Hi all, as i often get flashed by car drivers i decided maybe i should get my preload setup correctly. does anyone know if each increment of adjustment has a weight guide at all? i am 6'3 and about 17 stone fully kitted up. it is adjusted 2 from top but i still get flashed. (in truth it does light road signs up) is it worth me going the extra 2 notches or should i get another spring? spotted a hyperpro for about £85 so thought that might be worth the investment.
cheers for your thoughts..
Lord,
Grant me the WD-40 to move those things that are stuck, the Duck tape to fasten those things that are loose, And the wisdom to know the difference.
Amen
Definitely go to max preload and max compression damping. Set rebound to 4 clicks out from max.
Then go get a spring rated for your weight. The standard spring is OK for riders up to about 14st in kit. Yes, feeble but a fact.
The Hyperpro ain't bad but you need something a bit firmer again. Straight rate, not progressive, and have the shock overhauled (new gas and oil) when you have the spring changed. You need the rebound damping to be at its best to cope with the stronger spring.
thanks for the quick reply. i will keep those settings in mind go adjust shortly. i think the shock itself should be ok. it is a 51 plate but only has 7000 miles on the clock. 2000 of these are by me since March.
I had a Hyperpro on my 600 an was very impressed with it. i have seen the R6 shock mod but it looks kinda expensive.
what spring should i consider?
Lord,
Grant me the WD-40 to move those things that are stuck, the Duck tape to fasten those things that are loose, And the wisdom to know the difference.
Amen
Preload now at max and rebound 4 from top. that was set to about standard i would guess.
I will test on my ride to work tomorrow and let you know if its any better. cheers again
Lord,
Grant me the WD-40 to move those things that are stuck, the Duck tape to fasten those things that are loose, And the wisdom to know the difference.
Amen
It may be marginally better, but that's all I'd hope for.
The oil in the shock gets tired quick and a good few owners have found the damping noticeably reduced in as little as 10k miles. That's why I recommended getting the oil and gas changed while the spring is off. Your call but IMHO, a false economy to leave it as it is now. 
Is it possible to home rebuild or will i need to send it off somewhere?
What spring would you suggest if not the hyperpro?
thanks,
Lord,
Grant me the WD-40 to move those things that are stuck, the Duck tape to fasten those things that are loose, And the wisdom to know the difference.
Amen
Any reputable suspension specialist will be able to offer you advice on the ideal spring rate to fit and do the oil and gas change. It's not a job you can do yourself.
K-tech & MH Racing are well-known to regulars on this forum.
Check out the R6 shock mod thread.
Admittedly I'm not a Gen 1 owner, but can't help thinking there must be a simpler way to adjust headlight aim on them. :lol
Yes, I should have mentioned the R6 mod option. Well worth considering although a bit more expensive than a re-spring & refurb.
I have seen the threads on the R6 shock mod but the first rule of 6 shock mod is no one divulges the price of R6 shock mod :lol
The bike passed the mot with the light adjusted where it i but this fat git isn't on it at the point of mot. :rolleyes
Lord,
Grant me the WD-40 to move those things that are stuck, the Duck tape to fasten those things that are loose, And the wisdom to know the difference.
Amen
Fuzzbom,have a look at my post on the s1000rr shock mod http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,4041....l#msg33026
I went out yesterday with the suggested settings and it does indeed feel much better. Trying to keep up with my mate on his 998 wasn't so good lol. Down the straights not a problem. round the bends he can carry much more speed. but then that is to be expected.
I have seen the s1000rr shock thread jinx but all of these style mods worry me a little. when you need drill things and change dog bones to get the ride height back surely that messes with damping rates and geometry etc.
Sorry if i sound like a cynic but i work in IT and us lot are generally a sceptical bunch lol
I am much more happy with it now so i may leave it for a while and see if something comes along.
Cheers for the help though. much appreciated
Lord,
Grant me the WD-40 to move those things that are stuck, the Duck tape to fasten those things that are loose, And the wisdom to know the difference.
Amen
Can you keep up with your mate better or worse before you moved settings?
Although for a fat foccer max preload is a no brainer :lol
(02-09-12, 09:07 AM)FuZzBoM link Wrote: I have seen the s1000rr shock thread jinx but all of these style mods worry me a little. when you need drill things and change dog bones to get the ride height back surely that messes with damping rates and geometry etc.
Sorry if i sound like a cynic but i work in IT and us lot are generally a sceptical bunch lol
FWIW, I've run an Ohlins shock for a good few years but took it off this Spring to get it serviced. In its place, I fitted an R6 shock with dogbones bought from Devilsyam. I haven't yet got around to having the Ohlins serviced but I guess that says I'm happy with the R6 shock option.
What you say about altering linkage geometry affecting rising rates and damping response is true. Fortunately, the R6 mod doesn't seem to induce any problems as a result of the changes.
R6 shock kit from Devilsyam bolts straight in! I had mine jacked up slightly with shorter(?) dog bones, now my h/light beam is too low! Much cheaper option than Ohlins etc and very effective, cost to me including postage was £225, if your local to Devilsyam it'll be cheaper to pick it up. Or if you can find the correct r6 shock, I think Luke will do a fitting kit, tho to be honest his shocks are brand new and very good value. Quite possibly after you buy the hyper pro spring and then get the shock refurbed etc it'll be a close run thing in price. The bonus of the r6 shock is more adjustment (I think). Hope this helps
Fuzzbom
I will soon have a refurbed standard shock with a H yperpro spring as surplus. Give me a PM if your interested
Jeffco
Why dont you just adjust the headlights. Simples !!
Mike Lockyer
Because i am unsure how that stands from an MOT perspective.. it passed last time OK but this fat git isn't sat on at the time. if i adjust it will it be to low for an MOT???
Do they even do the light box test like they do on a car?
Lord,
Grant me the WD-40 to move those things that are stuck, the Duck tape to fasten those things that are loose, And the wisdom to know the difference.
Amen
(19-09-12, 01:49 PM)FuZzBoM link Wrote: It passed last time OK but this fat git isn't sat on at the time. If i adjust it will it be to low for an MOT???
If your weight makes such a big difference to the attitude of the bike, passing MOT is the least of your worries. The bike should sag pretty much evenly front - rear.
It's been a while since I put a bike through a UK MOT but IIRC, the beam checker unit is moved up/down until it aligns with the centre of the beam. They check for lateral alignment to make sure the dipped element of the beam is where it should be.
If there's major concern about the vertical setting the tester should mention it and if rider weight is a factor, you could discuss that point with him.
The more important thing for you to do is to get the spring preload set correctly for your weight, upgunning the springs if you max out the stock items.
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