That's exactly what i was thought earlier.
But, shouldn't the disc be central in the caliper? How can it drift to the right side?
If the pots on the right have seized, fair enough they'll just stay put, but why should the ones on the left go that far over, because surely the disc can't physically move over because it's bolted down in a fixed (central) position??
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
@red98
I push them out one at a time as far as i feel safe, without popping the seals, then clean them up and re-grease them.
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
Once the pistons seize there is no point in pushing them back all you are doing nothing!
If the piston require any more than finger pressure to push them back they are starting to seize time to service the caliper. As I said before these are amongst the best caliper available they are GP race spec of 20yrs ago, all they did to make them road fitment was fit a dust seal.
They need looking after regularly.
Later
Yeah, the ones i took off were more floating than the OEM's, you could move them by hand.
I'll see how it goes tomorrow, but the fact that i've got rust on pots which will likely need renewing, plus the cost of seals, etc, i think i'll look for a fully working 2nd hand caliper in good nick.
It'll give me a spare to play with in my own time as well.
The other side was working really nicely.
As much as i like working on the bike i simply don't get the time to do it because i'm on call for work at weekends, so i need the easier and quicker fix.
Thanks for the advice again.
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
Rust spots on the pistons are coated any rust will just be just on the surface and easily removed providing someone hasn't tried pulling them out with pliers or they are pitted due to over cleaning with wire brushes.
Just service the caliper word of warning you've got to know what you're doing or it could all end in :'(
Later
22-05-12, 09:54 PM
(This post was last modified: 22-05-12, 10:04 PM by darrsi.)
In all fairness, it looked like the rust was more to the outer edge of one of the pots that touches the pads.
I wouldn't be surprised if it's due to all the salt that gets chucked about during our 6 month winters!!
I've actually just ordered a fully working pair of 2nd hand calipers (it was only a few quid more to buy both rather than just one), so at least i can service them in my own time and i can swap them over quickly when needs arise in the future.
I kinda like that idea.........
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
UPDATE:
I can only describe my ride into work this morning as 'perfect'.
No hint of judder at all, lovely smooth braking.
A Foccers dream......
I'm a happy man
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
Mystery solved! Glad you've got it working properly again ^^
27-01-20, 08:02 AM
(This post was last modified: 27-01-20, 01:21 PM by darrsi.)
I just stumbled on this thread, and noticed that i never posted the actual culprit responsible.
It was me, in the garage, with a spanner. :lol
Joking aside, it was all caused by a fault in the braided brake lines.
It was the ONLY thing left to change, but because they were braided i bought new lines reluctantly still thinking there was no way it could be them.
They were somehow expanding on braking, which i could understand with unbraided lines, but not ones with a metal wrap around them.
The bike was in a story state when i bought it, due to it being treated as a bit of a toy by the previous owner, so it really needed a lot of TLC, but that was why i got it very cheap.
Anyway, after a lot of time, money, and effort, once the new braided lines were fitted the whole issue went away. :woot
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
![[Image: 242673.png]](http://badges.fuelly.com/images/smallsig-uk/242673.png)
![[Image: 174802.png]](http://badges.fuelly.com/images/smallsig-uk/174802.png)
