Brake Seals DIY Job? Braided Line Question Aswell

[Andy Smith FZS]

Can the seals be replaced without specialist help.  I know if in doubt get it done professionally, but I want to weigh up my options.
Brakes were binding, calipers removed - very dirty.  My dad took them to a garage in the industrial estate he works in to get them cleaned.  I plan to putting everything back together and seeing if its fixed the problem.  Bikes got 11k on it and it sat for over a year 2011-2012. 

I had thought about changing the seals as per lack of history.  Need a closer look when I get them back.


Also wanted to asked a questions about brake lines on wemoto.

http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/yamaha/fzs_6...ce_set-up/

http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/yamaha/fzs_6...rd_set-up/


Race set only has 2 lines and a double banjo bolt at the lever.  Standard being the normal set up.

Was going to go for the race ones as there cheaper (always a good incentive) but wanted to know if anyone else has done this, is it better having the race lines, I read that the t peice in the 3 line kit can make bleeding abit difficult.

Any help would be great.

Cheers

Andy

[Chris]

I'm going for the 2 line race kit when I replace my front lines. It shouldn't make any difference to braking really apart from the difference provided by having braided hoses over the standard rubber ones. It's a simpler system and that's always better, less to go wrong, easier to bleed etc etc.

As for the seals, they can be done by yourself if you know what you're doing, plenty info online if you search about as to how to do it but they are your brakes and if you're not confident to do it yourself then get a professional to do it.  8)  The only other thing with seals is to make sure and use genuine ones as some aftermarket seals don't fit right and can cause problems.

Chris

[Dead Eye]

When I bought HEL lines for my previous Fazer I went with 2 lines as well, no issue with it

[thesagaciousman]

I on the other hand went with Fren Tubo lines with the standard set up. Cheaper than the equivalent HEL or Goodridge equipment, but really nice quality.

I fitted race lines to an old fireblade and they were just a fraction too short, causing clearance and routing issues. But to balance that they were a cheap set, not HEL or Goodridge, etc.

[Dave48]

Its not a difficult job but allow plenty of time so you don't rush & forget to tighten something vital. Make sure you have got everything to hand before you start-ie brake cleaner (Halfords etc), new seal kits-experience suggests go for Yamaha seals as they are guaranteed to fit. Scrupulous cleanliness is the order of the day-plenty of clean rag, paper to mop up any brake fluid. Also you need some copper grease to apply thinly to brake pad BACK PLATES and pad holding pins. Only dismantle one caliper at a time and make sure you replace pistons in their original bores.Also clean out grooves that hold seals with a soft tool to get rid of any small particlesof corrosion/dirt/etc so new seals fit properly. lubricate pistons with brake fluid when fitting and apply small amount of RED RUBBER BRAKE GREASE to exposed ends of pistons. Use the new crush washers supplied with your new line kit-throw the old ones away-theyre not reuseable. When bleeding system wrap towelling around master cylinder to protect paintwork/tank etc-brak fluid I very corrosive. Use fresh DOT 4 fluid . Haynes manual explains it all.

[Andy Smith FZS]

Thanks for all the replies, will get the race lines ordered in the next couple of days.
I've still to buy the seals and all lubricants.  I was planning on getting the pistons out once the calipers are clean and see if a full seal kits needed or just the dust seals. 


I know some people will say just change them, probably the best option to prevent any future issues. I'd be commuting to work in sunny Glasgow and using the bike for weekend blasts so ill probably need to clean the brakes twice a year to keep on top of the crud that builds up.

My dads got an old MG midget which he rebuilt so I've got some assistance at hand.

Cheers

Andy