I've finally got the carbs cleaned out and back on the bike with a new fuel filter for good measure. The carbs were tricky to get back in especially getting the throttle cables fixed again. It's very easy to get the accelerator cable caught around a lower connection on the carbs, so I would always advise to get the accelerator and decelerator cables connected before pushing and fixing the carbs back into the carb rubbers and air box.
On turning the ignition the fuel filter obviously kicked in and took longer than usual to stop pumping and then all it took was a few cranks of the starter to get the fuel flowing through the system again, but once fired up it was roaring with the throttle open.
I've tried to attach some photos of the white gunk that had built up in the carbs. It was almost like the gelatin from a pork pie but not as tasty!
[smg id=2537 type=preview align=center caption="FZS600 clogged carb1"]
[smg id=2538 type=preview align=center caption="FZS600 clogged carb2"]
Thanks for everyones help and hopefully this post may help someone else in the future from a google search.
#Driven by the irony that only being shackled to the road could ever I be free.#
nice :b
Need to do my carbs now...
Did you have any issues with the seals/gaskets - did you have to replace any?
The carb gasgets looked fine and so I didn't need/want to replace them. I simply gave them a bit of a rub down with carb cleaner to get rid of any build ups.
The O-rings to the main jets I also left on as they were. They seemed like they were in good condition so again I didn't bother replacing them and soaked them carb cleaner with the jets.
If you're looking at taking your carbs apart soon, some of the screws were really tricky to remove without tearing the heads off, but a bit of WD40 left to soak and a knock with a hammer did the trick of loosening them.
#Driven by the irony that only being shackled to the road could ever I be free.#
Also, as unfazed mentioned, don't use steel wire to poke gunk out of the holes in the jets. I snipped off some old electrical cable and used a strand of copper which is softer yet still rigid enough and therefore won't damage the jets.
#Driven by the irony that only being shackled to the road could ever I be free.#
Did you check your fuel tank for any water, that contamination came from somewhere.
And if you have any water sloshing around the bottom of your tank you will get a little bit picked up every now and again and it's going to be a recurring problem :rolleyes
Check the drain tube is clear that drains the area under the filler cap.
and check the face that the rubber seal of the cap goes down onto is not rusty, mine was, cleaned it with scotch bright pad, treated it with loctite rust converter, let it dry and put a light smear of silicon grease on it - happy days 
That's a very good point. The filler cap is beginning to rust which would indicate the presence of water. There's currently 10l of fuel in there which I might try and drain to inspect before considering to put it back in. Thanks for the tip on the filler cap, I will go out and buy myself some locative rust converter!
#Driven by the irony that only being shackled to the road could ever I be free.#
Could also try 300ml of Isopropyl Alcohol per full tank of fuel a few times, that stuff binds with any water and it then it gets burnt off as fuel.
It's cheap on EBay.
I use it a few times every winter, it doesn't do any harm at all.
Saying that, if you were to have a lot of water in there it would need draining anyway and then the leak fixed.
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
I've just taken it out for a spin now and the problem hasn't fully gone away. 
It seemed fine revving it at the kerbside but then 1 min into a journey the engine randomly blips and begins to stall. If it leave it idling for a while it ticks over fine, until i get going again and whilst accelerating it runs like crap.
I think I'm going to have to completely drain the tank, and then the entire fuel system again to rule out any fuel contamination. The only other component in the air/fuel system that could be at fault is the fuel pump, but other than that I might be looking at an electrical fault from the coils??
#Driven by the irony that only being shackled to the road could ever I be free.#
Have you done a TPS check at all, when they go kaput the bike runs ropey?
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
Ita got a brand new tps, air filter, fuel filter and spark plugs.
#Driven by the irony that only being shackled to the road could ever I be free.#
There is probably to much water in the fuel to do anything other than drain it.
I would suggest you remove the tank Drain the fuel out of it, than remove the fuel tap and clean the tap filter .
With the tap out drain every drop out of the tank. Refit the tap, put the tank back on but do not fit the front bolt yet.
Put about 1 gallon fuel into the tank and connect up the petrol pipe to the tap, remove the pipe from the outlet of the pump. Fit a long pipe onto the outlet and direct it into a container.
Turn on the fuel tap, turn the kill switch to run and turn on the ignition switch, the pump should pump the fuel into the container. This will do two things, prove the pump works and pump fresh fuel through the pump and filter. Refit the original petrol pipe to the pump, connect the fuel sender and lower the tank
Drain the carbs and with the the drain screws open run the pump to let fresh fuel flow through the pipes. tighten the drain screws and switch on the ignition. When the pump stops, turn the ignition off and on again, continue this until the pump stops pumping, this means the float bowls are full. Refit the tank bolt.
Now start the bike and try it.
Let us know how you get on.
Unfazed: that's my Saturday morning taken care of! Thanks for the method you've suggested. I'll let you know how I get on.
#Driven by the irony that only being shackled to the road could ever I be free.#
I'm now back on the road.
I completely drained the tank, filter and pump and then finally the float bowls; took the filler cap apart to get rid of the rust and tidy it up, filled it up with some fresh petrol and away it went. One hiccup within 30 seconds but afterwards was running cleanly for 10 miles.
Does anyone want to buy 12.5l of what I assume is water contaminated petrol??!@
#Driven by the irony that only being shackled to the road could ever I be free.#
Leave it rest for a week, water will sink to the bottom and then put it the 10 litres in Lawn Mower and take the rest to Recycle
(26-04-15, 02:59 PM)110% link Wrote: I'm now back on the road.
I completely drained the tank, filter and pump and then finally the float bowls; took the filler cap apart to get rid of the rust and tidy it up, filled it up with some fresh petrol and away it went. One hiccup within 30 seconds but afterwards was running cleanly for 10 miles.
Does anyone want to buy 12.5l of what I assume is water contaminated petrol??!@ Thank you so much for this very old thread. I had the exact same problem, with the exact same solution 
After testing the pump and taking the carbs apart, I found this thread.
I simply drained the tank and fill a few litres of new petrol in it. There was quite a lot of hickups still, since I didn't drain the fuel pipe, filter or float chambers, but it finally swallowed all the bad petrol and got back to normal operation.
Learning: Don't leave the bike in heavy rain for a long period with only a few litres in the tank :lol
(28-08-23, 11:19 AM)sblar link Wrote: Learning: Don't leave the bike in heavy rain for a long period with only a few litres in the tank :lol
Better still replace the filler cap seal
Later
Rigth, except that the seal isn't sold separately and the complete filler cap is around $350 :'(
(24-09-23, 09:25 AM)sblar link Wrote: Rigth, except that the seal isn't sold separately and the complete filler cap is around $350 :'(
Try these
https://mtp-racing.com/Fuel-Tank-Cap-7-H...998-2001_1
or
https://www.wemoto.com/bikes/yamaha/fzs_..._spare_key
You could also try these, you need to measure the rubber and email them. Like many parts they aren't always model specific in that they use off the shelf stuff and fit the same parts across many models to cut cost.
https://www.ncjetski.co.uk/products/yama...7u78320100
or use a universal and cut it to size, you just need to make sure it's big enough and the same thickness.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/402352153009?...%3A4429486
It's also possible it's not the rubber but the tank neck that's the issue, either repair it, if possible or replace the tank, for an undamaged one.
Later
Thanks Gnasher, the link to ncjetski looks promising 
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