Chain snap :(

[andybesy]

Maybe silly suggestion but could a washer be used?

[davidkent]

Had crossed my mind, I'm not certain how the seal actually fits, could potentially even weld a washer in there

[darrsi]

Your camera cant focus because it cant "see" you need to shine a tourch onto it so the camera can then see to focus and then take the picture - and dont try to get so close

The camera can't focus because it's too close, look in the menu and switch to "macro" for close up shots.
That is presuming he's using a digital phone/camera.

[limax2]

Had crossed my mind, I'm not certain how the seal actually fits, could potentially even weld a washer in there

Wow  :eek . I don't understand why you would want to weld a washer there  :\ .
Looking at your overall photo it looks like the steel tab that stops the oil seal coming out has been bent down. By this I mean the steel plate that is held in place by two 6mm cap head screws, one directly above the sprocket and one below the sprocket. Item 36 in this link https://www.motorcyclespareparts.eu/spec...art=351467 That plate acts to stop the drive shaft oil seal moving out and also part of the plate just covers the push-rod seal to stop that dropping out. Normally it shouldn't be doing much but in your case it could be a good thing.

This is what I suggest.
1. Get the rest of the push rod out. If the steel bit you have looks brocken then there should still be some in the rest of the push-rod, so as suggested before a magnetic screw driver might work. If all the steel end has come out then you might get a grip on the alloy tube with a long wood screw or something. If not then it's off with the clutch cover and tackle it from that side.
2. Replace the oil seal. As long as there is enough undamaged crankcase hole to locate the new oil seal in the correct position, (there will be), put the oil seal in and fill any gaps with chemical metal as suggested by fazersharp.
3. Make sure that oil seal cover plate is ok. If not get a new one or make a better one.
4. Fit replacement push rod and outer cover.
5. Follow instructions for setting clutch cable and away you go.
The end.   

[fazersharp]

To be  fair ebme geek said it first (chem metal)
I have a question----- how wet is the clutch or is it sort of splashed with oil. when I took out my pushrod -yes the seal MAY of wiped off most of any oil there but ive pushed it in and out and the hole as far as I can see has nothing more that a thin layer of oil in there. And the seal was not tight.
What Im saying is how good a seal do you need there   

[limax2]

fazersharp. At a guess I'd say the clutch is just above the stationary oil level but the gear on the clutch might be in it. Either way when it's running oil will be splashed about all over the place and the clutch will get some and gears will get a good soaking. The clutch push rod is fairly well hidden in there and with centrifugal force wont see much of of the oil. More of a worry would be grit etc getting in if the seal was really bad. Unless you're thinking of riding in about 18 inches of water and the seal is not making contact I wouldn't worry about it.

Edit. Actually the gear on the clutch basket is above the stationary oil level and it is the oil pump gear that dips into it. Still the same effect though of oil all over the place when running.

[fazersharp]

I see - its not for my seal but for the OP to know how good his new bodge up needs to be. Although I was interested too in the workings

[davidkent]

When running i'm sure it'll be under a bit of pressure.
I have some better pics now, which I'll upload in a minute.
Limax, what you're saying sounds right to an extent, but the bit doesn't look replaceable at all, but yes perhaps a new seal and something to seal it well could work, personal experience says Chemical metal isn't all that great though, but surely perhaps some kind of instant gasket to fill the gap between the ovaled hole and the seal?


Pics may explain more in a sec


Cheers

[davidkent]

[darrsi]

Is that a 9mm sprocket nut i can see?

[davidkent]

Probably, though slightly irrelevant now as it'll be changed with the replacement parts

[darrsi]

Probably, though slightly irrelevant now as it'll be changed with the replacement parts

For anyone who's not sure, you can see in David's photo's that the sprocket nut is not flush with the end of the shaft and you can still see a couple of threads, the new 12mm nut sits totally in line with the end of the shaft so you shouldn't see any thread at all.

Sorry for slightly going off topic but it's a good photo to explain it. 

[davidkent]

No worries, explains it a little better for myself anyway
Cheers

[nick crisp]

What was your experience with chemical metal? It would be interesting to hear, as a number of people have considered it for various fixes, but I've yet to see anything definitive on the subject. I would've thought it'd be ok in this instance, as the application area shouldn't need to take much stress of any kind?

[davidkent]

Just not holding, falling off and the like, as a general rule

[nick crisp]

No experience in this myself, but is it too delicate/awkward an area to build up a little weld on?

[davidkent]

The more i think of it the more i think this could be the option really...


Just finding someone to do it, usually material dependant - i don't even know what the crank case is made of, i'm sure it isn't straight aluminium, but a cast?

[nick crisp]

I have some experience of having a crankcase welded - not a good experience unfortunately.
I had a Kwak 750 H2 that wouldn't change gear - absolutely solid on the lever. Had the engine out and apart to find that the crankcase had cracked around the gearbox area. A friend of mine who was a pretty experienced welder had a try, but every time he tried to weld a bit, the heat just distorted and cracked the cases elsewhere. BUT, the cases on that bike were a really crappy quality ally, very thin and easily prone to cracking (vibration used to crack them around the engine mounts - they were known for it.) I think maybe the Fazer would withstand welding on the cases a lot better? Not sure though... :\

[davidkent]

Ah i see.
My local Yamaha Dealer did forward me on to some places for crank case welding if they'd split, apparently they'd used them before - Plus, as its a small area i can't see it being all too much greif really..


Worth an ask, assumably its cast and not just alu?

[nick crisp]

Not a metallurgist myself - I thought cast was just the method of producing the item, as opposed to extruded etc. But yes, just aluminium as far as I'm aware. Might be different grades? Now you need someone above my (extremely) limited knowledge  :rolleyes