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Which Oil Is Best?
#21
Easy Rider 13, what have you done?  I saw your post and thought take cover.  It is a much discussed subject, as you can now tell.  Something the right spec, semi-synth, nothing fancy, will do the job.
Cheers
Dave
Red (original '98) is the fastest colour
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#22
Oh yeah :oops
sorry fazerrider i did mean easy rider.
Red Heads - Slowly taking over the world!!!
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#23
Quote:the Major who doesn't actually have the courage of his convictions and so changes his oil twice as often.

Not true !!... I do it because I have DATA ( y'know ... evidence with numbers :pokefun ) that shows that ALL OIL degrades in use and none of them can be trusted to stay within their viscosity window more than a few K miles and it is therefore good for my engine.*

Here it is :
[table][tr][td][/td][td][/td][td][/td][td]Relative Viscosity Retention (as a percentage of initial viscosity retained
after normal use in the same motorcycle)
[/td][/tr][tr][td] [/td][td]0 miles[/td][td]800mi[/td][td]1500mi[/td][/tr][tr][td]
Mobil 1
Castrol Syntec
Castrol GTX
Honda HP4
Spectro 4
[/td][td]100%
100%
100%
100%
100%
[/td][td]86.6%
78.1%
72.2%
69.2%
68.0%
[/td][td]83.0%
74.5%
68.0%
65.6%
63.9%
[/td][/tr][/table]

* Actually synthetic oils can (see Mobil 1 above).. I'm leaning towards the use of Asda or Tesco Fully Synthetic, which has been wondrous in the car - still amber and oily after 11K miles
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#24
Quote:Have you tried any fully synth car oil in Fazer engine (and clutch)? Was everything fine?

No, but I'm leaning that way (as I said above) and I will use it next time. Others on here have used it and there was 1 bloke reporting what he thought was clutch-slip. Worst that can heppen is that I take it out and use it to top-up the car.
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#25
(28-10-11, 06:57 PM)Major Rant link Wrote: ... ALL OIL degrades in use and none of them can be trusted to stay within their viscosity window more than a few K miles...


Indeed, but presumably Yamaha are aware of that too. If they'd cynically increased the service interval from 4000 to 6000 miles in order to sell more spares they'd soon find a reputation for selling vehicles that don't last isn't good for business. Unless you're seeing if you can get a world record mileage out of a Fazer engine I can't see the point in changing oil more frequently than the manufacturers recommend.


I tried to find some details on the Tesco website about their fully synthetic, aside from a choice of 5W30 or 5W40 the information was limited to advice that nutritional content is subject to change. :lol
Since viscosity modifiers supposedly get chewed up worse by the higher speeds in bike gearboxes, wouldn't an oil like that (with a wider range than required) suffer more than a 10W40?
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#26
(28-10-11, 11:38 PM)Fazerider link Wrote: Since viscosity modifiers supposedly get chewed up worse by the higher speeds in bike gearboxes, wouldn't an oil like that (with a wider range than required) suffer more than a 10W40?

Yes it would. 10w40, 15w50 are longer lasting ones. 10w50, 5w40 would break up quicker. However, good quality full synth can hold well for 4000 mile change interval in a Fazer engine.
Most things done in a hurry need to be done again - patiently.
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#27
(27-10-11, 11:04 PM)SteveCardiff link Wrote: Always used semi synth Vauxhall car oil in my bikes cos I get it almost free. Used it in GPZ9, did about 15k on that, CBR Thou, took that from 25k to 67k, and my current CBR Thou has close on 50k on it. Never had problems.


There was also a bloke in 'Ride' magazine (i think) a few years back who was a courier. He did 440,000 miles on one of his VFR800s and used the cheapest car oil he could find. Changed it every week and had no problems either.
i have used vauxhall oil in my bikes in the past and i also have had no issues with it and i would use it again,and i can also get it cheap as well
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#28
I get my engine oil from Morrisons, I think its Comma brand or some such, cheap, meets the specs and life is too short to worry about whether your toy will go around the clock unless youre a courier or something. Not that I want to sound contentous or anything...
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#29
Wilkos for me
Sent from my pants - using talkingbollocks
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#30
Hmmm Wilkos, soundslike quality so I'll give it a go jacko. Thanks for the tip.The money that I save over the Motul rubbish I can spend on skin care products cos I like to pamper myself.  Big Grin
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#31
(27-10-11, 11:11 PM)daveph link Wrote: Easy Rider 13, what have you done?  I saw your post and thought take cover.  It is a much discussed subject, as you can now tell.  Something the right spec, semi-synth, nothing fancy, will do the job.
Cheers
Dave

hey dave,
after reading all this everyday i am even more confused then before, ha! I really just needed to know which oil it is i.e. 10/40 4stroke etc, only ever having a moped before my bike! I think im looking at the silkolene stuffs which i can buy with my service kit?

BTW, is 4 litres enough for a full oil change?

cheeerrrrrrs!

(p.s.... you may continue your bickerments as it is rather enjpyable  :lol )
Ride It Like You've Stole It
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#32
BTW, is 4 litres enough for a full oil change?


I think its nearer 3 litres.

If you want to buy "Silkolene" after reading and digesting what's been said above then go ahead.

While worshiping at your shrine you can think of me relaxing on my atheist sun-lounger while I'm not earning the money that I'm unnecessarily paying to the marketing suits that sell the snake-oil. Big Grin

I'll be using someone's unbranded synthetic 10/40 next time for £3 a litre.
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#33
Thats what i mean Major, with all these different opinions i am still non the wiser as to what i should use.... i know in my moped i used the Comma and that was fairly ok, and have used cheaper versions for that.

So is cheap ok, does it make a difference ?
Ride It Like You've Stole It
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#34
Tonie, if you want a consensus view on the best oil to use you've come to the wrong place! There are as many opinions as there are oils available.
The main problem is the oil companies are a secretive lot... even if you can find something claiming to be a technical specification for a particular product it turns out to be vague advertising puff.
We do know that bike engines are a tougher challenge for oil than car engines, and also (mostly) have the constraint of a wet clutch. We also know the wear reducers of last resort, those containing zinc and phosphorous, are not good for catalytic converters so the concentrations are restricted in car oils. Now, since bikes in the UK don't need cats, in theory, motorcycle oils could contain higher levels of these additives. Whether they actually do is another matter, the rest of the EU says bikes do need cats... so do oil companies make different oils for us bikers in the UK? I don't know the answer to that. I just guess they might and can at least be sure that if it says "Motorcycle" on the can it's not going to contain additives that make the clutch slip.
It's not like the difference in price is that great. If you buy the cheapest car oil you can find, you might save £12 on the oil change compared to something that says motorcycle on the container, which equates to about a fifth of a penny per mile... that compares with around 11p per mile you're spending on fuel (assuming your bike returns about 52mpg, which is what mine does).
For peace of mind, that's not a saving I regard as worth making.


Hope you're having a happy birthday, btw and I hope someone bought you four litres of expensive bike oil. :lol
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#35
Quote: Hope you're having a happy birthday, btw and I hope someone bought you four litres of expensive bike oil. [img alt=:lol]http://foc-u.co.uk/Smileys/efocicon/lol.gif[/img]

Luckily for me my mom decided to go to the shop and buy me a service kit for my bday! she also got the Silkolene oil as its mid price range, havent done the oil change as yet, thats the plan for after work today !

Thanks for all the advice people! Smile
Ride It Like You've Stole It
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