sharing an experience

[butthead]

[quote author=butthead link=topic=26267.msg316562#msg316562 date=1592557119]
[quote author=darrsi link=topic=26267.msg316545#msg316545 date=1592541472]
Out of curiosity, would you know if you have an original sump plug on the bike?
The reason i ask is because a lot of aftermarket sump plugs, like the magnetic ones for example are shorter with less threads, and will feel like they are cross threading almost immediately when you go to tighten them up if the sump thread has been damaged or weakened by over tightening.


If somebody has decided to change the sump plug just because of the magnetic option, then that "may" be the issue. Just a thought.


OEM plugs are longer in length and even though you don't need all the threads they somehow do tighten up much more convincingly.
I have tried this myself so it is from personal experience.
Because of the position these plugs are in a torque wrench normally isn't an option but they only need nipping up by hand anyway.


I did end up getting a replacement OEM sump plug as the magnetic one just didn't feel right and the new one nipped up fine and has never leaked.
Maybe the threads are simply better on the OEM plugs and it appreciated them being new?

actually this was the cause of the problem in the first place, using one of those short thread mag bolts.  now after the event i know you need less torque on these because they are shorter threads,  therefore same force over a smaller thread size amplifies the stress on the threads and hence i stripped the threads that otherwise was fine on the longer OEM bolt.
also its very dificult as we all know to access the sump bolt with anything other than a ring or open end spanner, so diffcult to know what force you are applying .  personally 40nm is too much i think, thats what i was trying to emulate by hand ?
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Have you replaced the bolt for an OEM one?




yes once the mag bolt didnt feel right, removed it  put back old OEM on, new washer, did it up as much as i dared and decided to leave it alone, once its stripped its only going to get worse taking on/off.    ultimatley id prefer a new pan and bolt but that isnt going to happen with the rusty header studs and nuts on the exhaust, so this is how it will stay now, but as i have found an alternative way to oil change and adopting gnashers version , its fine really. the advantage of sucking out with a pump is you can put the old oil straight into a contaner via pump pipe rather than a messy drain tray that you end up having to have the side stand sitting in too ,plus emptying the drain tray cleanly, so in a way its a better way than normal.
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