06-09-18, 04:06 PM
oh well, unlucky for both of us.
2 bits of advice when installing the R6 shock ( you can take or leave it, it just improves the install, not absolutely essential ) :
1. Buy the R6 bottom bolt and nut. You need the nut because its an M10 on this bolt, compared to M8 on the Fazer bolt which is stepped down. I recommend the R6 bolt because its shoulder is longer to match the thicker alloy fork arms on the shock. If you use the fazer bolt, it doesn't fully support both sides of the shock fork which causes a twisting effect on the shock over time.
2. You will find that the R6 top mounting is not a wide as the fazer one. If you fit the R6 shock and torque up the mounting bolt to 40nm you risk crushing the frame mounting points together, such that you can't get the fazer shock back in if you ever want to sell the R6 shock ( guess how I know this ). I suggest you put a washer either side of the R6 top eye when you fit it ( its a very fiddly exercise but worth it )
2 bits of advice when installing the R6 shock ( you can take or leave it, it just improves the install, not absolutely essential ) :
1. Buy the R6 bottom bolt and nut. You need the nut because its an M10 on this bolt, compared to M8 on the Fazer bolt which is stepped down. I recommend the R6 bolt because its shoulder is longer to match the thicker alloy fork arms on the shock. If you use the fazer bolt, it doesn't fully support both sides of the shock fork which causes a twisting effect on the shock over time.
2. You will find that the R6 top mounting is not a wide as the fazer one. If you fit the R6 shock and torque up the mounting bolt to 40nm you risk crushing the frame mounting points together, such that you can't get the fazer shock back in if you ever want to sell the R6 shock ( guess how I know this ). I suggest you put a washer either side of the R6 top eye when you fit it ( its a very fiddly exercise but worth it )