The front sprocket nut and washer saga

[Chris]

Went to my local yamaha supplier, long story short I couldn't have it for free but they only charged me £2.44 for it so can't complain at that, cost me about the same in petrol to go and fetch it. haha.

[darrsi]

I'm gonna be changing my chain/sprockets soon, as well as my rear disc (which has seized bolts again  ) and was wondering if the agreed torque for the new sprocket nut was around the 80Nm mark, with a bit of Loctite thrown in for good measure?
I noticed that it has been advised by Yamaha that it should be 90Nm but i don't really want to push my luck!

[Dead Eye]

Mine is currently on at 90Nm with no thread lock - simply because I didn't have any at the time. Nut is still present

[packie]

I'm gonna be changing my chain/sprockets soon, as well as my rear disc (which has seized bolts again  ) and was wondering if the agreed torque for the new sprocket nut was around the 80Nm mark, with a bit of Loctite thrown in for good measure?
I noticed that it has been advised by Yamaha that it should be 90Nm but i don't really want to push my luck!

I was going to torque up to 90nm myself, but after getting to about 80nm, I got a feel on the pressure that if I pushed it any further, it would have stripped the threads. So i have about 70-80nm, locktite and some wire on the outside acting as a precaution.

So Darrsi...I'd say use your judgement too when doing it and don't go at it hammer n tongs.

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

[darrsi]

It's not gonna be me doing it, i've decided to let the bike shop change my rear disc after the nightmare i had last time, so i'll get the sprockets and chain done at the same time while the wheel's off.
Unfortunately i need the bike all the time for work so rather than me hit a brick wall through lack of tools or sheer frustration it's better that they do it for me and get it right first time!

[packie]

Unfortunately i need the bike all the time for work so rather than me hit a brick wall through lack of tools or sheer frustration it's better that they do it for me and get it right first time!

Ha ha...wishful thinking!....even bike shops can fail to get it right first time!!

[Enceladus]

just spotted this.
no idea if my bike has had this done or not.
got a rough idea (and i mean rough!) where to look etc, but can someone explain really simply so that an idiot like me can understand!
thanks

[darrsi]

[quote author=darrsi link=topic=3710.msg65373#msg65373 date=1364227436]
Unfortunately i need the bike all the time for work so rather than me hit a brick wall through lack of tools or sheer frustration it's better that they do it for me and get it right first time!

Ha ha...wishful thinking!....even bike shops can fail to get it right first time!!
[/quote]
They're not too bad where i go, and if they mess it up then at least i know i would've messed it up even more!!

[Dead Eye]

just spotted this.
no idea if my bike has had this done or not.
got a rough idea (and i mean rough!) where to look etc, but can someone explain really simply so that an idiot like me can understand!
thanks

Just remove the black cover that is just above and forward of the gear selector - if you are unsure its the one where the chain disappears behind it. Should be a nut holding the sprocket on and it will be incredibly obvious. If it isn't there then worry, if it is, then you're probably fine All you need is a 10mm spanner / socket plus an Allen key - no idea what size, but I think its about 5mm? I have about 4 sets and have managed to mix them up so I just try until I get the right size

[darrsi]

[quote author=Enceladus link=topic=3710.msg65381#msg65381 date=1364229417]
just spotted this.
no idea if my bike has had this done or not.
got a rough idea (and i mean rough!) where to look etc, but can someone explain really simply so that an idiot like me can understand!
thanks

Just remove the black cover that is just above and forward of the gear selector - if you are unsure its the one where the chain disappears behind it. Should be a nut holding the sprocket on and it will be incredibly obvious. If it isn't there then worry, if it is, then you're probably fine All you need is a 10mm spanner / socket plus an Allen key - no idea what size, but I think its about 5mm? I have about 4 sets and have managed to mix them up so I just try until I get the right size
[/quote]


"...Should be a nut..."  :lol

[limax2]

just spotted this.
no idea if my bike has had this done or not.
got a rough idea (and i mean rough!) where to look etc, but can someone explain really simply so that an idiot like me can understand!
thanks

Just to add you will need to remove the small gear change lever before you can remove the cover (10mm spanner required). Make a note of its possition, but there should be a small punch mark on the end of the shaft that lines up with the slot in the lever. The clutch cable going into the top of the cover remains in the cover as you remove it. Not a difficult job as long as you remove all the socket head bolts, five from memory, not forgetting one at the back that goes between the top and bottom chain runs. Also don't loose the two hollow dowel tubes that usually stay in the cover, but can fall out.
You can actually see the nut without removing anything if you sight along the top run of the chain and shine a torch into the gap behind the cover. It works better if you are in a darkish place. (Physically I mean, not mentally  ). You can't tell from this if it is loose at all and without experience if it has the thicker nut.

