Clutch drag

[Jamieg285]

I think my clutch cable is correctly adjusted. As per the Haynes manual, there is a few mm of play before the clutch starts to pull.


With the clutch lever pulled all the way in, the clutch is still dragging, turning the back wheel (when on centre stand). It's not by much, it only takes a light touch on the wheel to stop it.


It doesn't give me any trouble when riding, but I do wonder if it will lead to premature wear on the clutch.


Is this normal? Acceptable?

[darrsi]

Could just be a stretched cable, d'ya know when it was last changed?
Any drag of the clutch is not acceptable because it will just get worn out, unless that is actually the reason already?
If you're sure there's no more adjustment i would start with a new clutch cable, but order a Yamaha OEM one from Fowlers of Bristol, not an Ebay jobbie. (have your chassis number ready, they will ask for it), unless you're fortunate enough to have a dealer near you with one in stock? If it's not in stock they'll ring Fowlers anyway so may as well cut out the middle man!

[dazza]

Mine does this too, personally I thought this was normal but if it's not I'm sure Iwill be corrected

[limax2]

What you describe sounds perfectly normal. There is always bound to be a certain amount of drag from a clutch running in oil. I would be more worried if it wasn't turning the back wheel when on the centre stand as that would indicate excessive drag on the back brake etc.

[AdieR]

I'm assuming you're using the right oil for the bike - using the wrong oil can cause clutch drag (or indeed, clutch slip).

Not sure if my FZ does it (I'll try it later and see and post the outcome), bear in mind though that on the C/stand, there's no resistance on the back wheel to stop it (off the stand, the bike won't move due to the weight until the clutch properly bites).

[Jamieg285]

I'm assuming you're using the right oil for the bike - using the wrong oil can cause clutch drag (or indeed, clutch slip).

Don't know what the oil is, as I've not changed it since getting the bike a couple of months ago (~700 miles). The bike had a dealer service a couple of weeks before I bought it, so I assume they put the right stuff in.

[Dead Eye]

Just my two scents, but mine doesn't do this. Back wheel is free - spins 2+ times from a good push so the back brake definitely isn't binding.

[Pickle]

This is normal when the engine is cold but should stop when up to temp.


Bob

[limax2]

Just my two scents, but mine doesn't do this. Back wheel is free - spins 2  times from a good push so the back brake definitely isn't binding.

I stand corrected  :o . Inspired by your two cents worth I gave mine a try today. With a cold engine and in first gear with clutch pulled fully in the back wheel didn't move at all on tickover. When revved a bit the wheel very slowly rotated, probably helped by the vibration.
Like yours Dead Eye the wheel is free enough, but I guess the resistance of the chain over the swinging arm protector and drag from the oil seals etc is enough to overcome the slight drag of the clutch. I'm was surprised at this, but I guess the clunk when you engage first gear always made me think that  clutch drag was the cause.

[dazza]

Ditto

[misterjayb1]

My wheel doesnt rotate hot or cold when on centrestand and yes i can spin the wheel freely.. 

[Jamieg285]

If you're sure there's no more adjustment i would start with a new clutch cable, but order a Yamaha OEM one from Fowlers of Bristol, not an Ebay jobbie.

What's wrong with going non-OEM?  Is it a specific issue with clutch cables, or do you just recommend OEM in general?

[misterjayb1]

Whether it be a genuine Yamaha item or not a replacement Clutch cable would not alter the problem as post does quote the cable is adjusted correctly with couple mil play at the lever end..

[His Dudeness]

its normal 

[darrsi]

OEM clutch cables just tend to feel and last better in my opinion.


But as has been suggested, i'm not sure that you've actually got a problem?  :rolleyes