Scottoiler users....

[NorthWestern]

It has the magnum hcr on it. Plenty left

[stevierst]

Used engine oil contains a few nasty things, unfortunately when mixed with water can chemicaly turn acidic, if you're a unicorn rider then it's not so much of a problem to use on the chain, however, not so helpful if you ride in the rain!

As I've said, I've been using it for years and never had a problem. I'm a 365 biker, and 30k/year. Never had a rotten chain, albeit a very grubby back wheel and swingarm!
Old engine oil has past it's usefulness in an engine, getting compressed, and heated, and cooled, but it's still slippery stuff when it comes out of the sump which is all a chain needs really. It's also pretty well filtered already, but it can't hurt to put it through a coffee filter. Each to their own I suppose, bit I'm too tight to pay for Scottoil that's too thin for what I need all year round, and in all weathers.
Gotta admit that I've got fresh engine oil in my oiler atm (asda cheap crap), but only because I ditched my last mucky oil by mistake in my garage clear out.

[purplebear7]

  Just another thumbs up for the Scotoiler system ...
I've been using them sinse they first surfaced .. many years ago.  Had them on several different types of large bikes .. never bought a chain and can't remember when I last had to adjust one.

I've used all kinds of oil in them .. including Chain Saw Oil and old engine oil .. it all does the job.  Navy Training states: A wet chain is a happy chain  :b  .. and they sure ain't talking salt water  :\

Current chain on my Honda CB 1300 S with Sidecar .. that's a lot of extra weight for any chain to be pulling .. has done just over 22.000 miles to date .. not had to aduust anything yet.

Best bit of kit for any chain driven bike .. in my oopinion  8)    Stay Safe Guys.    Trev the Polar Bear.

[Slaninar]

Used engine oil contains a few nasty things, unfortunately when mixed with water can chemicaly turn acidic, if you're a unicorn rider then it's not so much of a problem to use on the chain, however, not so helpful if you ride in the rain!

Exactly. I've stopped using used engine oil on the bicycle chain long long time ago - it wasn't good. Used engine oil is good for fire and protecting wood on old fences, shacks etc.

[quote author=Punkstig link=topic=11984.msg132369#msg132369 date=1394189078]Used engine oil shouldn't really be used on the chain, spoke to my mechanic about this as intended to put my old oil through a coffee filter and use it in oiler but apparently it can be harmful to the rubber O/X rings.

Change your machanic he hasn't got a clue what he's talking about![/quote]

He is a MECHANIC, not a chemist. Even if he didn't have any clue about oils, he could still be top notch with repairing/replacing bike parts. Old oil does become more acid like - so not the best thing for rubber.

[Punkstig]

Gotta love forums!

[Gnasher]

Exactly. I've stopped using used engine oil on the bicycle chain long long time ago - it wasn't good. Used engine oil is good for fire and protecting wood on old fences, shacks etc.

He is a MECHANIC, not a chemist. Even if he didn't have any clue about oils, he could still be top notch with repairing/replacing bike parts. Old oil does become more acid like - so not the best thing for rubber.

What a load of twaddle "acid like" rubbish before engine oil got the levels of acidity as to be able to attack O or X rings the chain will have worn out due to normal levels of wear and tear.  Service intervals are placed at levels where the oil is still well in grade from some simple tests I did years ago you can almost double the intervals in normal operating conditions without any loss in performance.  Engines since the mid 80's are massively better engineered, cleaner and dump less crap into their oil, yes in extremes it's possible but when was the last time anybody has seen oil sludge or highly carbonised oil during a normal oil change in a healthy engine........................never! 

Any mechanic or persons working on engines and machinery worth their salt should know that, being a chemist has nothing to do with it, hence my comment.   

We are going off at a tangent here the idea of using engine oil is to save money and use less oil in the bargain.  Scott oil is good stuff that said it's bloody expensive standard Halfords 10W40 semi is £21.99 = £4.39 per litre Scottoil £13.88 per litre, remember this is a total loss system.  Scottoil is approximately a £1 more expensive per litre than Halfords 5W40 fully synth 

By using Scottoil you are chucking away 3 times the cost of using new 10W40 engine oil, by using old in grade oil you are saving all that money as you've already paid for it and using less oil so saving a vital resource!

As with everything in life it's a personnel choice if you want to spend your money on whatever that’s your choice and right but please don’t go using ridiculous arguments to support a view or try change the view of others. 

   

[Slaninar]

Any mechanic or persons working on engines and machinery worth their salt should know that, being a chemist has nothing to do with it, hence my comment.   

So you believe he's a bad mechanic? Each to their own.




I've not been happy with the result of old engine oil on bicycle chain, so never even tried it on motorcycle. If it works for you - good. I'm sticking with the Scottoiler's original - 10 euros per year for oiling the chain for me - no problem.

[VNA]

Had Scottoilers on all my bikes, from 92 onwards. 

Never had a dual injector.

On checking the OE front sprocket on my thou a few years back I found it to be worn. So I bought a new chain and sprocket set, renthal sprockets and DID VZM chain, you know folks keep saying you should replace the lot.

