29-03-17, 08:43 AM
Just read this feature about penetrating oil and it seems that a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF is the best thing to use. Anyone on here tried it?
Recently an article was passed along to me from Machinist Workshop Magazine.
They tested some commercially available penetrating oils on a group of nuts & bolts they had scientifically rusted to a uniform degree in a salt water solution.
The fasteners were treated with a variety of commercially available penetrants and the measured torque required to loosen them was recorded.
The break out torque required for:
Nothing = 516 ft. lbs.
WD-40 = 238 ft. lbs.
PB Blaster = 214 ft. lbs.
Liquid Wrench = 127 ft. lbs.
Kano Kroil = 106 ft. lbs.
50/50 blend of ATF and Acetone = 50 ft. lbs.
edit:
It was pointed out that this was a topic a few months ago, so I read through that thread and did notice someone also recommended GM 1052627 heat valve/EGR lube and I have personally used a similar Mopar EGR product for years that works very well but it is definitly more costly then used ATF and Acetone.
And a final note on shop safety and penetrating fluids:
I was spraying some exhaust bolts on an engine that wasn't running but was warm, when the penetrant hit the bolts it evaporated a bit. The fumes drifted my way and even though I was wearing safety glasses I got some residue in one eye. Flushed the eye for about 20 mins, it remained blurry and irritated so I headed to the emergency room.
Brought the can along and the doctor about feel over when he read all the solvents that were in it, long story short, 3 hour eye flush on some hospital machine to get the ph normal in my eye socket.