15-12-21, 10:20 AM
(14-12-21, 10:57 PM)b1k3rdude link Wrote: Gnasher will correct me if wrong, but you should only adjust the tensionor when its installed in the engine.
[font=verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif]Correct, the centre bolt is removed to allow the tension to be released, before you undo and remove the tensioner, it's then refitted in reverse order. Once the tensioner is out of the cylinder block, you should inspect all the components for wear/missing/damaged teeth etc and test for smooth one way operation. Replace if worn or it's not smooth.
(14-12-21, 10:57 PM)b1k3rdude link Wrote: Check with Gnasher when, your supposed to set the tension (hot or cold engine).
Cold
(14-12-21, 10:57 PM)b1k3rdude link Wrote: @Gnasher, is it possible the noise is then a poorly adjusted tappet..?
There are no tappets i.e. screw/lock nut, just inverted bucket and shims. As such there's no adjustment other than replacing the shim. Bucket and shim tend not to tap and they tighten during use (valve seat wear) which is the opposite for tappets.
The noise I'm hearing is as I've stated in my last post. It always possible for a cam chain to fail at this low milage, but in my experience that would be very unusual. I know of only 2 that have failed, one was because the owner removed the tensioner and forgot to one of the balls back in. The second owner rebuilt the engine due to a lack of oil and didn't refit the front chain guide.
I've never had in that has failed due to wear or component failure. I still see bikes with beyond 130k miles running on their original chains and tensioners.
Later