Downpipe removal....Snapped things....

[sinto607276]

I know this is maybe a long shot, but if anyone is closer and who has more experience, would it not be a nice thing to offer to go and help, I've already messaged to offer anutz but he's too far away, I'd need a few nights away to help him, I'm sure anutz would have the kettle always on boil :-)

[fazersharp]

You are doing far more than I would dare attempt and the on-going updates of your work on this post are going to be helpful to many others, keep it up and don't forget to keep taking photos as you go and post them here

[sinto607276]

You are doing far more than I would dare attempt and the on-going updates of your work on this post are going to be helpful to many others, keep it up and don't forget to keep taking photos as you go and post them here

+1
Just had a look at mine as I was washing it, again!
But anyhow, all the exhaust bolts look like stainless steel and from what I see of the studs that are showing they look the same so hopefully when I need to replace the exhaust as that looks original it should be ok, but not counting my chickens. Did ask myself why someone would just change the bolts/studs???

[anutz]

Update, so i had the cylinder head of last night, was not that difficult, just needed some methodical steps...i.e. follow the service manual.....


Biggest thing was the prep, which took me all day - but worth it, had to tap the head with a rubber mallet a few times, was concerned i would not have clearance, but had no issues


I plan to put together a full description of what i have done and update the FIRST post at some point, but for  now i need to asses what to do with the head and if i can save these exhaust studs, i had 2 to remove, one i did a good job with, the second as you will see when i post i drilled off center....so might just need to get a new head, OR i have seen someone rotate the clamp and drill into the opposite parts of the head...


one thing is for sure, putting it back together will be fun - have to make sure i get nothing wrong, do not fancy having to deal with broken valves/pistons....sure i shall have some more threads relating to any issues i encounter, or should i keep it all in here?

[red98]

Good work anutz....main thing to watch out on re-asembly is that the timing marks are spot on, turn it over by hand a few times checking the marks as you go, dont try starting it unless the marks are spot on 

[Beeblebrox2nd]

Am i just gonna piss everyone off now by saying that I went round to a mate's house on Friday afternoon for him to take my pipes off and replaces them, ready for a blast out today (Sunday) and that everything went swimmingly well and had the bike back to me by that evening? Had them off in 20 mins (applied mini cooking blowtorch heat to each nut before it came off(also, engine was still hot from riding it there)) and didn't even need any spray lubricant at all. Bearing in mind my bike's a boxeye '01, with near 60K on the clocks and these were the original downpipes(you could tell by the state of them!) then either my friend is a damned genius at doing this job, or one lucky $%*!?

[darrsi]

Had to take mine off when i got the bike as my mechanic said the down pipes were blowing a bit, and they had TWO sets of gaskets fitted.  :rolleyes

[anutz]

Enjoy the nice weather Beeblebrox2nd....i wish i could have gone out today!




Anyway.....at least the head is off and i can now easily either repair the snapped studs, else buy a new head, which is what im tending to think might be best,  i am sure i drilled one off center due to me trying the initial steps while the bike was in the frame and access was less than optimal...

[sinto607276]

"either my friend is a damned genius at doing this job, or one lucky $%*!?"

Probably both ;-) but it's just jealousy on my and most other people's part lol

[fazersharp]

Anyway.....at least the head is off and i can now easily either repair the snapped studs, else buy a new head, which is what im tending to think might be best,  i am sure i drilled one off center due to me trying the initial steps while the bike was in the frame and access was less than optimal...

Could you elongate the hole in the clamp to match

[His Dudeness]

You could just drill and tap the next size up and use a bigger stud and nut. The studs on the fazer are too small anyway. That's one of the reasons they snap so easily. If you're buying a new head make sure it comes with the original cam caps because they're machined specifically to fit that head. Cam caps off another head won't work

[anutz]

I am going to take the head to an engineers shop local to me - ideas are...


1. Get the holes drilled and tapped with a larger diameter if there is enough tolerance to line up with the exhaust clamps, depends on if i made too much of an error....


2. Rotate the clamps 90 degrees and drill 2 new holes for studs i.e. studs move left at the top and right at the bottom, i have seen some posts on the old site where someone did this and it seemed to work fine


3. buy a new head.....depending on the costs of the above, but i know mine has only done 18,000 miles so would like to save it....if possible....


would it be a good idea to do the timing chain whilst i have the head off?

[Jules-C]

1. Engineering shop should be able to sort off centre hole. Depending on how off centre may have to go oversize but could helicoil insert to bring it back to 6mm or use a stepped stud 8mm in head and 6mm for exhaust clamp.

2. Fine if others done it then no problems with drilling into oilway in head.

3.  New (used) head could bring new problems you would only find out about after putting it all back together.

Shouldn't need to do cam chain after 18k

If engineers shop reckon hole to bad to retap at 6mm I'd go for helicoil and fit stainless stud/threaded rod

[anutz]

Thanks Jules-C - that sounds like potentially the next best step - like you say new head could bring new issues...

[anutz]

OK so i have contacted a local engineering firm and am awaiting a reply - will post some pictures of the current state the 2 snapped studs are in a little later....and hopefully at some point not too far off....the resolution! :lol

[bandit]

anutz, take the exhaust with you to the engineering firm so they can match up studs to clamps position.

[anutz]

good point! All this pondering and i would forget something simple like that


cheers

[anutz]

So, here we are.....left stud seems ok in terms of location....right one i drilled out - no idea why its so "off".....unless its normal, as i cannot see the remains of the old stud as if i had missed lots of it....strange...it might be normal....but i think as well its widened to the right hand side due to the position i had the drill in.....

[midden]

Thanks Jules-C - that sounds like potentially the next best step - like you say new head could bring new issues...

What new issues could a new head bring??

[anutz]

main one i would think is warping....also with my head, i know the cams and other things are all ok, the head was essentially fine, until i touched the studs...  :rolleyes


But lets see what other things people suggest - there will be other reasons i suspect...