I tried to measure the wear on the old chain (17,000 miles use) but I could not find any measurable stretch.  I cut the new chain to length and fitted, the adjuster markers whent straight back to where they were when I took the old one off.  The only time I have to adjust the chain is when I have the wheel off and back on for tyres.  If I don't have a puncture that's 6000 miles without adjusting.

Check the spec of your chain.  If it's a budget chain, it'll stretch.  Double check your adjustment, if in doubt go a touch on the loose side.  A tight chain will stretch, wear your gearbox prematurely or worse still snap.

[fireblake]

I've had them on my past 10 bikes, and I find the single injector needs quite a high flow of oil to get to the inside of the chain. That normally means you get a load on your wheel/tyre.

I do as some others on here, once a month I manually coat the chain in engine oil. I find Scottoil a bit too thin, so i don't use it anymore.  I just put engine oil in it, much better!

I also open up the brass nozzle slightly in the end of the reservoir when using engine oil,it helps with bleeding the system, and gives better control.

So after reading all the comments it's best to assume that using NEW engine oil would be the cheapest and maybe best solution. some basic mineral oil from ASDA or the like.I use my bike all year long but mostly 3 days a week so but funnily enough the last 3 wettest months ever i've ridden it 5 days a week, through flooded roads. I've been using spray chain and cable oiler which i found(Nicked) at work, so messy but doing the job. My Scotoiler is off at the mo due to damaged parts but i hope to replace those soon and resume normal play.


Mickey

[Punkstig]

Gear oil is thicker for use during the summer and can be found less than half the price of scottoil!

[Slaninar]

Local dealer (who uses it on his bike and makes lots of miles on it) said Scottoil is washable by water, which makes it perfect for cleaning. The mileage I make - one bottle last whole year and it costs around 10 euros.

[stevierst]

And it's useless if you ride in the rain, because it washes straight off!

[Slaninar]

And it's useless if you ride in the rain, because it washes straight off!

Water itself is a pretty good lubricant - as long as it's on the chain. When the rain stops, the Scottoiler reapplies itself - so it's all good. Plus the chain cleans itself practically. I was told the main advantages of original oil are the ability to wash it with water more easily and the fact it keeps dropping off the chain - along with all the dirt.




My chain is clean and lubricated - without ever washing it. I'll se how long it lasts in a few more years. Then I'll know if I was told the truth. 

[Gnasher]

Scottoil is not water soluble it's just a light single grade mineral oil and designed to drop off this is partly the reason oil works so much better than sticky spray on oils/greases.  It not only lubricates it washes the chain removing particles of grit if you chuck enough water at grease it will wash off in time and dirt which grind the the bearing surfaces and attack O/X rings.  Yes you can buy these dry lubs and they work but are designed for racing there not really for the day to day all weather environment you get this side of a track sure if you only use your bike for dry summer riding they do the job but if you don’t they wont.

Sticky spray on lubs trap all the crap and turn into a very effective grinding paste, if you use these spray on lubs remove your front sprocket casing and your see a large amount of this sticky paste.  Next wash the chain with paraffin place a plastic sheet under the chain as it dissolve's the old chain lub it will drop off as black liquid dip your finger in it and feel the grit, once the chain is thoroughly covered in paraffin turn the wheel and listen to the grit!  If you going to fit an oiler you must thoroughly clean the sprockets, chain, swing arm and area around the front sprocket, even after doing this you will for a time still get sticky black crap being thrown off this will stop after a while though.   

A lot of oilers are fitted incorrectly or badly, most are not set up properly, if yours is covering your back wheel and rear end in black oil or the chain is dry and rusting it's either incorrectly fitted and/or set, positioning of the applicator is curial most are positioned wrongly in my experience ad this puts off many that try them.  They also need to be adjusted for the changing conditions, heat, cold and rain/water etc.  Engine oil whether new or used is not only cheaper it's better at resisting water and heat as it's a far superior oil and it's a multi grade, where as Scottoil produce a blue for temperate and a red for hot climates.

Obviously it's all down to personnel choice but in my opinion a correctly fitted and set up oiler is the way go.         

[stevierst]

Scottoil is not water soluble it's just a light single grade mineral oil

Not only that, but it's probably a cheap mineral oil put in posh bottles and sold for much more than it's worth!

[mr self destruct]

All interesting stuff cheers! When my oil runs out then I think I'll replace it with cheap multigrade from ASDA then. 

[RobG UK]

Fazer engine oil lasts 6k miles btween service, Hondas do 4k miles with the same oil so get some used  honda oil cos its still got 2k worth of running in it lol

[Dead Eye]

I don't think that's how it works lol

[stevierst]

Fazer engine oil lasts 6k miles btween service, Hondas do 4k miles with the same oil so get some used  honda oil cos its still got 2k worth of running in it lol

???

[fireblake]

Does anyone have any spare clear hose or know a good place to buy it, i'm not sure of the correct measurements of it?




Mickey