FZS 600 Oversteer

[darrsi]

I think what His Dudeness means is are the forks flush at the top, or poking up a bit above the yoke, where the forks are clamped?

[spoonlamp]

I think what His Dudeness means is are the forks flush at the top, or poking up a bit above the yoke, where the forks are clamped?

Ah I get you. Looks like they have the same slight bit as my last one did. Let me see if I can attach wee photie...

[darrsi]

What's that, about 5mm?
Shouldn't be an issue at all.

[unfazed]

That is normal as the raised bit is the fork caps. The line under the caps should be in in with the top of the yolk.
I would suggest you remove the forks, drain the oil and replace it with 10w and ensure you have an air gap of 121mm (4.75inches), that air gap is more important than many think. The air gap is checked after filling the fork leg with oil and before replacing the springs and spacers with the fork leg fully compressed standing upright. The distance the oil is from the top of the fork leg should be 121mm. More than 121mm will make the forks feel softer and less than121mm will make them feel harder. I usually fill the fork a bit more than is needed and then using a syringe with a tube at the end cut to the length I require and resting it on the top of the fork leg suck out the excess oil. Repeat the process for the second leg. Then replace the springs spacers and fork cap.
A word of advice loosen the top clamp bolt before loosening the fork cap and tighten the fork cap before tightening the top clamp bolt.
Forgot to add the air gap is 132mm (5.2 inches) in the models with fork adjusters,

[Lumpy]

ime with the dude on this one ...check the size of your front tyre!!....should be a 110/70...anything else will/can cause you probs?...

WALOB!

[darrsi]

Say what you mean Lumpy  :rollin

[Lumpy]

Say what you mean Lumpy  :rollin

eek. I thought that was subtle but to the point  :'(

[unfazed]

One item forgotton here is the rear shock. Is it standard or after market.
If standard adjust the preload to the hardest position and try the bike to see if it has improved. this makes th e bike sit higher at the rear putting more weight on the front
A soft rear shock can take the weight of the front and make it more difficult to turn in.
If it is aftermarket adjust the preload to make it sit higher at the rear.turn it one ring at the time (tighten the spring) to see if it improves.Trial and error so may take a few trys to get it right.
Usually the static sag start point is 25 mm at the front and 12mm at the rear.

[spoonlamp]

Check the tyres. A squared off rear makes it harder to turn in.

You and the Dudeness had it bang on. I just put a new front tyre on and she's back to her beautiful smooth cornering 

[packie]

[quote author=darrsi link=topic=5270.msg46063#msg46063 date=1352891720]
I'd still check the fork oil.......  :rolleyes

would be a bit awkward to do though wouldn't it? he'd have to take the forks out just to check the oil. if you're going down that route you might as well replace the oil
[/quote]


I owned a bike once (can't remember now) that had a little philips screw on the bottom of each leg that allowed complete draining of the fork.....very handy.

[kebab19]

Steering head bearings too tight / too loose / banjaxed?

[spoonlamp]

[quote author=BBROWN1664 link=topic=5270.msg45853#msg45853 date=1352738519]
Check the tyres. A squared off rear makes it harder to turn in.

You and the Dudeness had it bang on. I just put a new front tyre on and she's back to her beautiful smooth cornering 
[/quote]


Problem solved, many thanks for the help . If threads can be deleted, feel free 

[Dead Eye]

The information here may assist people with similar issues in the future, its worth keeping it around

[spoonlamp]

The information here may assist people with similar issues in the future, its worth keeping it around

Good point, well presented.
Carry on  :lol