oil

[clayt74]

Yep.... Always struggle with the crows foot....... N end up reaching for the camel toe!!!
If that don't do it............ Then just fuck it n put it down as experience  :evil

[ajmes1]

Might be a daft question, but do the header pipes for the exhaust need to be removed to get the filter out? Going to tackle mine soon as it got battered over 2500 miles in a week last summer.

[mickvp]

no, you can get it out with the exhaust in place

(the K&N filter with the nut on top makes life much easier!)

[jason1]

Just use a filter chain to remove -simples-

[ajmes1]

Awesome, I'd seen the k&n one which would mean I wouldn't have to borrow the tool off my dad each time!

[john boy]

where is the sump drain plug on a fzs600

[darrsi]

where is the sump drain plug on a fzs600

Download this for now, but worth getting yourself a proper book manual as well.


http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=down...ew;down=22

[noggythenog]

Just for the record i ran my fazer last year on 5W 30.mainly coz i focced up with not reading the online description properly.....bike ran sweet....no issues.


But i have treated it with Activ8  :lurk :lurk :lurk :thumbup



And here's a pic of a new sump plug & washer.....note the washer was loose in the bag so prob just chucked in as an after thought, it is skanky looking but really lightweight ie doesnt feel like metal, plus it is thick, but i think these qualities add to its crushability.....so i wouldnt just use any old washer.


Only cost a couple o quid so i bought 2 to save me the hassle this year when i change the oil.


For once i used some forward thinking. 8)

[darrsi]

Just for the record i ran my fazer last year on 5W 30.mainly coz i focced up with not reading the online description properly.....bike ran sweet....no issues.


But i have treated it with Activ8  :lurk :lurk :lurk :thumbup



And here's a pic of a new sump plug & washer.....note the washer was loose in the bag so prob just chucked in as an after thought, it is skanky looking but really lightweight ie doesnt feel like metal, plus it is thick, but i think these qualities add to its crushability.....so i wouldnt just use any old washer.


Only cost a couple o quid so i bought 2 to save me the hassle this year when i change the oil.


For once i used some forward thinking. 8)

Did i hear someone say Activ8?  :thumbup

[noggythenog]

Did i hear someone say Activ8?  :thumbup



That's the forward planning i was referring to.



Ha ha, i knew i'd reel you in with that one Darrsi :lol


To be fair though the noggyfighter has sustained some consistent abuse & is not giving me any engine or gearbox  issues, very slick i must say, even with 5w30.& with crashing....& constant red lining.


Some people wear a cross on a chain to get good luck & longevity.


Others Omega 3, 6 & 9


Many swear by olive oil


Real men trust Activ8 mokin


have they got any jobs going?????? :rolleyes

[Gnasher]

Did i hear someone say Activ8?  :thumbup

Is a waste of money as is all the other oil additives for any normal road use in my opinion, modern oils contain all these so called additives already.  All these claims of improved power etc, etc have been disproved or couldn't be proved by the motoring press over and over, and any proved improvements were so small as to be unnoticeable to a driver/rider think they call in the "placebo effect"!  In my experience some of these additives have been found to cause poor running, increased fuel consumption, dirty emissions, even damage!  How you say, they are base on compounds that have much smaller molecules hence the claim of less friction, which is true.  That said however these molecules find their way past oil seals, rings and are burnt, especially turbo seals where the intercoolers are turned into oil tanks!  This reduces power, increases fuel consumption and emissions plus as far as I know NO manufacturer recommends their use...........
             
Oils coupled with better quality materials and higher machining accuracy are areas where things have moved on massively in the last 20yrs lots of car manufactures have for sometime now increased oil changes to 20k plus even newer Porsche's! Admittedly bike oil also lub's the gear boxes and the shearing motion does degrade the oil faster but not as fast as they will have you believe.  Yamaha actually increased the service intervals for the Fazer 600 in 01 from 4k to 6k and they had done nothing to it just acknowledgement of better oils and less service time.

I did some test 10yrs ago when I had access to oil testing and run my then car (Omega V6) on fully syth Mobile 1 it was still in grade and clean with minimal contamination hence it still being clean after 40K.  I looked after a Hyabusa run on the same bike specific oil after 5k running on good quality semi syth it was run on fully syth tested every 3k it was still clean and in grade at 20k and he used to run it in Ultimate Super Bike as it was at the time.  I'm NOT saying you should just disregard what manufactures tell you as my experiments where under control conditions with access to all the right kit but many owners change their oil way too soon halving what is the recommended intervals.  Mostly based on auto service industry recommendations based on 50 year old information why..........they sell oil and filters!
             
