So...the replacement light switch was waiting for me when I got home from work. I rushed out, took the old one off, fitted the new one, plugged it in and.....
Nothing. exactly the same problem as before. No headlight, full beam, tail light, brake light or horn. Again by putting 12v to the blue wire on the 5 pin ignition I get everything working, although His Dudeness is correct in that the horn only then works with the dipped beam on, turn the lights off and no horn.
So I am almost back to square one just with an extra light switch now! Next move?
Thanks in advance
Dang it! Try putting a wire from the positive of the battery to the brown wire in the connector going to the right handlebar switches. Leave the connector connected together. Tturn the ignition on. Does everything work now?
I dont have time to trawl through the wiring diagram again now but......
The switchgear has a common feed. Cant remember the colour but try checking to see if you have 12v on that and work back to the battery/ignition switch from there if it doesnt.
Another ex-Fazer rider that is a foccer again
(12-07-19, 08:11 PM)His Dudeness link Wrote: Dang it! Try putting a wire from the positive of the battery to the brown wire in the connector going to the right handlebar switches. Leave the connector connected together. Tturn the ignition on. Does everything work now? Yes sir you are correct. So I could run a new wire from the signalling fuse and join on to the brown in the switch loom to by pass the bad connection?
(12-07-19, 08:32 PM)StuartGSXR link Wrote: [quote author=His Dudeness link=topic=25441.msg300496#msg300496 date=1562958694]
Dang it! Try putting a wire from the positive of the battery to the brown wire in the connector going to the right handlebar switches. Leave the connector connected together. Tturn the ignition on. Does everything work now? Yes sir you are correct. So I could run a new wire from the signalling fuse and join on to the brown in the switch loom to by pass the bad connection?
[/quote]
Yeah you could do that as long as power is getting to the signaling fuse. It'd better job to find the break and repair it but you could run a new wire if you want.
Ok, so basically that wire goes from the signalling fuse to the switch (but maybe not directly?) just wondering how much wire and from where and to the break could be hiding in! It’s days are numbered now clearly :lol
As the wire was tight in the blue block, I stripped a bit off the one I took off so I could get a decent connection on it seeing as it’s kind of a spare so wouldn’t be an issue to put a decent extra connection in if needs be , as long as it’s safe to do so. Don’t wanna set fire to my nuts !
Thanks again for the help.
I don't know the exact route that the brown wire takes because I'm just going by the diagram and the diagram only shows the connections that are made in the circuit not the physical layout of the harness. You could try giving the brown wire a pull and it might break where the problem is and pull out of the harness. Then lay it over the harness and that would show where you need to fix it. That's just an idea though, there might be a better way to do it. Maybe wait for a second opinion on the best way to fix the wire before you do anything!
You jumped the gun buying the switch until we were finished diagnosing. Removing the switch and checking it was always what should be done before buying anything, however I thought you you said in a previous post that you had power from the fuse.
The good news is that I need a right side switch for a Fazer with a broken kill switch (he dropped a piece of wood on it and broke the red part that you press on the switch) and will happily take it off your hands. PM me with the cost
Had to run a wire on a bandit yesterday with a similar issue to supply the light power, would have preferred to find the break but he was going on holidays for 2 weeks and will have to wait until he returns.
As the brown runs backwards and forwards on the loom the problem is probably close to the fuse. You could try lifting the fuse holder and checking it or see if the wire pulls off the back of the fuse holder. You should be able to see it and/or get at it from the right side. Running a wire should be a temporary option as finding the issue is the safest option.
13-07-19, 09:10 AM
(This post was last modified: 13-07-19, 09:12 AM by StuartGSXR.)
(13-07-19, 01:03 AM)unfazed link Wrote: You jumped the gun buying the switch until we were finished diagnosing. Removing the switch and checking it was always what should be done before buying anything, however I thought you you said in a previous post that you had power from the fuse.
The good news is that I need a right side switch for a Fazer with a broken kill switch (he dropped a piece of wood on it and broke the red part that you press on the switch) and will happily take it off your hands. PM me with the cost
Had to run a wire on a bandit yesterday with a similar issue to supply the light power, would have preferred to find the break but he was going on holidays for 2 weeks and will have to wait until he returns.
As the brown runs backwards and forwards on the loom the problem is probably close to the fuse. You could try lifting the fuse holder and checking it or see if the wire pulls off the back of the fuse holder. You should be able to see it and/or get at it from the right side. Running a wire should be a temporary option as finding the issue is the safest option. I ran a wire from the Signalling fuse to the brown in the block that joins to the lighting connector as a temp measure and everything works.  I may well look into finding the fault in the loom but for now its just nice to have everything working again.
PM me your address details and you can have the other switch for free as a thanks for all the help you have been on this.
Just a tail of woe that I encountered on a mates Triumph Tiger last month.
Had an MOT, & riding home lost lights horn everything, but kept running.
I checked through the system & found it must be ignition switch. Removed screen, top faring, headlights,+++
So after removing switch, out of interest I stripped the wires back. (nothing to loose) wires were apprx 14" long, as went into frt faring to junction box.
Two broken wires inside the sheathing, but touched as you turned the bars, so MOT worked at that particular time.
I repaired the wires, re-soldered, refitted. All good.
(02-08-19, 09:52 PM)rayburn600 link Wrote: Just a tail of woe that I encountered on a mates Triumph Tiger last month.
Had an MOT, & riding home lost lights horn everything, but kept running.
I checked through the system & found it must be ignition switch. Removed screen, top faring, headlights,+++
So after removing switch, out of interest I stripped the wires back. (nothing to loose) wires were apprx 14" long, as went into frt faring to junction box.
Two broken wires inside the sheathing, but touched as you turned the bars, so MOT worked at that particular time.
I repaired the wires, re-soldered, refitted. All good.
Please - it's actually against Forum rules to declare faults on any Tiger :lol :lol
Those are my principles...if you don't like them I have others.
Ha Ha.
Yes I do agree, but this was an old one,(2001) so more like a cub!!!
Look at avatar, Main bike , Triumph Tiger. Its the 1050 Sport.
[color=rgb(63, 63, 63)] [/color] [color=rgb(63, 63, 63)][/color]
(03-08-19, 11:01 AM)rayburn600 link Wrote: Ha Ha.
Yes I do agree, but this was an old one,(2001) so more like a cub!!!
Look at avatar, Main bike , Triumph Tiger. Its the 1050 Sport.
2001 :eek oh a newish one then. Got a 1997 Steamer with good old carbs - love it. Have a chance to fit a 1200 4 from a Trophy........150bhp would be fun lol.
Those are my principles...if you don't like them I have others.
Then you need to get yourself on my 2016 Tiger Sport.
? Did I tell you its got cruise control???
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