(07-05-16, 11:47 AM)Slaninar link Wrote: [quote author=joebloggs link=topic=20030.msg231467#msg231467 date=1462617432]
I don't buy the metal in old engine oil theory, if, as its suggested, the oil is full of metal particles it would destroy your engine in seconds, sure its thiner but still far better at lubrication than most chain lubes.
I've also used a rag soaked in oil in the past, wrapped the rag around the chain and slowly rotated the wheel, I found that not only covered the chain in oil but also wiped off any dirt and dust that had built up on the links. Bloody messy though lol
Engine oil has several functions: lube, gather and neutralize combustion tar, acids that build up etc. Used engine oil has degraded lubrication qualities and is full of dirt and acid. That's why it is changed. Good for painting wooden fences, but not good for lubricating anything anymore.
New thick engine oil (20w60), or new SAE90 oil is good, but I'd never recommend using used engine oil.
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All correct but the fact is the oil that you drained out was protecting your engine just fine right up until you drained it. It would not be as good as fresh new oil but it was working well enough up until you drained it that the engine wasn't suffering any major wear. Right? So will it protect a drive chain for a few days? Yes of course it will. Would new gear oil be better? Yes. But does used engine oil work fine? Yes
(07-05-16, 12:14 PM)His Dudeness link Wrote: All correct but the fact is the oil that you drained out was protecting your engine just fine right up until you drained it. It would not be as good as fresh new oil but it was working well enough up until you drained it that the engine wasn't suffering any major wear. Right? So will it protect a drive chain for a few days? Yes of course it will. Would new gear oil be better? Yes. But does used engine oil work fine? Yes
All correct and I agree. Some people run it through a cofee filter to make it a bit cleaner and re-use it. It does come free, while a litre of new engine oil costs around 5 euros in my city.
However, I have tried using used motor oil and it is a lot messier than using new oil. So you have:
- more dirt
- less viscosity so it slips off chain more quickly
- worse lubrication
- worse corrosion inhibition and perhaps some acid as well (though if changed regularly and of decent quality oil should still be base by the time it is drained)
+ 5 euro per litre saving
+ more eco if you would otherwise throw old oil away
Most things done in a hurry need to be done again - patiently.
(07-05-16, 12:22 PM)Slaninar link Wrote: [quote author=His Dudeness link=topic=20030.msg231472#msg231472 date=1462619642]
All correct but the fact is the oil that you drained out was protecting your engine just fine right up until you drained it. It would not be as good as fresh new oil but it was working well enough up until you drained it that the engine wasn't suffering any major wear. Right? So will it protect a drive chain for a few days? Yes of course it will. Would new gear oil be better? Yes. But does used engine oil work fine? Yes
All correct and I agree. Some people run it through a cofee filter to make it a bit cleaner and re-use it. It does come free, while a litre of new engine oil costs around 5 euros in my city.
However, I have tried using used motor oil and it is a lot messier than using new oil. So you have:
- more dirt
- less viscosity so it slips off chain more quickly
- worse lubrication
- worse corrosion inhibition and perhaps some acid as well (though if changed regularly and of decent quality oil should still be base by the time it is drained)
+ 5 euro per litre saving
+ more eco if you would otherwise throw old oil away
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Of course it has more dirt than new stuff and worse everything but it's just lubing a drive chain so the question is, is it good enough to to do that? I think it is as long as you apply it regularly. For me the benefits are it's a way to use a waste product. As far as I can tell it keeps my chain in tip top condition. I've always got a supply of it so I don't have to think about it or go to the shop when it runs out. I get a good look at the chain every few days so there's no chance of it hoping off the sprocket or anything mad going on. It saves a small bit of money. It's just a personal choice. I can see why people use the spray cans but after using them for a while I wouldn't bother with them
I've just done an oil change, the old stuff looks ok didn't really need to change it , I will be using this on the chain for a while now, cheers for the info guys
I put down a bit of cardboard under the chain, put a bit of oil on an old tooth brush and go over the chain to clean it, then wipe it off, then apply a bit more with the toothbrush or a rag to lube it. Go for a short spin and then wipe away the excess spray. It should be good for a tank of petrol. Cleaning it isn't always necessary, you can get away with just adding a bit more on sometimes
(07-05-16, 02:24 PM)fazersharp link Wrote: Why not all bikes belt drive ?
If you've seen how quickly a belt can be destroyed by a stone you'd never want a belt drive. Full enclosures aren't exactly stylish so manufactures leave them open (Harley)
Had a search to find a better post to add to but couldn't find anything better so adding to this old one but all relevant.
Just been cleaning my chain with paraffin and to aid the drying I use a can of air and blast out between the links but it soon freezes up and slows down.
Question -------- could I use brake cleaner to finish off with as that blasts out of the tin and would do a final clean and also push out the paraffin and then very quickly evaporate unlike paraffin that does not quickly evaporate. I am thinking that if it is safe for brake rubber then its safe for o -rings ?
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
Brake cleaner is brilliant stuff, but i don't see why you'd want to totally degrease a chain.
Cleaning is one thing, but completely degreasing it wouldn't be my choice.
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
(05-12-17, 10:25 PM)darrsi link Wrote: Brake cleaner is brilliant stuff, but i don't see why you'd want to totally degrease a chain.
Cleaning is one thing, but completely degreasing it wouldn't be my choice.
Yes that is a thought,but as I am a bit OCD I think all the grease is off or most of it and i was more looking at removing the left over paraffin so I can get new lube in there but with paraffin there its going to be fighting that.
I use Putulene Chain Tech that comes out thin and gets everywhere and then gos hard and is nice and white.
I will have a look tomorrow to see if the paraffin has had a chance to dry up between the plates and rollers, so we think brake cleaners is safe to use do we?.
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
(07-05-16, 11:23 AM)fazersharp link Wrote: Back in the 80s I had a round tin of solid wax oil that you put on a camping stove and melted it and then chucked your chain in - wiggle it about a bit and then take out to dry. It was a 125 with a split pin link so was easy to get off
Ahhhh! The old tin of 'Link-Life' graphite grease.
Pop in on the stove after washing the chain in Petrol or Paraffin, dry the chain and roll the chain up into a circle and lay it on top of the Link-Life and watch it slowly sink as the stuff warmed up.
Grab the tin with two pairs of mole grips and get the f--k outa there before you mum started screaming what the hell are you doing in there your stinking the place out. Hang the chain over the nail in the fence post and allow the Link-Life to drip back into the tin, ready for the next gauntlet run in your mums kitchen.
You reminded me of it Sharpie with your comment.
It was good stuff and set on the chain as it cooled down.
Going to look on eGay to see if you can still get the stuff.
![[Image: wurth_hp_performance-dry-chain-lube_1.jpg]](http://www.sportsbikeshop.co.uk/product_images/wurth_hp_performance-dry-chain-lube_1.jpg)
![[Image: 606131.png]](http://badges.fuelly.com/images/sig-uk/606131.png)
