Question: clock lighting & rear brake.

[b1k3rdude]

Got to minor issues I am looking to sort -

1. The lighting in the clocks is dimmer than it has been on other FZS1000's I have owned, is there a know connector and/or wire/s in the front fairing loom that I need to clean and/or upgrade..?

2. The have always found the rear brake to be far too sharp for its own good, what have people done to dumb/reduce down the perf of said brake..? I'm thinking of lowering the pedal position and also getting the worst pads I can find..?

ta.

[AdieR]

You say your clock lights are dimmer than most; is it possible you've got the wrong bulb/s fitted (I'm assuming you have bulbs and not LEDs)? Have they always been that way, or is it a recent problem (how long have you had the bike)?

[b1k3rdude]

You say your clock lights are dimmer than most; is it possible you've got the wrong bulb/s fitted (I'm assuming you have bulbs and not LEDs)? Have they always been that way, or is it a recent problem (how long have you had the bike)?

Its been like that since I bought it and I haven't had the clocks of to check for sure, but I would imagine there are those normal mini 12v bulbs in there. The other thing I forgot to mention is that when the indicators are going I can see the headlight and the clocks slightly dimming, which is what made me think I have a bad connection and or a wire in the front sub loom that's not thick enough to do the job. If it was just the clocks I would replace them all with LED (which I may do anyway)

[bikerboys]

had the led's on my 600 got to say I found the too dim and changed for these I am well happy I do know if the clock are the same on the 1000 .

have a look at these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/190690759416? 

[AdieR]

It's not just voltages that are significant, but the wattages of the bulbs as well (this determines current levels, which is of more significance than voltages). If your lights are dimming with the indicators, my thought would be an earth problem somewhere (corrosion increases the resistance of flow back to the battery).

[b1k3rdude]

my thought would be an earth problem somewhere

If the weather holds over the weekend I'll get the front fairing off and the multimeter out top trace where the v-drop is occurring then.

[b1k3rdude]

Well as it turns out its a V-drop inside the clocks, the neutral bulb being the worst @10.5v. The headlight bulbs were all fine 12.8v ign on and 13.6v engine running. I did fine some corrosion inside the 16 way connector under the left hand fairing panel, but it was only on two pins that weren't power carrying.