30-04-16, 06:03 PM
(This post was last modified: 30-04-16, 06:06 PM by tommyardin.)
Looking at the photos that Chris has submitted I would be really concerned (unless they are really really poor quality pics) the treads on the shaft look almost non existent as do the threads on the old Nut that is balanced on his knee in the pics (Not that the nut matters as its being replaced) but the shaft really is important, it's a fine thread anyway and it should be torqued up to 94 Km. :eek :eek :eek
Really clean that thread properly (Meth or trichloroethylene) so there in no sigh of any oil, grease or dirt on the shaft thread and the same with[size=1em] the nut (I know is a new nut) as there may be cutting oil on it from where it was factory threaded, use lock tight on the thread and be generous with it, torque setting should factory recommendation 94Kn, but if the thread are as worn as they look in the pics I would be concerned about torquing up that high for fear of stripping the threads off the shaft, bend the new washer over at least two flats of the nut.[/size]
[size=1em]someone mentioned Locite superglue in one of the posts but the only problem with that is it may set before the nut is really tight giving a false torque setting.[/size]
[size=1em]It seems with all the reading that I have done on the web and in here that it is really really important to get this right otherwise it is a huge expense[/size] correcting it if it goes tits up on you.
I hasten to add I am only talking from reading up and not personal experience, as, I have yet to manage to get the fucking nut undone on my :faz .
But I have had a couple of great ideas how to accomplish this from friendly foccers in here.
I have not written the above to be an ogre or someone full of doom and gloom, but a :faz [size=1em] is to nice a bike to be shagged by a stupid loose nut and sprocket.[/size]
[size=1em]Best way to find out if a chain is past its sell by date is to compress/push about 10 links together measure it between the centre of two extreme link pins, then stretch it out and measure it again if it is any more that about 8mm/5/16" longer its time to change it, a broken chain will get you off quicker than a 22 year old pole dancer.[/size] :lol
[size=1em]Buy yourself a can of chain lube its much cheaper than changing chains and sprockets, I know a lot of guys brush their chains with used engine oil and I sure it lubes the chain fine, but only for as long as it stays on the chain, a quick thrash through the lanes and most of it is on you back wheel rim. I personally like the Motul chain lube is stays dark when dry and sticks like s--t to a blanket, it also means no dirty rear wheel and less chance of an inconvenient broken chain. [/size]
[size=1em]And this cat thinks I'm fucking stupid. [/size]
Really clean that thread properly (Meth or trichloroethylene) so there in no sigh of any oil, grease or dirt on the shaft thread and the same with[size=1em] the nut (I know is a new nut) as there may be cutting oil on it from where it was factory threaded, use lock tight on the thread and be generous with it, torque setting should factory recommendation 94Kn, but if the thread are as worn as they look in the pics I would be concerned about torquing up that high for fear of stripping the threads off the shaft, bend the new washer over at least two flats of the nut.[/size]
[size=1em]someone mentioned Locite superglue in one of the posts but the only problem with that is it may set before the nut is really tight giving a false torque setting.[/size]
[size=1em]It seems with all the reading that I have done on the web and in here that it is really really important to get this right otherwise it is a huge expense[/size] correcting it if it goes tits up on you.
I hasten to add I am only talking from reading up and not personal experience, as, I have yet to manage to get the fucking nut undone on my :faz .
But I have had a couple of great ideas how to accomplish this from friendly foccers in here.
I have not written the above to be an ogre or someone full of doom and gloom, but a :faz [size=1em] is to nice a bike to be shagged by a stupid loose nut and sprocket.[/size]
[size=1em]Best way to find out if a chain is past its sell by date is to compress/push about 10 links together measure it between the centre of two extreme link pins, then stretch it out and measure it again if it is any more that about 8mm/5/16" longer its time to change it, a broken chain will get you off quicker than a 22 year old pole dancer.[/size] :lol
[size=1em]Buy yourself a can of chain lube its much cheaper than changing chains and sprockets, I know a lot of guys brush their chains with used engine oil and I sure it lubes the chain fine, but only for as long as it stays on the chain, a quick thrash through the lanes and most of it is on you back wheel rim. I personally like the Motul chain lube is stays dark when dry and sticks like s--t to a blanket, it also means no dirty rear wheel and less chance of an inconvenient broken chain. [/size]
[size=1em]And this cat thinks I'm fucking stupid. [/size]