Chain lube

[fazersharp]

Chain looks a bit taut there Sharpie, you got enough play in it?

Yep - think so,  30-40mm and just touches the underside of the rubber guide when pushed up perhaps its the angle.
Think it was a little too slack before - see here, I then pulled the wheel back by 1.4mm

[darrsi]

[quote author=darrsi link=topic=20030.msg272077#msg272077 date=1512592201]
Chain looks a bit taut there Sharpie, you got enough play in it?

Yep - think so,  30-40mm and just touches the underside of the rubber guide when pushed up perhaps its the angle.
Think it was a little too slack before - see here, I then pulled the wheel back by 1.4mm

[/quote]


I must admit i took 'unfazed' tip of touching the chain guard with the chain when i refitted my wheel last week and it is a bit tighter than i normally have it, but it's not making any unpleasant noises and there's no feeling at all through the footpeg either so it must be spot on.

[fazersharp]

Got me thinking and questioning myself now, there is 1 tighter spot that still touches the guide but needs pushing up a bit harder than the rest. Don't feel or hear anything out of the ordinary but sometimes it would be handy if I just had someone who can give it a wiggle and a second opinion.   
I measured it before I adjusted it and it was all a good 40mm slack, and easily able to slap it on to the bottom guide and beyond at a measured 40mm.

[darrsi]

Got me thinking and questioning myself now, there is 1 tighter spot that still touches the guide but needs pushing up a bit harder than the rest. Don't feel or hear anything out of the ordinary but sometimes it would be handy if I just had someone who can give it a wiggle and a second opinion.   
I measured it before I adjusted it and it was all a good 40mm slack, and easily able to slap it on to the bottom guide and beyond at a measured 40mm.

If it was way too tight it would grind a bit but you'd hear and feel it, same as if too loose you'd notice excess chain slap.

[fazersharp]

[quote author=fazersharp link=topic=20030.msg272083#msg272083 date=1512595603]
Got me thinking and questioning myself now, there is 1 tighter spot that still touches the guide but needs pushing up a bit harder than the rest. Don't feel or hear anything out of the ordinary but sometimes it would be handy if I just had someone who can give it a wiggle and a second opinion.   
I measured it before I adjusted it and it was all a good 40mm slack, and easily able to slap it on to the bottom guide and beyond at a measured 40mm.

If it was way too tight it would grind a bit but you'd hear and feel it, same as if too loose you'd notice excess chain slap.
[/quote]
Didn't notice any problems before the adjustment, it just felt a little slack -sloppy when prodding.

[ponkster]

I use a dry lube in the summer and a heavy application of chainsaw oil after every trip in the winter  - it does fling off but in the winter its more about protecting the chain than worrying about the mess. Chainsaw oil is cheap enough to apply every time you ride.

[tommyardin]

[quote author=tommyardin link=topic=20030.msg272052#msg272052 date=1512569926]


I agree about it not being a real concern with very low mileages being done, and, to be honest I am not relying on the bike as everyday transport. (Summer Fun)


I clean my bike each time i ride it unless I'm going out on it again the following day, I do it to get the dead bodies off the screen, headlamps and fairing, the baked flies and bugs off the exhaust headers and radiator guard.


Don't say it! I know get a foccing life, but as Darrsi said in an earlier comment, half the fun of owning a bike is the fettling with it.
Well it is for me anyhoo  :rolleyes

not just fettling by the sounds of it, replacing fairings and dodging police because of all the people you have ridden into hard enough for there lifeless bodys to stick to the fairing
[/quote]

[tommyardin]

The general consensus seems to be with the chain in the tightest spot of the chain run the chain should be able to touch the underside of the swinging arm rubber guide without a lot of force.
Bearing in mind if you lube the chain with one of the spray lubes that tends to set a bit then adjust the chain so that the tension is as above, one short ride and the chain will be slacker because of the lube being squished out of the numerous links, so I guess adjust the chain correctly then lube would probably be the best way.


But we all know what opinions are like  :lol

[tommyardin]

Anything Sharpie can do, I can do almost as well  :rolleyes


Chain guard off, chain thoroughly cleaned with Motul Chain Cleaner and a worm chain brush, makes fairly easy work of it.
Amazing the amount of crud that get washed off with the chain cleaner and worm scrubbing brush.
Blasted it off with compressed air after drying it with a rag, leaving it for a while to completely evaporate the cleaner before lubing it with Motul C2.


Chain adjusted so that the chain just touches the lower swinging arm guide when pushed up in the tightest point on the chain run.


Apparently one of the best test to find out how much your chain has worn is to clean the chain and adjust the chain correctly then grab the chain at the centre off the rear sprocket and pull the chain out directly backwards away from the front sprocket if you can push a pencil (5 to 6mm) between the chain and the dell in the rear sprocket your chain has just about reached the end of its life.


Mine pulls out less than 2mm, so all good for a year or three.

[tommyardin]

Had a nice surprise from eGay they have informed me that I qualify for a £10 cash back on my last purchase.


www.ebay.co.uk/itm/160983681079


I am now thinking of buying a thousand  and selling them on at half price, every one I buy I am 30 pence better off plus the £4.85p I get for each half price can I sell.
Potentially making £9700.00, that should help out over Chrimbo.


Thank you eGay 


Damn me and my maths it actually works out at only £5,150. :rolleyes

[tommyardin]

Can anyone tell me the standard length (Number of links) of the FZS 600 2003. seen some on eGay at a reasonable price so thought I might get one and stick it in the shed for future use. I have a new rear and front sprocket in the man drawer in the shed plus a spare big upgrade front sprocket nut and tab washer, I also have a little one but that's something else. :lol .


My front sprocket 16 tooth, I believe it is one tooth up on standard, unless you know better. :thumbup

[Disorderlypunk]

yeah im sure its a 15t oem so adding one to the front is like taking 3 from the rear (the general consensus) so you will loose a bit of acceleration and gain top end speed - or more likely just reduce rpm for long motorway runs
i think its about 110 links but that is a number that just popped into my head so could be out

(i used to have a second set of sprockets just for my long runs on my old bike and it can make a suprising difference for motorway miles but im talking 300+ miles each way as cumbria to london and norfolk was very common for work)


edit - man drawer in shed????, isnt a shed a man zone and might get a womans drawer??