(09-02-23, 08:53 PM)jul1us Wrote: Thank you so much for these incredibly detailed answers which are so helpful.
Gaz66, so you are saying cleaning the carb ultrasonic is bad?
I just bought another carb on eBay to be safe (and leave my current one untouched), it has been already cleaned ultrasonic by the seller.
There are also Tourmax repair sets included. Can you see from the photo if they include everything I need?
Photos:
https://i.imgur.com/3PBMYMw.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/hpeg0Qe.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/cUHBJcy.jpg
The diaphragm seems not included. Would you recommend this:
1. https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005004439949836.html
or
2. https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005004511397054.html
Also, the seller of the carb also wants to sell me this "Long Boy extended Fuel Screw Set": http://www.factorypro.com/Prod_Pages/prody69.html
Would you recommend that with the Ivan Kit or is it not needed?
Hay Julius.
To answer your query on ultrasonic cleaning, it has its place, I find it's pointless unless you completely disassemble a bank of carbs so you can rotate them around in the machine, something that can't be done assembled, I prefer a chemical solvent cleaner (Holts EGR cleaner) really potent stuff, dissolves all oxidation on alloy & brass parts, just keep it away from plastic & rubber, guitar string cut offs are ok to poke stubborn pilot jets clear, recently come across a potentially better jet poker (3D printer nozzle cleaners) cheap too, no carb jet cleaning tools exists, don't fall for the rubbish marketed as jet cleaners, it's not, it's a gas welding torch nozzle cleaner & it's abrasive.
Just seen the links of carb spares.
Genuine is always best, many parts are no longer available.
Tourmax = OEM quality, it's often new old stock Genuine parts repackaged at a lesser price, all come from Japan, quality is second to none imho, I use lots Tourmax hydraulic brake repair kits, I 100% recommend them.
Avoid cheap carb jet kits, Keyster is a popular brand, mostly ok if you're stuck for parts, but they do sell some crap float bowl seals in some kits, I swerve em if possible.
Re: Second hand carbs:
Check slide rubber diaphragms in a dark room backlit with a small torch, only way to verify there's no micro pin holes present, replace every O'ring in the carbs, split em apart & replace the lot.
Viton O'rings are the seals of choice for many, Viton is way way over priced.
Air-con spec green Nitrile O'rings, box of 250 off eBay cost less than a dozen Viton seals.
These seals are higher spec than the black nitrile, both are fuel resistant, most fuel hoses are made from Nitrile, I see no reason to pay silly money for Viton seals.
I've serviced hundreds of sets of carbs, I buy a couple of boxes of metric & imperial of green Nitrile, gives numerous sizes to play with, I find it often works for a better snug fit to go down a size & up in thickness, seals are a stretch fit, but they're are a tad thicker & actually fit more snug than the so called correct sized seals, especially the pesky little seals in between the carb bodies on the fuel link pipes, I always use a tiny smear of silicon gun grease, it keeps seals supple, they never dry out or leak.
I can re-seal a bank of carbs for a pennies compared to the Viton stuff.
Re: Ivans jet kit:
As I've said before & many other forum members will echo this .. DEFO YES YES YES, buy an MB kit, you won't be disappointed.
Re: Extended fuel mixture screws.
Mmmm potentially a good idea, unless you have a wide band gas analyser, you'll get no more benefit than using the OEM screws, access is poor even with extended screws, carb over starter motor it's virtually impossible to adjust its mixture screw where you want it, access is that bad, I drop the starter motor out if I need to tweek screws.
It's all guess work unless you want accuracy & that requires a gas analyser of some description, hence the bolts in each of the lower exhaust headers.