Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
My FZS600, modding in Oz.
#41
Hrmm, not a bad idea, and i have some of those bolts with me at work (the original yamaha ones) so i have a size to go off with getting replacements on the way home before i fit the wheels.
Reply
#42
I've sprayed my disc centres black to make sure the new bolts stand out. Anal I know but another piece of contrast
Like the rim tape, even if they are gold lol
Complete fabrication, I didn't make it up!
Reply
#43
Got myself some nice shiny new disc bolts, some loctite for them and some thread sealer for my fork tops which are insisting on weeping right now.
And one day i'll get a photo of the bike with the wheels on...i think it looks great (apart from that it's filthy!)
Reply
#44
Took a photo of the bike with the wheels on finally.
It's pretty damn filthy right now but the photo hides that haha!
Random little things need fixing now.
Grips are coming loose (heated grips, superglued on)
Forks weep but i bought some thread sealer at least (at the top)
Got to give the chain a good clean and lube.
Left footpeg is all loose and wobbly.


*edit* fixed the grips and the footpeg when i got home, took like 3 minutes.





Attached Files Thumbnail(s)
   
Reply
#45
Nice lookin' machine, well done boss
Reply
#46
Thanks mate Smile.


Did a few things on the weekend:
Checked the travel on the front forks, i had the forks pushed through the triples 10mm with my previous front wheel (standard wheel with 110/70 PR2), the TRX wheel and 120/70 tyre i have now on there now is taller and raises the nose a bit, it changed the handling a little and i didn't like it.
Turns out i have clearance to drop the forks 20mm through the triples and after a test ride it feels good like that!
My front travel is 100mm to bottomed out, got some photos attached of the clearance (photos taken with the forks pushed through 10mm on the triples and the springs etc taken out).


I reset my front oil height to 130mm from 135mm just to stiffen it up a little as it goes through the travel.


I sealed my front forks caps with hydraulic thread sealer, they were weeping before.


I fitted my R1 fork blanking plates, which means i can put the mirror support pieces back in behind my fairing....no more wobbly fairing at speed!  Will paint them red later when i spray the fairing etc (bit of spray putting will fill in the R1 logos haha)


Cut down my rear mudguard.  Moved the numberplate up over the reflector area and just cut off everything below.  I'd like to make it slimmer again later when i change my indicators out to slim ones.  Probably have it so just the plastic tray holding the CDI is left and the numberplate will mount of a small metal angle mounted through where the reflector was.


Cleaned the chain with kero.


Attached Files Thumbnail(s)
               
Reply
#47
Last two pics are the bike as it sits with the forks lowered 20mm.
Pics before that are springs out with the front dumped onto the stops.


Attached Files Thumbnail(s)
           
Reply
#48
Measured up the clamps on my danmoto adjustable clip ons this morning.  The clamps that go around the fork legs are 24mm thick/high (whatever you want to call it).
I have 20mm of fork tube above the triples plus 2mm of thickness for the top cap.
Basically i feel i have enough room to try out the clipons above the top triple, which on a fazer is probably the best place for them if you want to keep the fairing (which i do).
It'll be a good intermediate riding position (i'm hoping!), while not being too nose down (i'm hoping!) Tongue.
Not sure if i'll push the forks through another few mm to get 24mm above the triples, i'll probably go down the route of just milling a few mm off the danmoto clip on clamp instead though.
Mounting perhaps will end up like this bike.



Attached Files Thumbnail(s)
   
Reply
#49
(20-11-15, 05:12 PM)joebloggs link Wrote: Wrong model  :lol

Fugly and a little souless or not, you can't fault Hondas build quality. Only had one, a VF500 when I passed my test, brilliant bike if a little expensive on servicing. Just never found anything else after that that caught my eye, well RC30 maybe but look at the price tag

Seem to have gone slightly off topic

Yeah gold swing arm for colour balance...... Big Grin


Unless it's had a later F model mirror/clock bracket fitted your E should have the H-bar bracket holding the mirrors up, same as on the old fireblades? Binned mine personally and put the F bracket on, huge visual improvement IMO!
Reply
#50
Exactly what I have done here in the uk but I have stuck to uk plate laws and it look like your laws or the amount of numbers on the plate result in a smaller plate than here in the uk


Yours

[Image: index.php?action=dlattach;topic=15720.0;...2308;image]

Mine
[img height=879 width=800]http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=18821.0;attach=22219;image[/img]

I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
Reply
#51
Yeah we don't have the crazy large plates, mine is a bit old and ratty looking and is in the generic state colour from about 10+ years ago so at some point the plate will go in the bin and i'll replace it with a red/black or black/gold one to match the rest of the bike.  Size will remain the same, that's the only size available for the bike.
Rego numbers don't stay with vehicles for their life here (they do in the UK don't they?) and depending on which state of Australia you're in the options and details of personalised plates are pretty extensive Smile .