[Enceladus]

thanks
darrsi has to have the best reply
will have a look tonight if i get the chance.

[Dave48]

Just to add my own experience: Collected 03 Foxeye 2 wks ago-it came with a new chain fitted but, although rear sprocket is good, when I managed to get the front cover off found I had the 9mm nut & a useless lockwasher,holding on a very worn/hooked aftermarket sprocket. Yamaha dealer supplied the modified 12mm nut &  lockwasher  for £2-44 & I bought an official Yamaha sprocket for £29. At least the old one was tight-had to put an extension pipe on the socket handle to get it to loosen. Didn't bother replacing pointless paper gasket-cleaned loads of crap(10 years worth?) from the cover and engine case, relubed clutch thrust assy & hey presto-nice smooth clutch action and transmission free of jerks/snatching. Torqued the nut to 75nm. Theres a world of difference between the proper Yamaha sprocket with built in plastic/rubber cushioning & the cheap item now winging its way back to Chinese steelworks courtesy of our local scrap man :lol

[elbrownos]

Never done it myself so I'm no expert but don't you need to replace the chain & sprockets as a set?

[Dead Eye]

Ideally yes, you should replace them as a set. Otherwise you can find that old sprockets will wear a new chain down pretty fast and vice versa I believe

[unfazed]

Never done it myself so I'm no expert but don't you need to replace the chain & sprockets as a set?

I agree,
I always replace 3 front sprockets to one chain and rear sprockets and chain and rear sprocket last in excess of 40000miles.
Replacing the ful set everytime the front is a bit worn is totally unnecesssary. The front sprocket wears 3 times faster than the rear (15 teeth to 45 teeth). A well looked after chain will need the front replacing around the 10000 mile mark. That is about £21 for 3 sprockets compared to £150 to £200 for a full set.
I am on my third front sprocket with 39000 miles on the chain and rear sprocket with little or no chain lift off the rear sprocket.

[Dave48]

The shop I bought bike from had fitted a new "gold" chain-probably the cheapest they could find. Rear sprocket has good teeth profile & as said wears at a slower rate than front. The front cheapo aftermarket sprocket had severe hooking of teeth(in direction of travel ie anticlockwise) .When I first rode the bike I was aware that all was not 100%. I will be looking at cush drive rubbers if there is any slop remaining in system. Correct chain tension neither too tight nor too slack & regular cleaning & lubing extends the life of these items amazingly-although there are times when I reminisce about my old shaft drive Honda!-less mess & trouble but if I kept my hands oil-free would I be a "plastic biker"? :lol

[darrsi]

The shop I bought bike from had fitted a new "gold" chain-probably the cheapest they could find. Rear sprocket has good teeth profile & as said wears at a slower rate than front. The front cheapo aftermarket sprocket had severe hooking of teeth(in direction of travel ie anticlockwise) .When I first rode the bike I was aware that all was not 100%. I will be looking at cush drive rubbers if there is any slop remaining in system. Correct chain tension neither too tight nor too slack & regular cleaning & lubing extends the life of these items amazingly-although there are times when I reminisce about my old shaft drive Honda!-less mess & trouble but if I kept my hands oil-free would I be a "plastic biker"? :lol

I changed the cush drive rubbers on mine last year, and to be honest they are made of such solid rubber that when i looked at the old one's they were more or less like new as well. I changed them anyway as i had the wheel off but it really was rather pointless to be honest.
I had a shaft drive Honda NTV600 for about 10 years prior to the Fazer, and i do miss not having to mess about with chains or scrub the rear wheel to clean any lube off it.
And my bike was white, which is why i'm so fond of Foxwood's white Fazer, it was such an easier colour to keep clean and stay looking clean.
My Fazer is black, and although it can look the nuts after a good clean, polish up and a bit of TLC, and is obviously faster and better looking than other coloured bikes, it can also look like shite again after just one downpour of rain  :'(

[wezdavo]

[quote author=elbrownos link=topic=3710.msg71737#msg71737 date=1366896145]
Never done it myself so I'm no expert but don't you need to replace the chain & sprockets as a set?

I agree,
I always replace 3 front sprockets to one chain and rear sprockets and chain and rear sprocket last in excess of 40000miles.
Replacing the ful set everytime the front is a bit worn is totally unnecesssary. The front sprocket wears 3 times faster than the rear (15 teeth to 45 teeth). A well looked after chain will need the front replacing around the 10000 mile mark. That is about £21 for 3 sprockets compared to £150 to £200 for a full set.
I am on my third front sprocket with 39000 miles on the chain and rear sprocket with little or no chain lift off the rear sprocket.
[/quote]

I do the same, as you say fronts wear at a higher rate..

[elbrownos]

Good to know.
How do you judge when the front sprocket needs replacing?
To change it, do you break the chain or loosen the rear axle bolts?