21-06-20, 10:52 PM
It's been almost a year since I posted in this thread last, but I wanted to update it.
My bodge fix of using a bit of plastic milk carton to shim the LCD display worked for a while, but it started to work loose and the display began to flicker again.
So, since I'm doing a whole lot of other work during the Lockdown, I decided to have another look at this.
Firstly I found that, to remove the rubber "plug" that holds the wires that go into the back of the instrument cluster, it was a simple matter of using a flat bladed screwdriver to gently press down on the edge of it and squeeze it towards the centre and you can then start to push it under the edge of the hole that's cut on the back of the cluster.
Once you've done that, you can slip the wires and plastic connectors through the back of the cluster and get it out of the way entirely which makes access a lot easier.
Having done that, and having taken out the numbered screws which hold the circuit board to the front of the cluster, I connected it back on to the wires and started pressing around the edges to find where it would give a steady display again.
Looking at the back of the circuit board I could see assorted mounting clips (arrowed) which are basically just metal "hooks" (sort of) which, when twisted, hold the circuit board and display together.
Apparently the display is not permanently connected or soldered to the circuit board, it's just an "induction coupling", ie it relies on two parts being pressed together and, presumably, over time, the "hooks" had come a little loose so it wasn't pressing firmly enough.
I gave the hooks a gentle tweak with pliers and now the display seems to be working fine again :thumbup
I would re-iterate my warning from above, that this seemed to work for me, but if you do this and it all goes horribly wrong, please don't blame me
My bodge fix of using a bit of plastic milk carton to shim the LCD display worked for a while, but it started to work loose and the display began to flicker again.
So, since I'm doing a whole lot of other work during the Lockdown, I decided to have another look at this.
Firstly I found that, to remove the rubber "plug" that holds the wires that go into the back of the instrument cluster, it was a simple matter of using a flat bladed screwdriver to gently press down on the edge of it and squeeze it towards the centre and you can then start to push it under the edge of the hole that's cut on the back of the cluster.
Once you've done that, you can slip the wires and plastic connectors through the back of the cluster and get it out of the way entirely which makes access a lot easier.
Having done that, and having taken out the numbered screws which hold the circuit board to the front of the cluster, I connected it back on to the wires and started pressing around the edges to find where it would give a steady display again.
Looking at the back of the circuit board I could see assorted mounting clips (arrowed) which are basically just metal "hooks" (sort of) which, when twisted, hold the circuit board and display together.
Apparently the display is not permanently connected or soldered to the circuit board, it's just an "induction coupling", ie it relies on two parts being pressed together and, presumably, over time, the "hooks" had come a little loose so it wasn't pressing firmly enough.
I gave the hooks a gentle tweak with pliers and now the display seems to be working fine again :thumbup
I would re-iterate my warning from above, that this seemed to work for me, but if you do this and it all goes horribly wrong, please don't blame me