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Thinking about going up and down some teeth
#1
Hi guys so I am thinking of going up some teeth on the back and down maybe 1 on the front.

Can anyone give me any pointers for going down? I have heard it isn't good going down on the front sprocket but better to go up on the back sprocket. How many would you say go up/down?
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#2
I'm intending to do the same but haven't checked what I've currently got fitted yet.


As I understand it, the problem with going down on the front is that the chain will run closer to the swing arm but if you go up on the back you'll be increasing clearance. As a rule of thumb 1 down on the front is roughly the same as 3 up on back (but I'm happy to be corrected if anyone knows better).


With regards to how far to go, it really depends on what you intend to do on the bike. I mostly use mine for Motogymkhana and a 7 mile commute so I'm happy to go quite a lot way with the change so I'm thinking 2up on the rear and 1 down on the front. If nothing else, I figure I'll win the traffic light GPs  Wink
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#3
I would like to go 1 down 2 up. I would like to have a little wheelie machine lol I want to practise them Tongue
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#4
Have down geared mine, (-1, +1) it gives much better pull from lower down, where before I dare not let it drop below 3k revs idm going to 2k now. I'm currently 33bhp and front will hover under power in first, easy enough to clutch it up properly. Makes town riding a lot easier.

Oh and it's a ballache to find anything above +1 on rear, good luck.
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#5
GONE PLUS 1 ON THE FRONT. It does pull the tyre close to the hugger on a new tyre though but 60mpg is normal and still performs more than adequately. Going down 3 on the rear would do the same.

For more revs and peakier acceleration consider a 2 tooth up on the rear form standard. I find the standard gearing means its revving its tits off at 100 anyway, hence the change in gearing for me.

If you want to wheelie everywhere go up 4 at the back and watch for the 8k revs  :lol  this will mean you may need to shorten the chain of move the hugger tho.
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#6
(04-10-12, 08:20 AM)Lumpy link Wrote: If you want to wheelie everywhere go up 4 at the back and watch for the 8k revs  :lol  this will mean you may need to shorten the chain of move the hugger tho.

Sorry to be picky, but I think you mean "lengthen" the chain.
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#7
I've checked my gearing and it's standard 15/48 so I'm going to order 14/50 tonight.


Currently 60mph is 5,000 revs so I'll let you know how bad/good the new gearing is the not too distant future if you can wait.
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#8
(04-10-12, 07:54 PM)trudd link Wrote: I've checked my gearing and it's standard 15/48 so I'm going to order 14/50 tonight.


Currently 60mph is 5,000 revs so I'll let you know how bad/good the new gearing is the not too distant future if you can wait.


I wouldn't you should never have even even or odd odd. you should always have even and odd. if you don't the chain will go over each tooth and never over any others thus causing un even chain wear.
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#9
(04-10-12, 08:31 PM)xlewisbdx link Wrote: I wouldn't you should never have even even or odd odd. you should always have even and odd. if you don't the chain will go over each tooth and never over any others thus causing un even chain wear.




I've never heard that before and I'm not sure it's true (although I'm happy to be proved wrong). My FJ1200 standard gearing is 17,39 and the SV650N is 15,45.
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#10
I got told that from a mechanic Smile
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#11
I'm intrigued by this so have done some surfing and found quite a few bikes with odd odd or even even as standard gearing so I don't think it's true but your mechanic obviously believes it so he must have some reasoning for the comment.
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#12
(04-10-12, 07:48 PM)limax2 link Wrote: [quote author=Lumpy link=topic=4864.msg41737#msg41737 date=1349335258]
If you want to wheelie everywhere go up 4 at the back and watch for the 8k revs  :lol  this will mean you may need to shorten the chain of move the hugger tho.

Sorry to be picky, but I think you mean "lengthen" the chain.
[/quote]oh yes, the fat finger syndrome and quick typing got the better of me. Lengthen the chain OR move the hugger. Cheers. Derbrain me  :o
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#13
(04-10-12, 08:31 PM)xlewisbdx link Wrote: [quote author=trudd link=topic=4864.msg41823#msg41823 date=1349376855]
I've checked my gearing and it's standard 15/48 so I'm going to order 14/50 tonight.


Currently 60mph is 5,000 revs so I'll let you know how bad/good the new gearing is the not too distant future if you can wait.


I wouldn't you should never have even even or odd odd. you should always have even and odd. if you don't the chain will go over each tooth and never over any others thus causing un even chain wear.
[/quote]that's not really the case, it's sprocket wear that may cause an issue but also unlikely. The idea is that the same roller on the chain will hit the same sprocket teeth every third rotation of the front in the case of 15/45 but in reality it never causes and issue. Certainly chain wear is not influenced by this as it is the side links and pins that wear and cause the stretch not the rollers. The sprocket MAY wear oddly but it's very unlikely unless you don't lubricate the chain at all and use a bolloxed chain.
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#14
If we're talking mk1 600 here, a 14 front and 50 rear won't need a different chain.

You will lose top end but not an issue if going streetfighter route cos its near impossible to hold on for more than a minute or 2 over 110.

It's takes off fast but you need to change into 2nd quickly or you'll be revving the tits off it in no time. It's almost like there's no first gear. It just means to get to 2nd where the power kicks in
You will likely sacrifice economy in fuel, but so whit, its a fuckin hilarity.
Smell ones mother. Yaas!
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