31-03-17, 05:28 PM
(This post was last modified: 31-03-17, 06:42 PM by tommyardin.)
[size=1em]Fazerider,[/size]
[size=1em]I often wonder if one of the problems with the sprocket nut coming undone could be down to a poorly maintained chain, dry graunchy old links that strains to bend tight to go round the small front sprocket and all this happening at an incredible high speed, whether it could causes an effect a bit like a hammer drill/heavy vibration on the sprocket gradually shaking the the damn thing to bits. One indication of that could be vibration in the front footrests.[/size]
[size=1em]Slappy,[/size]
[size=1em]Thanks for the link it makes interesting reading and puts a new slant on torque and how to apply it and the effects of different lubes on torqued fasteners.[/size]
[size=1em]But does the premise still hold then? [/size]
[size=1em]That a torque wrench set to XNm will only apply XNm before the torque wrench breakaway point, no matter if it is lubed or not? Because it seems logical that the force of XNm is XNm whether lube is applied or not, its just that the passage to XNm is easier because the lube overcomes friction, because if it is not then I need to rethink all I have ever understood about applied forces. [/size]
[size=1em]Thanks for the contributions guys :thumbup [/size]
[size=1em]I think its all a bit academic in some ways, because i hear some saying never ever apply Loctite to the front sprocket nut because you you really, really struggle to get it undone again. Then I hear people say they always apply Loctite to all their brake fixings, disk bolts and caliper bolts, one guy said to me that he applies Loctite to the pinch bolt on his front axle, that seems like a nightmare waiting to happen if you get a puncture in the front tyre miles from anywhere, is that Loctited allan screw going to come out?[/size]
[size=1em]I am aware that you are hardly likely to snap off a steel bolt in the fork leg (Mudguard Mounts) but you could strip out the softer alloy threads in the leg because of Loctie, in some ways the first situation would be better if the bolt did shear at least you would have the option of drilling out the sheared bolt and cleaning the thread with a tapered and then a plug tap, but the threads being pulled out of the fork leg would be a different proposition, it would mean a Helicoil or a new fork leg.[/size]
[size=1em]I know that I will continue to apply a dab of Copper Slip to the nuts and bolts that are removed on a regular basis for maintenance.[/size]
[size=1em]I have reached a grand old age now and have never had a bolt come out, or, even loose because of lube applied to threads and when I do need to remove the there is a better chance of not snapping or stripping threads, Steel Sparkers in alloy heads certainly benefit from a dab of copper slip, I have heard many times that guys have sheared off sparkers trying to get them undone.[/size]
[size=1em]Sorry for my long dissertation, I know it winds up some on here, but I guess the answer is don't read it.[/size]
[size=1em]Cheers guys :guitar [/size]
[size=1em]I often wonder if one of the problems with the sprocket nut coming undone could be down to a poorly maintained chain, dry graunchy old links that strains to bend tight to go round the small front sprocket and all this happening at an incredible high speed, whether it could causes an effect a bit like a hammer drill/heavy vibration on the sprocket gradually shaking the the damn thing to bits. One indication of that could be vibration in the front footrests.[/size]
[size=1em]Slappy,[/size]
[size=1em]Thanks for the link it makes interesting reading and puts a new slant on torque and how to apply it and the effects of different lubes on torqued fasteners.[/size]
[size=1em]But does the premise still hold then? [/size]
[size=1em]That a torque wrench set to XNm will only apply XNm before the torque wrench breakaway point, no matter if it is lubed or not? Because it seems logical that the force of XNm is XNm whether lube is applied or not, its just that the passage to XNm is easier because the lube overcomes friction, because if it is not then I need to rethink all I have ever understood about applied forces. [/size]
[size=1em]Thanks for the contributions guys :thumbup [/size]
[size=1em]I think its all a bit academic in some ways, because i hear some saying never ever apply Loctite to the front sprocket nut because you you really, really struggle to get it undone again. Then I hear people say they always apply Loctite to all their brake fixings, disk bolts and caliper bolts, one guy said to me that he applies Loctite to the pinch bolt on his front axle, that seems like a nightmare waiting to happen if you get a puncture in the front tyre miles from anywhere, is that Loctited allan screw going to come out?[/size]
[size=1em]I am aware that you are hardly likely to snap off a steel bolt in the fork leg (Mudguard Mounts) but you could strip out the softer alloy threads in the leg because of Loctie, in some ways the first situation would be better if the bolt did shear at least you would have the option of drilling out the sheared bolt and cleaning the thread with a tapered and then a plug tap, but the threads being pulled out of the fork leg would be a different proposition, it would mean a Helicoil or a new fork leg.[/size]
[size=1em]I know that I will continue to apply a dab of Copper Slip to the nuts and bolts that are removed on a regular basis for maintenance.[/size]
[size=1em]I have reached a grand old age now and have never had a bolt come out, or, even loose because of lube applied to threads and when I do need to remove the there is a better chance of not snapping or stripping threads, Steel Sparkers in alloy heads certainly benefit from a dab of copper slip, I have heard many times that guys have sheared off sparkers trying to get them undone.[/size]
[size=1em]Sorry for my long dissertation, I know it winds up some on here, but I guess the answer is don't read it.[/size]
[size=1em]Cheers guys :guitar [/size]