(21-01-20, 01:54 PM)Jules-C link Wrote: Changing from conventional antifreeze to new organic acid long life antifreeze can cause deposits to form and these collect in the narrow carb heater pipes.
Who told you that :rollin OAT has been around for almost 40yrs. All brought on by the need of the car/lorry/bus industry to standardise antifreeze world wide, increase corrosion protection and the increasing use of aluminium heads and iron/steel blocks, still very common in cars/lorries/buses, due to the cost of all aluminium engines. Iron and steel corroded different rates and ways to aluminium, the latter pretty much dissolves. OAT (non silicate organic) these are mostly orange or yellow, some are blue provide increase life (typically 5yrs) and IAT (silicate) green, blue and red, its the green and blue you'll find in most Jap bikes (2yrs). They can be mixed with themselves, tests show mixing results in slightly more corrosion than keeping them separate. Lastly you've got HOAT or Hybrid OAT these are a mix of silicates and organics, these OAT/HOAT are mostly used by the car/lorry/bus world, most bikes still use IAT.
As I mentioned earlier this life thing, in my opinion/experience I take with a pinch of salt, whats more important is to test the antifreeze % and only top up with antifreeze. When I say top up that should be like almost never for a healthy engine, if you loosing coolant something is wrong! I bought my 99 model in 2000, sold it 2011, it had the same antifreeze in it from the factory still in % levels, I can't remember ever topping it up, just testing.
Biggest killer is wrong type water (don't use tap water or softened) and not keeping the 50/50% mix, both will induce corrosion and or degrade the antifreeze protection.
Later