Downpipe removal....Snapped things....
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Downpipe removal....Snapped things....
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06-04-15, 01:42 PM
Im sure the off centre one will be fine once you have filled the clamp hole to match so you end up with an elongated hole on the clamp--- once its done up its done up isint it
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
06-04-15, 01:56 PM
(06-04-15, 01:38 PM)anutz link Wrote: main one i would think is warping....also with my head, i know the cams and other things are all ok, the head was essentially fine, until i touched the studs... :rolleyes Head you don't know history of could be from bike run dry of oil and cam bearings shot, valve oil seals and guides could give problems. Could've been run dry of coolant and overheated and possibly warped. Or it could be in perfect condition.
08-04-15, 03:27 PM
Update - machine shop tried to repair the stud i drilled off center - blew the side out of the stud hole, so no luck there - unless i want to turn the clamps 90 degrees and get new holes drilled there i do not see what else is left to try - might be time to get a new head and hope it gives me no issues...
08-04-15, 04:46 PM
Quote:unless i want to turn the clamps 90 degrees and get new holes drilled there Do that then--- I think someone on here has done it like that
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
08-04-15, 05:00 PM
yep i stumbled across a post a while back where someone did that - will take it back down to the machine shop tomorrow and see what they can do
 in the mean time, i know we have earlier said cylinder heads when changed on their own can bring bad news, has anyone changed on and been fine?
08-04-15, 06:34 PM
Go for the 90 degree swap first got nothing to lose from it.
08-04-15, 08:58 PM
Hi,
You can use this product to repair the side of the stud hole: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JB-WELD-WORLDS...3cba661719 This is the original and takes 24hrs to cure you can get a fast cure version but i think it is too quick. But there is a new dispenser for the quick weld see here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JB-Kwik-Weld-2...4191b7ffe5 because it dispenses the correct quantity the time you have to play with the product may be better... Worth a try i would say, you can tap and drill it as it has metal impregnated in the adhesive... 
08-04-15, 09:08 PM
Why don't more people you use left hand drill bit, if you drill it off centre the heat is inclined to break the seal and spin it out.
08-04-15, 09:46 PM
hmm repairing the busted hole.....sounds interesting, and has been mentioned by a friend, but i am pretty sure the 90 degree rotation and drilling and tapping the holes will be a good result - and its something the machine house will be able to do for me quickly....
Might look to use the stuff you mention to "fill in" the busted area.....then can paint it black.... As for left handed drill bits, i struggle with right handed ones so i will take your word on it unfazed Current state: ![[Image: headdrilled_zpshqcazs0i.jpg]](http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy120/antz15/headdrilled_zpshqcazs0i.jpg) hopefully tomorrow i shall be able to post a picture with new stud holes in the new locations! :lol
09-04-15, 06:55 AM
Is the stud drilled out now? You could bring it to a welder and get the hole ali welded and drill and tap it again. Would be easy with the head off
09-04-15, 11:02 AM
stud is well and truly out... head is at the engine shop now getting new holes drilled and tapped, with the clamp rotated 90 degrees, so should be fine...its as if they were "blanks" made for this purpose shall update once i have it back... (09-04-15, 11:02 AM)anutz link Wrote: stud is well and truly out... I thought the same when I first saw them. Maybe it was Yamahas forward thinking for situations like this :lol Are they going to fill the drilled out hole or weld it??? what ever it is, i am glad they are there! not discussed what they will be doing with the drilled out hole, i shall give them a call in the morning and see if they can patch it up some how.... "mobile mouse" suggested this cold weld material earlier...but have not given it much thought yet, just want the new holes sorted , the below does look interesting(08-04-15, 08:58 PM)mobile mouse link Wrote: Hi,
09-04-15, 06:45 PM
Quote:I thought the same when I first saw them. Maybe it was Yamahas forward thinking for situations like this [img alt=:lol]http://foc-u.co.uk/Smileys/efocicon/lol.gif[/img] If that were the case then they would not of made the studs out of biscuit
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
09-04-15, 07:19 PM
(09-04-15, 06:45 PM)fazersharp link Wrote:Quote:I thought the same when I first saw them. Maybe it was Yamahas forward thinking for situations like this [img alt=:lol]http://foc-u.co.uk/Smileys/efocicon/lol.gif[/img] how much are fazer spares worth?
09-04-15, 11:06 PM
(09-04-15, 06:45 PM)fazersharp link Wrote:Quote:I thought the same when I first saw them. Maybe it was Yamahas forward thinking for situations like this [img alt=:lol]http://foc-u.co.uk/Smileys/efocicon/lol.gif[/img] Maybe that was the reason :lol
10-04-15, 02:16 PM
All,
Still waiting for the head to be looked at, but i am curious.. IF this cannot be save, should i replace the engine or just a new head, i know i have asked this earlier, there IS a risk of the new head being bad, but it could also be good, or could be tested and issues resolved... Anyone have any experience of doing either, and the issues faced? I have the air box out as well now and looking at it there is not much more to do if i wanted the engine out thanks
10-04-15, 09:33 PM
i was thinking the same....and i would make sure it was a full head i.e. Caps, Cams...the lot....then just the gasket would be new.....
The thing was i have been warned off doing just the head from a few friends, they have done a fair bit of work with car engines, not motorcycles... I know it could be warped, could have valve issues, but if it did not, or they were inspected....what would be the main issues? Anyone on here replaced just the head and been ok? |
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