Head race bearings

[green_rider]

Having ridden around for a few months I decided that the head race bearings probably needed doing.  The bike didn't feel very stable in corners and had an odd clunk when braking or riding bumpy roads.  I took it in to get it done as I don't have the right tools or the patience to do it properly.  Turns out the bearings were in the top 3 worst bearings the mechanic has ever seen.  I thought it was just my riding skill!  By the time I reached the end of the road I could hardly believe the difference.  The bike felt like a completely different one, almost like it was on rails!  I'm genuinely shocked at how much of a difference it has made.

[packie]

Having ridden around for a few months I decided that the head race bearings probably needed doing.  The bike didn't feel very stable in corners and had an odd clunk when braking or riding bumpy roads.  I took it in to get it done as I don't have the right tools or the patience to do it properly.  Turns out the bearings were in the top 3 worst bearings the mechanic has ever seen.  I thought it was just my riding skill!  By the time I reached the end of the road I could hardly believe the difference.  The bike felt like a completely different one, almost like it was on rails!  I'm genuinely shocked at how much of a difference it has made.

I'll be having mine looked at soon too. The stability isn't too bad, but I can get that click or clunk sound that you had...but only under hard breaking. I'm keeping the fingers crossed that all it need is a tighten up....but I'm fearing the worst that I need the head bearings replaced too.  :\

[humbucker88]

packie, are you sure you're forks aren't just bottoming out? Could always try some thicker fork oil

[Lawrence]

How big a job is it to change them?  Mine were an advisory on the MOT...

[darrsi]

How big a job is it to change them?  Mine were an advisory on the MOT...

Horrible, to be honest......

[packie]

packie, are you sure you're forks aren't just bottoming out? Could always try some thicker fork oil

Naw...it's defo a steering stem problem. I had to change a pitted fork a while ago and not alone did I upgrade to 15w oil and measured the correct amount, I also purchased a set of Hagon Progressives springs. If anything, I could have used the standard 10w oil as the forks are stiffer than I like, and I had to dial the dampning a way back as a result. You'd have to drop this bike off a cliff to have it bottom out which is a testament to Hagon Fork Springs.

On the plus side, there is not pitting or rough spots when moving the handlebars from side to side, so it might be they are just loose and need a slight tighen up.

[Fazerider]

How big a job is it to change them?  Mine were an advisory on the MOT...

I'm halfway through doing mine at the moment.
It took me a couple of hours to get decent access... fairing off, wheel off, mudguard off, brakes removed completely. Bars unclamped... they can then be pulled forward and hooked over the instrument binnacle.
Loosen the clamps and slide the stanchions out, wedge the lower clamps further open with a screwdriver if necessary. The top yoke comes off and can be hooked onto the left hand side fairing mount once you've detached the wire loop on the underside that the throttle cables pass through.
Pry the lockwasher off the steering head and undo the pair of nuts to remove it.
In the absence of any specialist tools, get an expendable, sturdy, flat blade screwdriver with a long shaft and bend the end inch over by about 15º. You might need to file or grind the end square and reduce it in width to 5 or 6mm. This makes an excellent drift for knocking the bearings out of the headstock. The lower one is easy, there are fore and aft notches to give reasonable purchase on the bearing, just take it a bit at a time so it comes out square... knock one side too far in one go and it'll jam. The top is a bit harder, they didn't make notches in the headstock there, but sharpen your drift and there is just enough lip available to tap on. It's probably easier with a third hand to press the tip of the screwdriver against the edge of the bearing, but it can be done on your own... just work your way round the edge to drive it out squarely.


I ran out of time at that point, but I'm not expecting any major problems getting the inner bearing off the steering head or fitting the replacement bearings when I get back to the job on Friday.