USB socket

[simonm]

Thinking of one of these (after adding an inline fuse holder) to a microUSB plug for a satnav.


Opinions ?


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/110868650901?s...1438.l2649 

[alexanderfitu]

Would work very well

I have 1 sitting on my desk to power my DVR cameras for when they finnaly arrive! (to go on the bike!)

[Buzz]

Just make sure your S3 can take 3A!!

[simonm]

Just make sure your S3 can take 3A!!

I'm pretty sure devices will only pull the current that they need.  See this post


http://forums.androidcentral.com/sprint-...ost2284019


I think you need to short the data pins to get the phone to pull more than 500ma though.  More research required....

[richfzs]

Simon,

you're spot on, the device will take the current it wants. The spec for the regulator gives the max current it can supply, not what it pushes out constantly - to always drive 3 amps out, it would need to have a variable voltage, and nobody wants that  :lol

[Buzz]

the device will take the current it wants.

I stand corrected (said the man in the orthopedic shoe).


When I soldered my original USB cable I only connected the 5V and GND and when connected the iPhone it wouldn't charge, I took the cable out and soldered the other 2 wires as well and that fixed it.  I'm not sure what will happen with your setup as all you have is 5V and GND.


EDIT - according to this you'll need to solder the green and white Data+ and Data- wires together to get it working.

[alexanderfitu]

That wont work with the 4 and or 5. They require stupid resistor values to tell thep hone that its plugged into an apple accesory so they charge properly. grrr

[Buzz]

That wont work with the 4 and or 5. They require stupid resistor values to tell thep hone that its plugged into an apple accesory so they charge properly. grrr

Ahh, didn't know that, mines an old 3GS.  This might interest you as I know you're a fan of tinkering.

[alexanderfitu]

I think you can get a cable that simulates it, though so not too hard to put in line with the 5v power source

[Rebuilt]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BIKE-IT-12V-WA...51a3533be9

I got this one a while ago and it works brilliantly ... 2 usb sockets and takes 1 amp per device ... so out a 12 volt battery thats charging whilst riding all is well ... i also charge phone on move sometimes ... saved my ass a few times there

[simonm]

courtesy of wikipedia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB#Power):

The USB Battery Charging Specification of 2007 defines new types of USB ports, e.g., charging ports.[color=rgb(11, 0, 128)][51][/color][color=rgb(11, 0, 128)] As compared to standard downstream ports, where a portable device can only draw more than 100 mA current after digital negotiation with the host or hub, charging ports can supply currents above 500 mA without digital negotiation. A charging port supplies up to 500 mA at 5 V, up to the rated current at 3.6 V or more, and drop its output voltage if the portable device attempts to draw more than the rated current. The charger port may shut down if the load is too high.[/color]
Charging ports exist in two flavors: charging downstream ports (CDP), supporting data transfers as well, and dedicated charging ports (DCP), without data support. A portable device can recognize the type of USB port from the way the D+ and D- pins are connected. For example, on a dedicated charging port, the D+ and D- pins are [color=rgb(102, 51, 102)]shorted[/color][color=rgb(11, 0, 128)]. With charging downstream ports, current passing through the thin ground wire may interfere with high-speed data signals. Therefore, current draw may not exceed 900 mA during high-speed data transfer. A dedicated charge port may have a rated current between 500 and 1500 mA. There is no upper limit for the rated current of a charging downstream port, as long as the connector can handle the current (standard USB 2.0 A-connectors are rated at 1500 mA).[/color]
Before the battery charging specification was defined, there was no standardized way for the portable device to inquire how much current was available. For example, Apple's [color=rgb(11, 0, 128)]iPod[/color][color=rgb(11, 0, 128)] and [/color][color=rgb(11, 0, 128)]iPhone[/color][color=rgb(11, 0, 128)] chargers indicate the available current by voltages on the D- and D+ lines. When D+ = D- = 2V, the device may pull up to 500 mA. When D+ = 2.0 V and D- = 2.8 V, the device may pull up to 1000 mA of current.[/color][color=rgb(11, 0, 128)][52][/color][color=rgb(11, 0, 128)] When D+ = 2.8 V and D- = 2.0 V, the device may pull up to 2000 mA of current. [/color][color=rgb(11, 0, 128)][53][/color]

I wonder what the schematic would be for a universal quick charger that would allow the full 1.5a for both Android and apple devices ?

[alexanderfitu]

It would be difficult add the android devices need the data lines need shorting and Apple devices need to see a voltage on them. Maybe a pic?

Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk 2

[simonm]

You'd probably need a mechanical switch which either shorts the data or puts some resistors inline.  None of which is cheap or waterproof.  Maybe a better suggestion is the cigarette lighter or modded and labelled cables ?


Blooming apple always making things difficult.

[alexanderfitu]

Yeah the switch method would work. I knew they are such a pain! However one rider is unlikely to have both an iPhone and an android device, ask they need to do is make the correct cable for their device.

On mine I have a usb car charger hard wired into sw12v. Then I just plug the cable into it for what I need. (Most of the time it's the day been cable). Lives under the seat.

Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk 2

[FuZzBoM]

I have one of these. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181089604341?s...1497.l2649

due to its design gives many mounting options. the back bit unscrews so you could drill a hole and mount it to bodywork etc. and has both the 12v socket and the usb bit so best of both worlds.

[simonm]

I've gone back to basics at the moment and have a long usb cable tie wrapped to the frame and a 12v accessory socket with a twin output usb adapter (one for the SGS3 which I store under the seat and use for mytracks and another for the tomtom on the handlebars).


I went out with the lofo's at the weekend and was stunned at how hot it got.


Am thinking of replacing it with a buck converter ([size=78%]https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buck_converter[/size]) as it should be more efficient and generate less heat.


Thoughts ?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC12V-to-5V-4-...1c333ef21e

[AdieR]

I simply have 2x cig lighter sockets wired in via a fuse and a switch "donated" from a cheap set of heated grips.
Most sat navs and phone car chargers have cig lighter plugs anyway (and drop to 5V within its own circuitry for the USB connection).

Mine isn't pretty (it were thrown on in a rush for a long trip last year), but it does work and it's straightforward and simple.