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lights out!
#21
OK....had it sorted tonight.....for a while.

Had the LHS dimmer switch off, RHS light switch off and all the connection points exposed.  Was not getting 12v at light switch so followed that back all the way back to the fuse box where I found a blown 10A fuse....whit a fud a thought.  For some reason I thought that the HL fuse was the 20A fuse.  Also the circuit diagram colours on the Haynes manual vary greatly from the actual on the bike which has caused me no end of hassle.  I have now resorted to pulling bundles of cables to see where they lead then testing for 12V / continuity etc.

So I eagerly replaced the fuse and put together all the fiddly bits and the head lights were all working fine as was the horn etc.  One thing that I did notice was the back brake light was not coming on with the back brake operation.  It was working with front brake operation.  I guessed that this problem was unrelated to the original no headlights and that I could address this later.

So I had in front of me a reassembled unit and was testing all the switches for the third time when the original problem reoccurred with no head lights horn etc. FECK!!!.

So now am thinking I would like to change the large connection plug under the LHS in-fill fairing as the connections there are pretty bogging. 

Any other thoughts advice will again be most appreciated regarding possible cause, plug specification and method of replacement.

Ta as always...

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#22
Ok. Replaced the 10a signal fuse then tried various switches to see if it would blow. I actually heard it pop when activating the back brake. Had a look at the switch and it seemed pretty mangled. A bit of tinkering and soldering and the fazer is back on the road.

So the symptom was no headlights, cause was a blown signal fuse caused by a faulty back brake switch. Not sure what caused that but will order a new one anyway.

Thanks for all the tips!
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#23
Well if nothing else was gained by inspecting and WD'ing all the connectors you have certainly protected the connections for a while to come. When changing my plugs (Yep I remove my tank to change spark plugs) or removing my tank for any other reason I always pop the top on the little black box and give it a liberal spray with WD and I do the same to the infill panel connector. Connectors under the seat and the back of the tail light fairing gets the same treatment.


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#24
Sounds like good practice. To be honest i should Change the large white connector under the in fill section as this was pretty mushy brown. Also ordered a new back brake switch from fleabay for 6 quid.
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#25
(20-10-17, 06:32 PM)tommyardin link Wrote: No don't remove the fairing at this stage, look under the tank in the black box full of connectors, or, under the Clutch Lever (Left hand side as your sitting on the bike) side front fairing infill panel, 3 screw to access that one so I would check that first, switch ignition on and the headlights and wiggle the large white plastic connector that under the front fairing infill panel, if the lights flicker on and off you found the problem in the connection box, if it does not make any difference I would check the black electrical box under the tank. Cause will probably be a blown signal fuse caused by a faulty back brake switch but worth checking the rest.
Let us know how you get on.


So the fault was exactly as Tommy predicted early on.  :rolleyes
Those are my principles...if you don't like them I have others.
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#26
Agreed ?
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