29-04-23, 08:41 AM
(This post was last modified: 29-04-23, 08:45 AM by Falcon 269.)
Well done to get the kit installed but for others following your lead, a couple of observations to hopefully make the job less physical ... 
No need for lashing straps to hold the airbox back. Just tighten the top airbox retaining bolt. The key is to make sure you move the EXUP cables and breather hose from between the airbox and the frame so that you can slide it fully back in the first place. Also, make sure the rubber tank support pad on the frame cross member - the one that's zip-tied in place - hasn't rotated to a position where it fouls the airbox.
I used to remove the throttle cables at the grip end but stopped doing that after the first couple of dozen installations. It took too long.
Instead, wind in the adjuster at the throttle end to give maximum slack for when you remove the cables at the carb pulley end. The trick here is to ease the carbs across the back of the engine and then out to the left side and forward slightly. Balance the carb bank on your knee and use both hands to remove the cable nipples from the pulley. The top one comes out really easily. The lower one requires you to rotate the pulley and use a hooked tool to slip the cable off the pulley. You might want to put something over the cam box cover to protect it from scratching in case you bang the carbs against it.
NB. I think Ivan himself moves the carbs across to the left and then pushes #3 & 4 carbs into stubs #1 & 2 to hold them while he unhooks the cables from the side. I've never tried that method, mine was just too easy for me.
No criticism intended here but if the carbs can be removed in 15 - 20 minutes using the right techniques and tools, it is not fundamentally a difficult task. Refitting takes 20 - 25 minutes, allowing for checking that everything is correctly in place and tightened properly.
Which leads me to refitting the carbs into the intake stubs. If you don't need a crowbar to get them out of the stubs, you don't need straps and levers and Lord knows what else to refit them.
Use silicone lube, soap or whatever to lube the intake stubs and the airbox connector tubes. Make sure that the clamps on the intake stubs are correctly positioned and not constricting the stub.
Once you have slid the carbs across to the correct position, offer them to the intake stubs but don't push at this stage. Rotate the carbs up and down slightly until you feel them centre in all the stubs, then start to push. I found that having them angled slightly below level and tilting them upwards as I pressed them in worked best. If they don't want to go in, back off and reposition them again. Brute force is not necessary. If you have to resort to force, you're doing it the wrong way.
Handy hint. If you're doing this on a cold engine/cold day, use a hair dryer to warm the stubs to make them more pliable.
Nice one, Julius - good luck with the rest of your work and please let us know when it's up and running. :thumbup
No need for lashing straps to hold the airbox back. Just tighten the top airbox retaining bolt. The key is to make sure you move the EXUP cables and breather hose from between the airbox and the frame so that you can slide it fully back in the first place. Also, make sure the rubber tank support pad on the frame cross member - the one that's zip-tied in place - hasn't rotated to a position where it fouls the airbox.
I used to remove the throttle cables at the grip end but stopped doing that after the first couple of dozen installations. It took too long.
Instead, wind in the adjuster at the throttle end to give maximum slack for when you remove the cables at the carb pulley end. The trick here is to ease the carbs across the back of the engine and then out to the left side and forward slightly. Balance the carb bank on your knee and use both hands to remove the cable nipples from the pulley. The top one comes out really easily. The lower one requires you to rotate the pulley and use a hooked tool to slip the cable off the pulley. You might want to put something over the cam box cover to protect it from scratching in case you bang the carbs against it. NB. I think Ivan himself moves the carbs across to the left and then pushes #3 & 4 carbs into stubs #1 & 2 to hold them while he unhooks the cables from the side. I've never tried that method, mine was just too easy for me.
No criticism intended here but if the carbs can be removed in 15 - 20 minutes using the right techniques and tools, it is not fundamentally a difficult task.
Refitting takes 20 - 25 minutes, allowing for checking that everything is correctly in place and tightened properly.Which leads me to refitting the carbs into the intake stubs. If you don't need a crowbar to get them out of the stubs, you don't need straps and levers and Lord knows what else to refit them.
Use silicone lube, soap or whatever to lube the intake stubs and the airbox connector tubes. Make sure that the clamps on the intake stubs are correctly positioned and not constricting the stub.
Once you have slid the carbs across to the correct position, offer them to the intake stubs but don't push at this stage. Rotate the carbs up and down slightly until you feel them centre in all the stubs, then start to push. I found that having them angled slightly below level and tilting them upwards as I pressed them in worked best. If they don't want to go in, back off and reposition them again. Brute force is not necessary. If you have to resort to force, you're doing it the wrong way.
Handy hint. If you're doing this on a cold engine/cold day, use a hair dryer to warm the stubs to make them more pliable.
Nice one, Julius - good luck with the rest of your work and please let us know when it's up and running. :thumbup