Seems like plates will be the logical next move.
***** These instructions are for AFTER MARKET friction plates which have TWO types in the kit. OEM plate kits have THREE types. SEE BELOW *****
Few bits of advice:
Buy new spring bolts, they're not expensive.
Buy OEM springs, NOT heavy duty ones.
Buy clutch cover gasket
Soak the new friction pads overnight in engine oil.
PUT THE BIKE IN GEAR BEFORE TAKING THE CLUTCH COVER OFF
*** You can lean the bike onto the side stand, and work on the clutch without needing to drain the oil, as the oil will collect over to the left side of the bike. But don't attempt to move or put the bike upright with the clutch cover off or you will lose your oil all over the floor. ***
One of your new friction plates will have a narrower pad area, with the pads towards the outside.
The order of replacing is:
Normal size friction plate
Steel plate
Judder spring
Narrower friction plate (spring fits inside of this plate)
Steel plate
Then friction/steel/friction/etc.
The steel plates have a tiny curved edge on one side.
On refitting them aim the curved side inwards towards the engine.
Before tightening the spring bolts, it's worth undoing the locking nut in the sprocket cover and unscrewing the adjuster screw. This is so the pressure plate has no resistance at all against it when the bolts are tightened.
Use a smaller torque wrench to torque the spring bolts, because they only need 8Nm but should be all tightened equally.
DO NOT use copper grease or thread lock on the spring bolts.
[size=1em]This is the actual kit i bought - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/195171835065?...R8rm-6HrYA[/size]
***** These instructions are for AFTER MARKET friction plates which have TWO types in the kit. OEM plate kits have THREE types. SEE BELOW *****
Few bits of advice:
Buy new spring bolts, they're not expensive.
Buy OEM springs, NOT heavy duty ones.
Buy clutch cover gasket
Soak the new friction pads overnight in engine oil.
PUT THE BIKE IN GEAR BEFORE TAKING THE CLUTCH COVER OFF
*** You can lean the bike onto the side stand, and work on the clutch without needing to drain the oil, as the oil will collect over to the left side of the bike. But don't attempt to move or put the bike upright with the clutch cover off or you will lose your oil all over the floor. ***
One of your new friction plates will have a narrower pad area, with the pads towards the outside.
The order of replacing is:
Normal size friction plate
Steel plate
Judder spring
Narrower friction plate (spring fits inside of this plate)
Steel plate
Then friction/steel/friction/etc.
The steel plates have a tiny curved edge on one side.
On refitting them aim the curved side inwards towards the engine.
Before tightening the spring bolts, it's worth undoing the locking nut in the sprocket cover and unscrewing the adjuster screw. This is so the pressure plate has no resistance at all against it when the bolts are tightened.
Use a smaller torque wrench to torque the spring bolts, because they only need 8Nm but should be all tightened equally.
DO NOT use copper grease or thread lock on the spring bolts.
[size=1em]This is the actual kit i bought - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/195171835065?...R8rm-6HrYA[/size]
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.