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#21
Hi Mitch,

I'll try to address most of your points in turn.

No choke required. Not unusual, particularly if the carbs have been rejetted or the mixture screws altered to 4 - 5 turns out.

Known issue, floats too high.  Be clear on understanding here.  They are invariably set correctly from the factory.  Ivan alters them to achieve a better outcome with his jet kits.  Yes, if left for extended periods on the sidestand, the fuel level in the  lowest carb might get a bit high but it's not a big deal.  Might mean that cylinder misfires until the level returns to normal.  There are still thousands of bog stock Gen 1s out there and they're all running fine, just as Mr Yamaha intended.  Well, most are ... Wink

Oil level went up/down. Yes, that can happen without it being an indicator of fuel or coolant getting into the sump.  These motors hide oil but a long lay-up can result in all of it draining down again. 

Recent starting problem.  Sounds like a simple misfire, reluctant start afterwards probably because battery voltage a little low.  White smoke is usually condensation, topped up with a bit of excess fuel from the misfire.  If it was a hydraulic lock, it would have stayed locked!

The carb overflow system is designed to prevent excess fuel getting into the motor.  Stuck floats are quite common but you don't find reports everywhere of cylinders filling with fuel as a result.  It does go out the overflows as it should.  Trust me on this, I've seen it many times. Smile  Same applies for fuel leaking past the float needle valve seat O-rings.  You'll get a rich misfire long before that manifests as a fuel overflow, too.

If you are absolutely certain that the float heights are not right, reset them to 12.5mm.  However, to be honest, I still have reservations about your checking procedure.  You mentioned the floats barely seating the needle valve.  That's not correct.  The tang should just be touching the sprung tip of the needle, not compressing or seating it at all.  If the tangs are obviously straight, then they have not been altered previously.

I suggest you sort out the other issues with the main jet installation, check the needles for type and installed height, fit new float needle valve seat O-rings, clean the pilot jets, put it all back together and see how she runs.  Check the condition of your battery, particularly if you don't use an Optimate when the bike's laid up for a while.

I wouldn't bother with reinstalling the carb heater hoses.  I've never heard of a Gen 1 suffering carb icing as a result of removing it.  Too much hassle for zero return.  By the way, there's no 'probably' about the carb heater system being the same on every Gen 1 from 2002 onwards ... Wink

I can't help but feel you are over-thinking this and perhaps seeing issues where none exist.  Sometimes the internet can be a hindrance as much as a help. Smile 
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#22
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#23
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#24
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#25
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#26
I wouldn't bother with resetting the float heights, Mitch.  Only worth doing if you're fitting one of Ivan's kits. 

If it ain't broke, don't dick with it. Smile
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#27
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#28
Hi Mitch,

Yes, I've come across a few pinched diaphragms.  Not a problem so long as they're not actually punctured.  Refit carefully and that's that. Smile

Leave the pressed in brass components alone other than checking for obvious blockages.

Before you go altering the lone float height, the one you suspect has a bent tang, check it against the others by sighting along the line of the floats when they're at the correct position for checking/setting their heights.  You can do this by putting one end of the carbs on the bench and by angling the bank towards you so that the carbs are about 30 degs to the bench.  Tilt the entire bank gently to get the floats hanging completely clear of the needle valves.  Now rotate them back the other way carefully until they just stop moving.  That's the position to compare alignment.  If you continue to rotate the carbs further, you should see the floats move again as they overcome the spring pressure in the needle valves and settle completely.

Indeed odd that one float pivot should be shorter than the rest but at least you have replacements to hand. Smile

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#29
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#30
Mitch,

You might want to check the markings on the needles and the size of the main jets, just in case someone has tried a DIY rejetting job.

Needles should have SD-130 or SD-129 stamped around the top.  Main jets should be 130 and 132.5.
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#31
Think that stray washer should be under the clip on the needles as it's designed to lift it up a bit not on top
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#32
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#33
Hi Mitch

All stock parts and settings for a pre-2003 model.  Well, mid-2003 to be precise but that's trivia. Wink

I'd reassemble using the 3mm spacers which was how Yamaha shipped the Fazer from mid-2003 onwards.  It was their way of addressing the lean surge issues which affected the earlier versions of the bike.  You will still need one 0.5mm shim below the spacer and another on top of the e-clip to act as a seat for the needle retaining spring.

Set the mixture screws to 3.5 turns out and call it good for now. Smile

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