26-04-21, 09:11 PM
(This post was last modified: 26-04-21, 09:29 PM by fazersharp.)
My experience with sharp halls south terrace is that in order to have any chance of the cement between slabs lasting and not coming out from freezing and movement is that you have to put it in wet and not dry dust. You also have to actually have a big enough gap to get it down there.
Then you have the problem of making a mess of the top of the next slab.
Its OCD but I mask the edges with bodge tape on the slab, keeps it clean. I also mix waterproofer in the mix and my latest experiment last year was to add fibre glass strands to the mix and then paint on tile grout waterproofer /sealer painstakingly along every join.
So apart from that I would recommend a slab that has very straight smooth edges so that you can but them up tightly without any gaps at all between them, stops ants and weeds.
Another one on weeds is no matter what barrier you have under ~ the weeds will take hold from above.
[/size[size=1em]]https://www.wickes.co.uk/Sika-Cim-No-Cra...g/p/154064https://www.toolstation.com/everbuild-20...gLnsfD_BwE⁶[/size]
Then you have the problem of making a mess of the top of the next slab.
Its OCD but I mask the edges with bodge tape on the slab, keeps it clean. I also mix waterproofer in the mix and my latest experiment last year was to add fibre glass strands to the mix and then paint on tile grout waterproofer /sealer painstakingly along every join.
So apart from that I would recommend a slab that has very straight smooth edges so that you can but them up tightly without any gaps at all between them, stops ants and weeds.
Another one on weeds is no matter what barrier you have under ~ the weeds will take hold from above.
[/size[size=1em]]https://www.wickes.co.uk/Sika-Cim-No-Cra...g/p/154064https://www.toolstation.com/everbuild-20...gLnsfD_BwE⁶[/size]
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.