As for the side view it's slim enough for now, if i was staying with large indicators i'd keep it as it is, and it took minimum time to mod it like that.  But i'd like it to be just the  numberplate and by necessity the CDI box being visible from the side when i'm done, the indicators tucked up high on minimal bits of plastic and the gap between the wheel and the tail being more or less free of anything.
Reply
#52
I'm in the middle of drawing a numberplate bracket that will be wrapped around and bolt to both sides of the CDI tray with the rear of the bracket that the number plate fixes to at 45 deg. Bit of an over kill maybe but should look a lot neater than a bracket bolted directly to the rear of the tray
Hopefully it'll look factory fitted when finished
Complete fabrication, I didn't make it up!
Reply
#53
Yeah that'd be pretty neat.
I was thinking with the bracket on the rear of the tray that it'd be pretty much hidden by the numberplate and would essentialy just be there to give the numberplate a bit of upwards angle relative to the vertical (ish) rear of the CDI tray.
But having a bracket going down the sides of the CDI tray could also pick up the indicators and look pretty neat.
Reply
#54
(10-12-15, 06:45 AM)Nebuchernezzer link Wrote: Yeah that'd be pretty neat.
I was thinking with the bracket on the rear of the tray that it'd be pretty much hidden by the numberplate and would essentialy just be there to give the numberplate a bit of upwards angle relative to the vertical (ish) rear of the CDI tray.
But having a bracket going down the sides of the CDI tray could also pick up the indicators and look pretty neat.

[Image: WP_20151127_004.jpg]

[Image: WP_20151127_012.jpg]

[Image: WP_20151129_002.jpg]


My indicator brackets, they're so small I didn't need anything substantial to mount them to
Complete fabrication, I didn't make it up!
Reply
#55
I'm looking at somthing similarly small. Was wondering if I should bore a hole in the outer plastic and mount my indicators through the cdi tray plastic itself. Saves me having to leave 'tags' on the outside for them. Depends on if they can be seen around the numberplate of course though if I do that!
Reply
#56
A black plate would be good but the plate laws in this country are explicit with regards to the font and the height and the thickness of the letters and although some plates have less letters and numbers the min size of the plate is a fixed size, so the plate that I have is the smallest it can be - even if it had less numbers.
So like you I have cut my guard down to the same size of the plate I saw no point in cutting away what the plate is covering, I am looking forward to seeing how jobloggs looks when it is done.
Here is mine from the side
[Image: index.php?action=dlattach;topic=18821.0;...2281;image]

And slightly from the front and also a photoshopped version with more guard cut and the luggage tie removed
[Image: index.php?action=dlattach;topic=18821.0;...2283;image]


Attached Files Thumbnail(s)
   
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
Reply
#57
They have height and letter requirements?
So you can make your own plate if it complies?
We just buy ours as is.  If they offer it in red we can have red, if they offer it with palm trees all over it we can have that haha!
https://www.ppq.com.au/our-range

Reply
#58
(10-12-15, 09:55 PM)Nebuchernezzer link Wrote: They have height and letter requirements?
Yep that right - they HAVE to be  certain height AND thickness AND font, also the plate has to be a minimum size (mine is that)
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
Reply
#59
Took my belly pan off and lined it with heat tape today, just as insurance against cooking the frp or the paintwork from the inside out Smile.
And the brackets I made for the belly pan too, if anyone gets the same pan in future I have dimensions for what I made.


Attached Files Thumbnail(s)
           
Reply
#60
Got some LED indicators for Xmas so put them on today and further trimmed the tail. Will make a bracket to mount the numberplate a bit differently perhaps but it's good for now.
Bike still filthy haha.


Attached Files Thumbnail(s)
               
Reply


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: