Problems at high speeds.

[tommyardin]

i run pipe without link pipes didnt make any difference at all still runs clean through the ful rev range and pulls from anywhere in the revs full throttle partial throttle al very clean and crisp i would say your carbs need a proper clean ultrasonic is the best way to clean them

I am with Daviee,
I have read so much about the S/S headers and collector, I have read stuff like if it doesn't have the 1-2 & 3-4 small diameter links between the base of the down tube the bike will run sluggish and have a loss of it's mid range power.


I replaced my original down tubes after they perforated at the base of the collector about 2.5 years ago, I also fitted a round S/S Pipewerxs Round Sports Can at the same time, [size=1em](Road Legal with removable baffle in situ) and have to say that my experience had been the same as Daviee's.[/size]


My bikes hits 130mph in 6th (Top) gear at 10,000 rpm and will pull on until 142 mph top end with a 16 tooth front sprocket (Sat Nav not Speedometer as speedo is generous to the tune of 4 MPH), speedometer show 146 mph. Would the bike do any more? Don't know pure speculation.


The bike starts sweet, 25% choke in really cold weather, no choke at all if above + 2 or 3 degrees, do not touch the throttle, dab on the starter button bike fires instantly, back the choke off after 15 seconds and bike ticks over sweet.
I have found the bike to perform well with the S/S exhaust system on with no power loss issues what-so-ever, I'm not saying it's better than the Yamaha system, but, it is just as good and looks so much better.
I purchased my S/S Headers on EvilBay I honestly can not remember what I paid for the but I am guessing about £200-£220, and the Pipewerxs can was £180.


The RRP for the Yamaha end can is over £600 and the down pipe and collector over £1200, the £400 I paid for my system pales into insignificance compared to the Yamaha kit, and as said earlier IMO looks a lot better, it performs as well and does not rust, Win, Win.
[size=1em]I tried to go back through my EvilBay history to try to find the S/S headers, but, can only go back 2 years for some reason.  [/size]

[tommyardin]

Where is the pipe a larger diameter.
Mine was a straight swap, if anything the end of the pipe for the exhaust was slightly smaller.
I have a K&N fitted and so does my son on his

If the original can fits on the link pipe I'm guessing it must be an internal pipe restriction, like a pinch point or pinch tube within the exhaust pipe?

[mr self destruct]

Where is the pipe a larger diameter. Mine was a straight swap, if anything the end of the pipe for the exhaust was slightly smaller.I have a K&N fitted and so does my son on his

It'll be a larger internal diameter at the collector ref Fazerider's post. Fuck knows what I'm going to do as refitting original pipes doesn't seem to be an option any more.

I don't think anyone's had much joy with rejetting the FZS600 carbs. A short length of suitable diameter pipe to slide into the collector might be a cheap solution... certainly easier than finding a set of OEM pipes that haven't already rusted through.
Or you could buy new!

i run pipe without link pipes didnt make any difference at all still runs clean through the ful rev range and pulls from anywhere in the revs full throttle partial throttle al very clean and crisp i would say your carbs need a proper clean ultrasonic is the best way to clean them

I think a strip and clean will be the way to go, but what make are your pipes?

[bandit]

Motad.

[tommyardin]

I am just wondering.
Has anyone ever cut through the 'link pipes' I.e. Small link pipes at base of down pipe that join 1-2 & 3-4 (obviously on a shagged set of pipes) to see if they are actually pipe or just solid bracing lugs that help stop flexing or vibration. Or if it is a piece of pipe/tube is there any holes in the down pipes to allow the bypass of gasses.
An FZS 600 boring along the road doing 10,000 rpm x 4 cylynders = 40,0000 piston strokes per minute, that equals 666 piston strokes per second (I know, it sounds impossible) and that every other upward piston motion is an exhaust stroke, that's one awful lot of exhaust gases howling through the downpipes is there any time or space for perhaps an 8 mm inside diameter or so link pipe to make any difference as the 1-2 & 3-4 will all be competing for exhaust space, especially as all four down tubes exit into a single collector before being forced into one single pipe as it leaves the front pipes and again being restricted by a baffle in the tail pipe.
Please excuse an old man's ramblings but it is something that has crossed my mind.  :rolleyes

[mr self destruct]

Is this a link between 2 and 3 further down the pipes on a stocker?

[bandit]

No the link pipes are other ones that's just a brace between 2/3 the same that's on your Motad exhaust.

