether or not that's possible.
Darrsi, I didn't want the nut to be siezed when it comes to sprocket fitting next time but I may be wrong... I'll check at near future if everything's right (tight) under the cover.
(20-08-13, 09:30 PM)freeware link Wrote: Darrsi, I didn't want the nut to be siezed when it comes to sprocket fitting next time but I may be wrong... I'll check at near future if everything's right (tight) under the cover.
It's 6 of one, half a dozen of the other mate.
It's a scenario that we shouldn't really have to be thinking about at all, but unfortunately we have to take things seriously because of what's happened to other peoples bikes in the past.
It looks nice and shiny though
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
I agree the O/S thread looks bad but as i mentioned in my last post, i recon the fact that the torque wrench was clicking at 90 Nm, was probably because the new nut was cutting a thread into the shaft.
I do have access to a very good engineer/welder, although whether to go arc or mig, i will have to discuss with him.
To be honest, now that i have a new chain, sprockets and the 12mm nut on, i'm inclined to let him wend the nut on, as i few on here have done...i think?
I should get a few years out of the bike if i look after the chain but to say i'm rather gutted, is an understatement, i really was happy with the bike, until this shambles unfolded.
It's probably too late to go shouting at Yamaha for a new shaft to be fitted, although i might do, just to see if they will honour the fact that they have messed up with this issus.
21-08-13, 05:40 AM (This post was last modified: 21-08-13, 05:42 AM by darrsi.)
(21-08-13, 12:09 AM)BluprintZ link Wrote: I agree the O/S thread looks bad but as i mentioned in my last post, i recon the fact that the torque wrench was clicking at 90 Nm, was probably because the new nut was cutting a thread into the shaft.
I do have access to a very good engineer/welder, although whether to go arc or mig, i will have to discuss with him.
To be honest, now that i have a new chain, sprockets and the 12mm nut on, i'm inclined to let him wend the nut on, as i few on here have done...i think?
I should get a few years out of the bike if i look after the chain but to say i'm rather gutted, is an understatement, i really was happy with the bike, until this shambles unfolded.
It's probably too late to go shouting at Yamaha for a new shaft to be fitted, although i might do, just to see if they will honour the fact that they have messed up with this issus.
Thanks for all the advice guys.
G ; (
Worth a try at the very least!
When you speak to Yamaha show them the service note number: [size=1em]SERVICE NOTE 2005-12A[/size]
"....Any FZS600 Fazers model (1998-2003), regardless of whether it still in warranty or has been serviced officially in the Dealer channel can be inspected at any official Dealer. Remove the existing nut and washer. Measure the drive shaft OD of the threaded part (micrometer or vernier caliper). If >= 17.5 mm - clean threads and fit a new washer & nut with threadlock. If < 17.5 mm - the drive shaft must be replaced. (This work could take between 1 day to 2 weeks depending on dealer workload)...."
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
I'd whip it off and remove sprocket, clean all with wire brush and refit with thread lock, torque to 80 and see how you get on. Or whilst its all off check the nut runs up the shaft.
(21-08-13, 09:03 AM)lds1973 link Wrote: I'd whip it off and remove sprocket, clean all with wire brush and refit with thread lock, torque to 80 and see how you get on. Or whilst its all off check the nut runs up the shaft.
He's already said it didn't feel tight at 90Nm.
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
21-08-13, 10:50 AM (This post was last modified: 21-08-13, 11:22 AM by nick crisp.)
(21-08-13, 05:40 AM)darrsi link Wrote: [quote author=BluprintZ link=topic=9329.msg95625#msg95625 date=1377040180]
I agree the O/S thread looks bad but as i mentioned in my last post, i recon the fact that the torque wrench was clicking at 90 Nm, was probably because the new nut was cutting a thread into the shaft.
I do have access to a very good engineer/welder, although whether to go arc or mig, i will have to discuss with him.
To be honest, now that i have a new chain, sprockets and the 12mm nut on, i'm inclined to let him wend the nut on, as i few on here have done...i think?
I should get a few years out of the bike if i look after the chain but to say i'm rather gutted, is an understatement, i really was happy with the bike, until this shambles unfolded.
It's probably too late to go shouting at Yamaha for a new shaft to be fitted, although i might do, just to see if they will honour the fact that they have messed up with this issus.
Thanks for all the advice guys.
G ; (
Worth a try at the very least!
When you speak to Yamaha show them the service note number: [size=1em]SERVICE NOTE 2005-12A[/size]
"....Any FZS600 Fazers model (1998-2003), regardless of whether it still in warranty or has been serviced officially in the Dealer channel can be inspected at any official Dealer. Remove the existing nut and washer. Measure the drive shaft OD of the threaded part (micrometer or vernier caliper). If >= 17.5 mm - clean threads and fit a new washer & nut with threadlock. If < 17.5 mm - the drive shaft must be replaced. (This work could take between 1 day to 2 weeks depending on dealer workload)...."
[/quote]
Has to be best first option - a new o/p shaft fitted for free? You couldn't turn that down if they'll do it.
2nd option, I'd look at the weld and recut solution - hopefully it could solve the issue on a permanent basis, whereas welding on the sprocket nut maybe will just cause headaches later.
(21-08-13, 10:17 AM)darrsi link Wrote: [quote author=lds1973 link=topic=9329.msg95643#msg95643 date=1377072196]
I'd whip it off and remove sprocket, clean all with wire brush and refit with thread lock, torque to 80 and see how you get on. Or whilst its all off check the nut runs up the shaft.
He's already said it didn't feel tight at 90Nm.
[/quote]
Exactly. Something isn't right hence the need to inspect and clean. I wouldn't be riding around on possible cross threaded/ damaged thread etc etc. Would you?
(21-08-13, 12:33 PM)lds1973 link Wrote: [quote author=darrsi link=topic=9329.msg95654#msg95654 date=1377076648]
[quote author=lds1973 link=topic=9329.msg95643#msg95643 date=1377072196]
I'd whip it off and remove sprocket, clean all with wire brush and refit with thread lock, torque to 80 and see how you get on. Or whilst its all off check the nut runs up the shaft.
He's already said it didn't feel tight at 90Nm.
[/quote]
Exactly. Something isn't right hence the need to inspect and clean. I wouldn't be riding around on possible cross threaded/ damaged thread etc etc. Would you?
[/quote]
Judging by the photo', the shaft thread looks more than ropey to me anyway.
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
(21-08-13, 01:05 PM)darrsi link Wrote: [quote author=lds1973 link=topic=9329.msg95674#msg95674 date=1377084804]
[quote author=darrsi link=topic=9329.msg95654#msg95654 date=1377076648]
[quote author=lds1973 link=topic=9329.msg95643#msg95643 date=1377072196]
I'd whip it off and remove sprocket, clean all with wire brush and refit with thread lock, torque to 80 and see how you get on. Or whilst its all off check the nut runs up the shaft.
He's already said it didn't feel tight at 90Nm.
[/quote]
Exactly. Something isn't right hence the need to inspect and clean. I wouldn't be riding around on possible cross threaded/ damaged thread etc etc. Would you?
[/quote]
Judging by the photo', the shaft thread looks more than ropey to me anyway.
![[Image: 242673.png]](http://badges.fuelly.com/images/smallsig-uk/242673.png)
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