Downpipe removal....Snapped things....

[anutz]

And the block is coming along - little tricky still in the frame with the head studs in - but its just slow....


ALSO the patterned lines still left on the head and block, should i get ride of them, seems very smooth, at least to the touch

[Jules-C]

Don't try and get rid of the patterned machining marks.

Making a good job of it. Tricky doing the top of the block but just take your time. Much better spending extra hour now than finding problems later because you started to rush.

[anutz]

thanks!


Yes, i have read somewhere else to leave the marks


the head was easy as its out, the block as you say is a little more tricky, but another hour tonight and they will both be ready for a final wet and dry rub down

[fazersharp]

GOOD NEWS ---- for me anyway My nuts are off!!
After years of reading these posts about snapped studs I knew that sooner or later I would need to swap my 17 year old exhaust, although the exhaust is ok for now I have been soaking me nuts in Kroil for 4 months carefully  getting behind the clamp with a syringe and a blunt needle, they are all back on now with copper grease and to 10NM except for the top inner one on the gear change side because I need a 150mm extension bar for my torque wrench.
I used a 1/4 inch set mostly but because I didnt have the 1/4 extension bar I had to use the 3/8 and 1/2 inch set but I just think you can too easily put too much pressure on with those sizes when undoing them nuts.
I would recommend you use a 1/4 socket set and you will need a 150mm extension bar for it as that last one - nothing else will fit between the exhaust and the hard rad pipe thingy, although I managed to do it up with a normal ring spanner at about 1/4 or less each turn.

I thought this the best place to tell my story as hopfully along with anutz story of woe it may help people in the future, it dose feel like a weight off my shoulders knowing that they are now ok as I would dread to have to go through what you have anutz. Perhaps it is a relevant detail to add that although the nuts have not been touched in 17 years the bike only has 18k on the clock and the last 14k of them has been in the dry only by me.   
   

[anutz]

"anutz story of woe"......


soon to be the "anutz story of success!!!!!"


:rollin

[fazersharp]

I thought I saw some stuff in screwfix  but canot find it now but i think it was like this http://www.ttproducts.com/freeze-off2.html and this http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-T5WN...wwodiYEApw
I wonder if they would be of use if you can warm the engine and then get around the back of the clamp to try and spray just the stud so the lubricant in the spray gos through the clamp holes to the back of the nut and at the same time shrinks just the stud

[anutz]

OK its alive!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Just turned it over and sounds lovely - well i think it does...


Putting a video up now!


Still need to clamp down the exhausts and the downpipes but its running!


Wohooo!

[anutz]

Video...

https://vimeo.com/126061790

[Dave48]

Video...

https://vimeo.com/126061790

Sounds healthy!
Just a thought... when you run the bike up to temperature then just progressively/gently tighten the exhaust header flange nuts to the recommended torque-its only a low figure 8-10 Nm fro memory but check! A 1/4" socket set with extension to clear pipes/frame is ideal. Dont want to go back to square one again :eek

[fazersharp]

[quote author=anutz link=topic=16432.msg192989#msg192989 date=1430077970]
Video...

https://vimeo.com/126061790

Sounds healthy!
Just a thought... when you run the bike up to temperature then just progressively/gently tighten the exhaust header flange nuts to the recommended torque-its only a low figure 8-10 Nm fro memory but check! A 1/4" socket set with extension to clear pipes/frame is ideal. Dont want to go back to square one again :eek
[/quote]

Yep see my reply back one page about that, I would also say do the two bolts together - so not just 1 at 10nm then the other as you will see the clamp pivot down to the one just tightened

[anutz]

I might just leave the all loose and let is scare the neighbours....

shall bit the bullet later tonight or tomorrow depends on time - but it will be a 1/2 a turn on each nut and plenty of patience....I do NOT want a repeat performance...it almost killed  me

I did learn a lot  :lol

[Jules-C]

Get some stainless steel dome nuts and you should never have to worry again.  If I ever get another bike the first mod I make will be to replace all the nuts/bolts from one end of exhaust to the other with stainless.

[Paulfzs]

WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO






Well done now do as above, dome nuts and enjoy the ride!

[ajmes1]

running the risk of scowls here, but I just managed to get the old downpipes off with not much stress, and only 24 hours of soaking in wilkos rip off wd40.


Is it worth putting some grease on the gaskets and the studs?

[bandit]

You can put a little bit of copper grease on the gaskets just to hold them in the ports whilst you align the downpipes into position, apply copper grease to the studs & if using the original nuts after tightening fill the open end with said grease to.

[ajmes1]

brill thanks for that, it's on the shopping to list pop and get get now then as only have standard grease!

[Jules-C]

Even standard bearing grease will be better than nothing

[ajmes1]

Brill, as I had to pop out i got some stainless nylock nuts to fit instead, but still gave the studs a really good brush.


Sounds and looks amazing!

[davey boy]

Just a thought but will the nylon in the nylock nut not melt with the heat

[ajmes1]

I hadn't thought of that, bugger.


I'll be looking to change them before long anyway as they were cheap shitty halfrauds nuts to get me on the road. Rounded three off while I was fitting them (luckily managed to get them off).


Will it be much of an issue?