08-10-21, 09:57 AM
(This post was last modified: 08-10-21, 10:15 AM by CountFazer.)
Thanks Gnasher for your very detailed response.
The cam chain is rattling pretty loud. Here's a video. https://youtu.be/mAQfPnmdCBw
I've checked the CCT and it is at the 9th click of 12 which makes me think the problem is the cam chain.
Funnily enough, I recently got a parts bike (FZS600 1999) with the same mileage and very little cam chain sound. At this point I am unsure which will become the main bike as the parts bike needs work too. But for now I am committed to replacing the cam chain on my project.
I've got a soft link chain for the replacement as I'm trying to avoid the work involved in installing an endless chain. Thanks for your warning about compressing the rivet and for the explanation for pulling through the new cam chain.
I've done a fair bit of research and I'm confident that if I take it slow I can work it out. The main things that I will be focusing on are
(08-10-21, 08:54 AM)Gnasher link Wrote:
First why are you changing it at only 43k miles?
The cam chain is rattling pretty loud. Here's a video. https://youtu.be/mAQfPnmdCBw
I've checked the CCT and it is at the 9th click of 12 which makes me think the problem is the cam chain.
Funnily enough, I recently got a parts bike (FZS600 1999) with the same mileage and very little cam chain sound. At this point I am unsure which will become the main bike as the parts bike needs work too. But for now I am committed to replacing the cam chain on my project.
(08-10-21, 08:54 AM)Gnasher link Wrote: Personally I don't use split link or soft link cam chains. The former just isn't strong enough and the latter often is either over tight or too loose both will shorten chain life, I've seen DIY replaced chains fail in under 3k. Fit endless, yes it's a bit more work and expense but it won't fail and last as mentioned 70k plus. It you must use a split/soft link, slide the new chain on to the old, thread some thin solid copper wire through the links, in a criss/cross pattern. Make sure the ends are on the outside, twist off the ends and fold flat, pull the chain through by rotating the crank.
I've got a soft link chain for the replacement as I'm trying to avoid the work involved in installing an endless chain. Thanks for your warning about compressing the rivet and for the explanation for pulling through the new cam chain.
(08-10-21, 08:54 AM)Gnasher link Wrote:
Don't attempt it unless you are confident of your ability, have somewhere undercover, out of the wind to do it and have all the required tools and parts.Male sure any slack is at the back, if you got any at the front the timing is out and you run the risk of wrecking the motor.
I've done a fair bit of research and I'm confident that if I take it slow I can work it out. The main things that I will be focusing on are
- Cam cap removal and installation - ensuring not to bend cam shafts from the forces applied by compressed valve springs.
I think the sequence for this is outlined in the Haynes manual.
- Timing - lining up all datum marks & ensuring there's no slack between crank and exhaust cam gear.
This makes sense because the CCT is between the intake cam gear and the crankshaft.
I'll turn the crank over a few times at the end to ensure timing datum still line up.
- Rivet link installation
- Keeping mated surfaces together