30-01-17, 02:37 PM
(30-01-17, 07:36 AM)darrsi link Wrote: [quote author=tommyardin link=topic=21736.msg251107#msg251107 date=1485698091]
[quote author=fazersharp link=topic=21736.msg251101#msg251101 date=1485692378]
Nail varnish as a thread lock - it may work but I would of thought that it is too brittle whereas the locktite I believe has bit of elasticity with it.
I have some blue locktite but that is not the recommended one read it all here http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=14924.0
The recommended one is 620 and is very expensive
Cheers Sharpie,
I just read the posts in the link you put up.
So many people are saying don't tighten the nut up to 90Nm and don't use Loctite, how come so many guys know so much more that Yamaha do about a piece of machinery that Yamaha designed and produced.
It seems the Butcher The Baker and The Candlestick makers are all qualified to help you fuck up you motorcycle, by giving you their knowledgeable and poor thought out opinions and reasons.
I think I will listen to Yamaha and their expert advice and give Brian who works in the kitchen department at B&Q a miss.
If I want to know about kitchen taps I will ask Brian, because Yamaha know fuck all about kitchen taps.
I have a new front sprocket to go on my old girl in the next week or so, I have also purchased some Loctite, as I also have not followed Yamaha's advice, because i used nail varnish instead of the proper stuff.
Cleanliness is a thing to remember when fitting the sprocket nut, make sure everything in contact with the nut, washer, sprocket and gearbox face is clean and tighten it up to the recommended torque using the recommended Loctite 620, also check and re-check again that the tab washer is indeed located in the output shaft splines, and double flat the the sides of the tab washer against the nut with a tight snug fit.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/122034038914
Loctite 620 is pricey (See Link above)
I would be a little hesitant about buying this stuff from Hong Kong or China.
Some of the sales of the stuff on evilBay look like they are being sent from Australia as the prices are marked up in Aus $ dollars, but with a closer look they are being posted from China or Hong Kong, seems a bit deceitful to me.
I know there is no real 100% sure-fire way of knowing that you are getting the real stuff, as there is so much fake stuff out their, ranging from Motor products to shampoo.
There is an old saying 'If a deal seems to good to be true>>>>> blah blah blah'
The link above are UK based Seller, their feedback is good and their price seems about normal.
The first picture is ideal, the second picture is a No No, because it will allow the nut to rock/rotate under the immense power of the drive and will slowly hammer the washer flats back down as it snatches as the power goes on, the other thing is use the proper washer and not a bit of thick grey paper like I used. :lol
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Hold on a sec Tommy, it's Yamaha that created this problem in the the first place, nobody else!
So if you think that there's a reasonable chance that a nut isn't going to correctly tighten on to a thread the way it really should then you surely must understand peoples apprehension of the chance of over tightening and fecking things up even further, then opening up a world of pain.
The fact that if a 9mm wide nut officially needs 70Nm, it would seem perfectly plausible to me that a similar threaded nut but with a few more threads and made 3mm wider would only be a plus, even at the same torque?
So even though they've suggested 90Nm, i can't see a problem in tightening it just a bit more to 80Nm. It's still 10Nm more than before and with a wider area to lock down. Adding a bit of Loctite as suggested will obviously only help further, but in reality these are attempts at fixing a problem that Yamaha caused which really shouldn't exist, especially when it involves a moving and weight bearing part.
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That's very true that this issues was caused by Yamaha in the first place.
Yamaha put their hands up to that fault and have replaced free of charge the 9 mm nut with a 12 mm nut when bikes went in for a service or maintenance and according to what I have heard repaired bikes that have been damaged by this faulty part. Now this process can only go on for a certain period as the last of these machines FZS600 were produced 14 years ago, the replacement parts are still available directly from Yamaha and i have been told if you make a fuss they will post the parts to you free of charge to just to keep the piece, to get you off their back.
So many vehicles get recalls on them because of faults and the manufactures for the best part do their level best to rectify the situation and that is exactly what Yamaha have done tried their best to rectify it buy producing a replacement part the 12 mm nut, and have given instructions on how to fit the part that their engineers have come up with.
So it would still seem to me to be folly to ignore their instructions as they will have spent a lot of time wanting to get it right as they could not afford for this to crop up again, and pick torque figures out of the sky is just folly