This is from Pat's site that I linked to earlier, it's quite explicit in stating that you should turn the ignition on and then off to allow for the servo to move the valve to the correct location before making any adjustments;
[color=rgb(8, 32, 128)]Underneath the cover is the Exhaust Valve pulley. It is controlled by two cables. The free play in each cable should not exceed 1.5 mm (0.06 in.). That 1.5 mm is free slack, movement without any pressure at all, not as far as you can push it. Mine were very loose. The 'fork' in the pulley should line up over the hole as shown. If it does not then it may be 30 degrees or more advanced. Turn the ignition ON then OFF. The pulley fork should now be aligned over the hole. If the pulley is not lined up over the hole then the cables are very likely improperly adjusted beyond the tension adjustment. You should loosen both cables until you can manually rotate the pulley until it lines up over the hole (see below how to loosen the cables.) You should do the ignition ON then OFF sequence again to make sure the servo motor is properly zeroed. Then proceed with the tension adjustment.
[color=rgb(8, 32, 128)]Underneath the cover is the Exhaust Valve pulley. It is controlled by two cables. The free play in each cable should not exceed 1.5 mm (0.06 in.). That 1.5 mm is free slack, movement without any pressure at all, not as far as you can push it. Mine were very loose. The 'fork' in the pulley should line up over the hole as shown. If it does not then it may be 30 degrees or more advanced. Turn the ignition ON then OFF. The pulley fork should now be aligned over the hole. If the pulley is not lined up over the hole then the cables are very likely improperly adjusted beyond the tension adjustment. You should loosen both cables until you can manually rotate the pulley until it lines up over the hole (see below how to loosen the cables.) You should do the ignition ON then OFF sequence again to make sure the servo motor is properly zeroed. Then proceed with the tension adjustment.