[unfazed]

The main issue here is that you are unsure if it came on gradually or suddenly
Suddenly would point more to Electrics whereas slowly might point more to items wearing.
Since the Motad Stainless is a common replacement it is unlikely the fault lies there

The only way to resolve it is to rule things out with a check list and literally trial and error

Fuel tank breather
Plug Caps
Check the resistance as the internal carbon resistors can break down and put the resistance to meg ohms intermittently.
(I replaced the internal resistors with ones from old NGK Caps)
Coils & leads
Air filter (K&N is a good replacement)
Fuel filter
Fuel flow (Tap and Pump)
Choke operation
Carb Balance
TPS
Plugs
Intake Manifolds
Carburetor Diaphragms (can be removed with carbs in situ)
If all above check out and you have changed the Rectifier/Regulator (but no guarantee it is working properly as the faulty one I had tested OK statically)

Then remove the carbs and check them, including the Pilot screws.
When the carbs are off check the valve clearances

[tommyardin]

No the link pipes are other ones that's just a brace between 2/3 the same that's on your Motad exhaust.

There in lies the problem, a number of us seem to understand something different when we talk about the link pipes between 1-2 & 3-4.

In the re-hashed picture below is what I understand when people talk about the link pipes between 1-2 & 3-4, these are what I am asking about in the post above are they joining /link pipes or just braces that stop vibration and or flexing?


The other part indicated I understand to be the collector.
Someone with more knowledge please comment and help this old geezer understand :'(

[daviee]

get the carbs cleaned it can cure lots of problems deffo the first thing i would do

[bandit]

Is this a link between 2 and 3 further down the pipes on a stocker?

This answer is for mr self destruct for his picture/query.

[quote author=bandit link=topic=21358.msg253828#msg253828 date=1488200327]
No the link pipes are other ones that's just a brace between 2/3 the same that's on your Motad exhaust.

There in lies the problem, a number of us seem to understand something different when we talk about the link pipes between 1-2 & 3-4.

In the re-hashed picture below is what I understand when people talk about the link pipes between 1-2 & 3-4, these are what I am asking about in the post above are they joining /link pipes or just braces that stop vibration and or flexing?


The other part indicated I understand to be the collector.
Someone with more knowledge please comment and help this old geezer understand :'(

You are correct they are the link pipes between 1-2 & 3-4 & are not braces. [img alt=Smile]http://foc-u.co.uk/Smileys/efocicon/smile.gif[/img]

[/quote]




You are correct they are the link pipes between 1-2 & 3-4 & are not braces.

[bandit]

tommyardin, that is correct they are the link pipes between 1-2 & 3-4 & are hollow,they are not braces.

[mr self destruct]

Thanks for the comments guys, all good info. Looks like I'm gonna have to spend some serious time on this so it'll have to wait until the Easter holiday.

[mr self destruct]

In a recent development, I was fitting a thou rear caliper and new disc/pads and leaned on the exhaust, which moved freely.
I gave it a shake and chunks of graphite seal fell out. Could this be the cause of the problem? I've got a replacement on order so we'll see.


Update: It wasn't.

[mr self destruct]

As an update to this, I started from scratch again this week as I've only now had time to take the bike off the road.
New plugs at last service.
New caps today.
New coils today.
New air filter at last service.
New fuel filter today.
Pipe from tank to pump checked for kinks, none found.
Carbs balanced today.
Tps checked and reading ok.


Problem still there where I open it up fully and it just bogs down, yet can accelerate ok at 3/4 throttle.
I've exhausted all other possibilities than carbs, so have bought a used set to stick on while getting the originals refurbed.

[mr self destruct]

Done fucked up today!


Stripped the bike down last Thursday, got the old carbs off and new ones on today, all good until I found I had two screws left over and some sort of electrical relay hanging where it shouldn't.


Between Thursday and today I managed to lose whatever bracket goes there. I can't even remember what it looks like, let alone where it went. Anyone got a spare they're willing to part with?


Picture here:
https://flic.kr/p/XsLz9h

[Fazerider]

The bracket's right there a couple of inches away.  :lol

[mr self destruct]

Oh good!
Apart from me feeling a bit of a dick.  :lol


Just got to figure out where the two spare screws came from then. :o
After that it's test run time tomorrow.

[Disorderlypunk]

what kind of screws ??
strangely a pic of them next to a tape measure might help
there should be enough of us watching for one of us to recognise them (unless they are just generic screws)

[unfazed]

The bracket's right there a couple of inches away.  :lol

The arrow points to the bracket for the flasher relay, the starter cut out relay (hanging down) shoud be where you have the flasher relay in the picture. Change them of the side cover won't fit on properly