Front Brakes

[philshaq]

Hi,


I've noticed that the front brakes have quite a bit of travel on them. Not impressed with the brakes really, so I'm guessing the pads need changing so I thought I'd check the pads (all ok so far) but for some reason, when slackening off the brake calliper bolts I put the socket on the bolt holding the brake hose banjo, I know I'm an idiot!  :'(


I only slackened it a small bit before I looked at what I was doing, tightened it back up and it seems fine (small amount of fluid leaked out, but level is fine). So first question is, is it likely that any air has got into the system and do I need to change / top up the fluid?


Second question is, do the pads have wear indicators on them? By the looks of the ones I've seen on wemoto here they have groves in them, well the ones on mine have no groves but look to still have a bit of depth left in them, are they past their useful life?


Thanks in advance for all the comments, even the ones calling me a dunce!


Phil

[dickturpin]

I've done the same thing!
You will know if there is air in the system if you can 'pump up' the brake lever.
I ended up bleeding mine and it really isn't that difficult.


D

[bigsteve]

Hi
I wouldn't take the risk just bleed brakes for safety sack and if your unsure about front pads same again replace them

The last thing you need is a  failure  :eek

[philshaq]

Cheers for the replies guys. I'll probably get some pads and fluid this weekend and top it up / bleed them and change the pads.



Thanks

[keno]

If the pads still have some material still on then don't bother buying new ones,but if you have slackened the banjo on the hose i would bleed the brakes its only a 20 minute job.Also try adjusting the lever there are 4 different positions you can use,just push the lever away from you and turn the dial to what suits.
Gnasher may be along shortly he's probably the best with brake advice.

[darrsi]

If you think the pads need changing, then they probably do, so just do them anyway!

And if you got air in the system, then the lever will feel spongy, and the lever will possibly pull back much further than it should towards your fingers. If all is good it shouldn't pull back more than about 25% at most. Saying that, i always have the dial on the lever set to number 1.

The fact that you're saying you're not impressed with the brakes suggests to me that they're not actually functioning properly.

[markbubble]

the brakes are fantastic on these bikes so something sounds amiss,if the fluid hasnt been changed for a while then do it anyway,its a 20 min job to change it all and bleed it all up,it could be that you have a sticking piston or air in the system etc if there not great and possible the rubber hose is past its best ,iv just rebuilt the back one on mine and much improved with new piston seals,pads,new hose etc but my fronts are great still,bleeding brakes is simple all you need is some new fluid and a jar(jam jar etc)and small piece of hose clear if possible,the worst bit is if the bleed nipples are rusted shut !

[philshaq]

quick update; I decided to keep the pads after speaking to the local bike shop about the amount of depth left on them and instead opted to bleed the brakes and pull some new fluid through first and see how they felt after that.


I seemed to get quite a bit of air out of the left calliper and made sure I'd flushed enough fluid through both sides to replace old with new. I know its been looked after before I owned it, but peace of mind and all that...



Just got back from a quick run out to test them and they are 100 times better. Really firm progressive power.


Thanks for the advice guys.

[markbubble]

great stuf glad you got sorted and for almost free! and you learned how to bleed them now go have some fun but dont grab a handfull in the wet or on a diesel patch!

[b3tarev3]

Hi Phil,


Just to let you know the brake pads have less than 1000miles on them, brake fluid (front and back) was changed Feb this year, oil and filters May this year and the coolant was changed in Jan this year.


Personally i thought the brakes were the mutts nuts, never gave me any cause for concern.

quick update; I decided to keep the pads after speaking to the local bike shop about the amount of depth left on them and instead opted to bleed the brakes and pull some new fluid through first and see how they felt after that.


I seemed to get quite a bit of air out of the left calliper and made sure I'd flushed enough fluid through both sides to replace old with new. I know its been looked after before I owned it, but peace of mind and all that...



Just got back from a quick run out to test them and they are 100 times better. Really firm progressive power.


Thanks for the advice guys.

[philshaq]

cheers for the response b3. I ended up changing the fluid in the front. Probably best after I'd slackened off the banjo by mistake!


They feel a lot more solid now, maybe just a preference thing or something was played with when it was standing after you traded it in...


Thanks for confirming when the fluids were changed, I was going to ask you before I rolled up my sleeves, but you've saved me a job!


I hope you don't think I was having a sly dig, just getting to grips with the bike!

[b3tarev3]

LOL no  :lol  [size=78%]j[/size][size=78%]ust trying to save you some expense. [/size]

cheers for the response b3. I ended up changing the fluid in the front. Probably best after I'd slackened off the banjo by mistake!


They feel a lot more solid now, maybe just a preference thing or something was played with when it was standing after you traded it in...


Thanks for confirming when the fluids were changed, I was going to ask you before I rolled up my sleeves, but you've saved me a job!


I hope you don't think I was having a sly dig, just getting to grips with the bike!

[His Dudeness]

at 1000 miles the pads should have barely a sliver taken off them