You need nothing more than a good quality semi syth even full syth is a waste in normal use in your average weather conditions, and at least stick to manufactures oil change intervals..............but if you want to add it that's your choice.

[noggythenog]

[quote author=noggythenog link=topic=11141.msg121100#msg121100 date=1389632260]
Did i hear someone say Activ8?  :thumbup

Is a waste of money as is all the other oil additives for any normal road use in my opinion, modern oils contain all these so called additives already.  All these claims of improved power etc, etc have been disproved or couldn't be proved by the motoring press over and over, and any proved improvements were so small as to be unnoticeable to a driver/rider think they call in the "placebo effect"!  In my experience some of these additives have been found to cause poor running, increased fuel consumption, dirty emissions, even damage!  How you say, they are base on compounds that have much smaller molecules hence the claim of less friction, which is true.  That said however these molecules find their way past oil seals, rings and are burnt, especially turbo seals where the intercoolers are turned into oil tanks!  This reduces power, increases fuel consumption and emissions plus as far as I know NO manufacturer recommends their use...........
             
Oils coupled with better quality materials and higher machining accuracy are areas where things have moved on massively in the last 20yrs lots of car manufactures have for sometime now increased oil changes to 20k plus even newer Porsche's! Admittedly bike oil also lub's the gear boxes and the shearing motion does degrade the oil faster but not as fast as they will have you believe.  Yamaha actually increased the service intervals for the Fazer 600 in 01 from 4k to 6k and they had done nothing to it just acknowledgement of better oils and less service time.

I did some test 10yrs ago when I had access to oil testing and run my then car (Omega V6) on fully syth Mobile 1 it was still in grade and clean with minimal contamination hence it still being clean after 40K.  I looked after a Hyabusa run on the same bike specific oil after 5k running on good quality semi syth it was run on fully syth tested every 3k it was still clean and in grade at 20k and he used to run it in Ultimate Super Bike as it was at the time.  I'm NOT saying you should just disregard what manufactures tell you as my experiments where under control conditions with access to all the right kit but many owners change their oil way too soon halving what is the recommended intervals.  Mostly based on auto service industry recommendations based on 50 year old information why..........they sell oil and filters!
             
You need nothing more than a good quality semi syth even full syth is a waste in normal use in your average weather conditions, and at least stick to manufactures oil change intervals..............but if you want to add it that's your choice.
[/quote]


We knew you'd say that!!!! :b


See you on the next malfunction thread  :lol :lol :lol

[ajmes1]

Just changed my oil and filter, and have just seen the warning in the haynes manual about not over tightening the filter.


May I just ask, what are the issues with this, as I used the crows foot tool to nip it up so it's on a bit tighter than finger tight, but as the crows foot was ill fitting it's bent the filter casing slightly.


Worth replacing again for peace of mind or should it be ok?


If it did need replacing, i assume its a full oil out job etc. again!


Sorry for what may seem like a trivial issue, I just have an ocd about this sort of thing!!!! (and it was my first full oil/filter change in a long long time)

[Gnasher]

As you've discovered if too much force is applied the filter body will twist after all its really nothing more than a can!

The same will happen when you try to remove it if you over tighten them, which then turns a very simple job into a right pain often having to puncher the filter to remove it with restricted space and all the mess, it can mean removal of the down tubes!

If you've bent/twisted your filter putting it on you will without doubt have difficulties removing it after 6k.

I would recommend you replace it now, get the correct tool, jack up the front end so as to rest the rear wheel on the ground this will save as much of your new oil as possible.  There will be some spillage but not a great deal fit a new filter tighten it hand tight and then a 1/4 turn with the filter tool, top up the oil and clean the down tubes job done. 

[ajmes1]

brill thanks for the quick reply!


Thats something for the weekend then, next time i should throughly read the haynes manual which I have (now) downloaded haha


So it's more a question of ease of removing next time rather than functionality? I'm not planning on using it much between now and the spring but just wanted to make sure that it's going to do it's job right.

[darrsi]

"....In my experience some of these additives have been found to cause poor running, increased fuel consumption, dirty emissions, even damage!...."

But i have the opposite of all of the above.

[Fazerider]

As I've never had any difficulties removing old oil filters (a few taps against the rim with a sharpened screwdriver aimed about 20º steeper than the tangent always shifts them easily), I can't see the point in wasting a new filter. Let it do its job and change it at the recommended interval.

[fazersharp]

That washer  as far as I know it should be an Auluminium one like a dohnut that crushes when done up -- its called a crush washer so that you dont have to tighten the nut up so much

[darrsi]

That's a BIG photo of a washer.  :lol

[fazersharp]

I copied and pasted and it came out at the enlarged full size