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Multi-gauge Multi-buy?
#81
Whatever you do it helps.
With all lights up you need to deliver about 220W to the headlight. And back again! In both direction I would suggest to go for the 30A cable.


Concerning the multi-gauge, lately I became aware about a point which might not have been explained clearly enough yet: The MPG function / readout.
This function does not work without a signal from the fuel pump. And as such signal is not present in the cluster you first have to route a wire from the fuel pump towards the multi-gauge.
All details are explained in the next document:
http://cvieth.bplaced.net/MultiGauge_Ext...s_V8_1.pdf

Similar for the GPS function, it needs an extra module.
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#82
Sorry to be a dimwit. How does the gear indicator work ? or is it just a neutral indicator ?

i don't like the ones that work off speedo / rpm personally. seems like guesswork.

Cheers, DBo.
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#83
The gear indicator is indeed speed/rpm and seems to work very well, clutch in it doesn't know but as soon as it's out it's spot on.
My gps module(VK16HX @ £7 inc postage) arrived today, fitted in the clock housing well and setup dead easily, won't be able to play anymore for 2 weeks as going on holiday. Big Grin
Save the planet...It's the only one with beer!
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#84
Have you got any pics fitted? What does the gps function give you, does it just give your latitude and longitude?  Mine arrived today so I'm hoping to fit it next week.
Andy
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#85
It works based on speedo/rpm. And yes, it's guesswork. But it works very fine as long as you do not pull the clutch.

The speedo/rpm ratio is specific for each gear. The gauge compares this ratio to a stored table of scenarios and estimates the current gear. Once a gear is recognized and looks stable it locks to this gear. A lot of computing is done in the background to get a stable reading and filter false recognitions. I've optimized the algorithms over several years and always with focus on the Fazer. I guess it's fair to say that you won't find a gear indicator that works more perfect on this bike.

By nature this principle it not able to give proper readings at standstill or slipping clutch. But as long as the clutch is engaged it works perfect.

Besides, it offers much more functions than a simple gear indicator ..
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#86
Price like that has me tempted with the GPS addon. Might as well get full use from the device

was it this one Haddock? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/V-KEL-VK16HX-G...4180fd37f8


On another note, I was thinking about changing bulbs in the clocks to blue LED's. Can I also change the illumination on the multigauge to match?

thanks,
Lord,
Grant me the WD-40 to move those things that are stuck, the Duck tape to fasten those things that are loose, And the wisdom to know the difference.
Amen
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#87
The GPS function was primarily intended to provide altitude readings. But there are screens available showing almost all data coming from a GPS module. 

The given module looks suitable. Though I'm unsure about the TTL voltage level. Guess the VCC_N line defines this. If this is tied to 3V it should work. Didn't find a datasheet so far.

The backlight of the LCD is fixed. You can change it if you have the proper tools but it would have been much more easy before assembly.. Anyway, I could guide you how to do it.
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#88
That is the gps I have fuzzbomb, powered from the cl8 point shown in the documents provided and seems good, I've only powered it briefly but seems good.
Save the planet...It's the only one with beer!
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#89
(11-07-14, 08:48 PM)schlumpf link Wrote: It works based on speedo/rpm. And yes, it's guesswork. etc...I guess it's fair to say that you won't find a gear indicator that works more perfect on this bike.

Thanks very much for the explanation. Sounds the biz. When pennies allow I shall be investing.

Dear Santa, ...
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#90
I have one of these for the FZS 600 from Christian have decided not to fit its brand new only just received from, anyone want it can have for £115 inc postage

Thanks
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#91
Here's a few picks of my new fitted Multi Gauge  Big Grin

[Image: WP_000785_zpsguzeanrz.jpg]

[Image: WP_000786_zpsuwbezjdm.jpg]

AKA - Jase / Carbonkid...
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#92
Defo would be more than interested in one of them if you can get one to fit a pre 02 600. 70s kid (Soon to be known as "Fazerpimp") Smile
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#93
Hi guys,

I hope everyone is getting on well with their multigauge's..  Smile
I was but seem to have hit a snag today... well Kinda my own fault. I ran out of fuel lol.

When leant over on the side stand shows as 0 Liters. when You pull it up straight showed 3 liters.I thought I would be ok so went on my short run to work. half way there (about 3 miles) it conked out.. opened fuel cap, dry as a bone.

Any way to calibrate it or should I take as my own fault and pay more attention to the fuel light? lol
Lord,
Grant me the WD-40 to move those things that are stuck, the Duck tape to fasten those things that are loose, And the wisdom to know the difference.
Amen
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#94
I would suggest to pay more attention to the fuel light  Smile

Accuracy is limited by the given circumstances. The fuel sensor does not give a distinct signal for every fuel level. Instead it is a combination of 13 switches with unequal spread. The lowest switch point is at 4 liters. Hence at steady conditions it can be anywhere between 0 .. 4 liter. You only get a more precise "estimation" by averaging if the fuel flows around.

You could try to fine adjust the fuel readout with 2 parameters in the menu. There might be slight differences from loom to loom and fuel sensor.
Try to adjust "fuel sensor offset ohm" in the extended menu. It is set to -6 by default (for to compensate several effects). Lowering the value shifts the internal correction curve to show lower values.

A better way would be to eliminate the root cause and improve the grounding of "the front", and by this for the fuel sensor. Add an extra ground cable at the headlight bulb connector and route it to the next possible point of the frame. In addition you could do the same for the ground cable going to the dashboard connector (black cable). Tab it and route to the frame. The old ground lines remain in parallel.
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#95
Hi schlumpf,

ok I might take a look at these settings and have a play. Also while I think about it I have never seen the gauge read more than 20 liters when the tank is full. I thought the FZS1000 tank was 21? (according to online stats)
could reducing this value also show my full capacity as 21 liters?

thanks,
Fuzz
Lord,
Grant me the WD-40 to move those things that are stuck, the Duck tape to fasten those things that are loose, And the wisdom to know the difference.
Amen
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#96
On paper and by geometrie it might be 21 liter but you will never managed to put more than 20 liter in. There is an residual air buffer preventing to use the last liter. That's why I restricted the readout to 20 liter. But feel free to alter the upper limit in the menu (like it's done for the 600s).
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#97
(11-07-14, 09:13 PM)schlumpf link Wrote: The backlight of the LCD is fixed. You can change it if you have the proper tools but it would have been much more easy before assembly.. Anyway, I could guide you how to do it.

I was considering the same idea of changing the colour illumination so a guide would be great  Smile
[Image: moded_10.jpg][Image: fazer110.png]
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#98
I'll create a guide and let you know. Give me some days.
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#99
Went much quicker than expected  Smile

Please check the following link:
http://cvieth.bplaced.net/BacklightChange.pdf

Apologies if my "german english" partly sounds strange. I'm open and thankful for any hints.
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Quote:be careful to now over-torque
'Now over-torque' is a lot different from 'Not over-torque' Cristian  :lol
It's fairly obvious what you mean but every idiot proofing brings along a better grade of idiot ready to blame someone else for their own stupidity.
Save the planet...It's the only one with beer!
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