05-12-23, 06:12 PM
Well this bike keeps kicking my ass!
manged to get 2 of 8 studs out so far the most outer on each side, one with heat, few sharp blows and double nut method.
went and purchased a roll type extractor the 3 pins in sized socket type, worked great on the only stud it can get into!
Either the frame fouls the use of the extractor or the engine casing itself blocks access.
Not taken the radiator or forks off yet as not convinced it will help the access is fouled by the frame not the radiator.
Have tried heat and sharp knock on a couple just stripping the nuts out if i try the 2 nut method, will spin both nuts on the stud before it budges.
Short of taking the engine out and drilling them all out any obvious tricks I am missing? I don;t have a welder to hand to weld a nut onto the stud, plus concerned it will work harden the stud making it hard to drill out .
So now have 6 studs still in place 3 full height but badly corroded and 3 sheared off about half way down still about 10mm showing, cent even get a pipe wrench in to apply brute force an shear off flush or below.
my only other thought is apply silly amounts of heat to the head around the stud and use m6 connector nuts cut to size with a locknut on the end, the theory being the increased surface area like a double height nut will grip more thread area and less likely to just spin.
open to suggestions of those who have endured this pain.
other answer is break it for parts try and get something back on it
manged to get 2 of 8 studs out so far the most outer on each side, one with heat, few sharp blows and double nut method.
went and purchased a roll type extractor the 3 pins in sized socket type, worked great on the only stud it can get into!
Either the frame fouls the use of the extractor or the engine casing itself blocks access.
Not taken the radiator or forks off yet as not convinced it will help the access is fouled by the frame not the radiator.
Have tried heat and sharp knock on a couple just stripping the nuts out if i try the 2 nut method, will spin both nuts on the stud before it budges.
Short of taking the engine out and drilling them all out any obvious tricks I am missing? I don;t have a welder to hand to weld a nut onto the stud, plus concerned it will work harden the stud making it hard to drill out .
So now have 6 studs still in place 3 full height but badly corroded and 3 sheared off about half way down still about 10mm showing, cent even get a pipe wrench in to apply brute force an shear off flush or below.
my only other thought is apply silly amounts of heat to the head around the stud and use m6 connector nuts cut to size with a locknut on the end, the theory being the increased surface area like a double height nut will grip more thread area and less likely to just spin.
open to suggestions of those who have endured this pain.
other answer is break it for parts try and get something back on it